11 reasons not to buy a vintage car–and why you should ignore all of them

Carl
By Carl Heideman
Apr 23, 2023 | Classic Car, vintage car | Posted in Shop Work , News and Notes | From the Oct. 2012 issue | Never miss an article

Photography by GRM Staff

[Editor's note: This article originally appeared in the October 2012 issue of Grassroots Motorsports.]

You grew up on a steady diet of front-drive Hondas, 5.0 Mustangs and force-fed Subarus, but you suddenly find yourself attracted to machines from another era—a time defined by chrome bumpers, bias-ply tires, ignition systems featuring moving parts, and mythical devices known as carburetors. 

Your attraction makes little sense. Why trade reliability, comfort and even performance for something that needs constant attention, can’t outrun a minivan, and drops rust and oil in nearly every parking space? 

Because classics are cool. Every trip will be a memorable adventure, whether it’s across state lines to visit friends or down to the corner store. 

Thinking about trading your Miata for an MGB or your Toyota for a Triumph? Be warned that older cars have their own idiosyncrasies, but it’s nothing our forefathers couldn’t handle. You can do it. 

They Have Rusty Gas Tanks

One major cause of carburetor problems comes from outside of it: After 40 or 50 years of service life, don’t be surprised to find rust or dirt in the tank.

Today's solution:

While the fix used to be cleaning followed by using slushing/sealing compounds, we’re finding that today’s ethanol-blended fuels will dissolve these magic chemicals sooner or later. A new tank—figure a few hundred dollars, depending on application—may make more sense.

[Can a sealer kit really save a rusty, 50-year-old gas tank? | KBS Coatings test]

They Have Ignition Points

Not only do our modern cars not have points, but many don’t have distributors at all. In classics, breaker points controlled ignition timing. These are little spring-loaded devices found inside the distributor. Points were not perfect, though: Over time they would get dirty, fall out of adjustment, or simply get mad at the world. Additionally, other moving parts in the distributors would wear and cause their own maddening problems. 

Today's solution:

The PerTronix Ignitor, a solid-state, self-contained electronic points replacement unit, has pretty much become part of the standard operating procedure for older cars. More than 300 applications are available, and it’s a quick install.

In some cases, it also makes sense to get a completely new aftermarket distributor from the likes of Crane or MSD or have the original unit totally rebuilt by a specialist like Advanced Distributors. Carry your old distributor in the trunk, though, as the replacement still isn’t immune to wear. 

They Have No Power

Power brakes, power steering, power seats, power mirrors, power antennas and powerful engines are, for the most part, things that classics don’t have. You’re also going to have a tough time finding a/c, and ABS simply didn’t exist back then. 

Today's solution:

The good news is there’s less stuff to break, and there’s more room in the engine bay. More good news: The lack of this extra equipment will allow you to feel more connected to the driving experience. The bad news: Some say the experience is a bit more on the agricultural side of things. 

They Need to be Tuned

Modern cars have computers and sensors constantly checking the combustion quality and adjusting spark advance, valve timing and fuel pressure as necessary. Classics rely on drivers to listen to the engine, read spark plugs, and use their hands to dial fuel delivery and ignition back in.

Today's solution:

Honestly, if the carb and distributor are in good shape, a car shouldn’t need attention more than once every 5000 miles or so. However, if the car sees limited use and parts have a chance to gum up from old fuel or corrode from stagnation, more frequent tuning may be necessary.

They Have Carburetors and Chokes

If distributors aren’t trouble enough, let’s add the carburetor to the mix. Until the 1980s, most cars had them. Most were single- or multi-venturi, float-type units from Holley, Weber, Solex or Carter. A butterfly choke—sometimes manually operated—aided the starting procedure. 

Many British cars came with SU carburetors, and we admit that they’re a different beast. They might look a little funny, but they work—well enough for Rolls-Royce and countless SCCA championships, in fact. Like all mechanical devices, though, any carburetor will wear with use.

Today's solution:

If you’ve got SU or Stromberg, get to know Joe Curto. He is the Jedi Master when it comes to these carbs and has all the parts you’ll ever need. If you’ve got—or want—Webers, talk to Pierce Manifolds

And when you’re deep into trying to resolve your problems, remember two related tech tips we learned long ago: Most supposed carburetor problems are really ignition problems. And most real carb problems are caused by worn throttle shafts or vacuum leaks—a shot of carb cleaner will quickly tell you whether or not you have a vacuum leak somewhere. 

They Leak Oil

If you park a modern car in your friend’s driveway, no one will know you’d been there. But if you park your classic in the same spot, your car will leave its mark. 

Today's solution:

Classics leak—some even leaked on the dealers’ floors. Don’t be surprised if your classic leaves a 2- or 3-inch spot of oil on the garage floor after each drive. If the leaks get bigger than that, you can make them smaller with new seals. We’ll be honest, though: You’ll go crazy trying to stop all of them. Call it the nature of the beast. 

They Like Different Oil

Remember that “motor oil is motor oil” commercial? That was standard procedure back in the day. Lately, though, to improve emissions, most commercially available oils have dropped their levels of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate or ZDDP. 

What’s the result? Depending on who you ask, these decreased zinc levels have played havoc on the flat tappet camshafts found in older cars. Additionally, today’s cars run on thinner oils like 5W30 or 0W30, while classics called for thicker formulations like 20W50 or straight 40. 

Today's solution:

Specialized, high-zinc oils aimed at older engines have been released by Joe Gibbs Driven, Brad Penn, Valvoline and others. Red Line’s synthetic oils also contain high levels of zinc.

[Ask an Oil Expert: Industry Specialists Set the Record Straight on Motor Oil for Classic Cars]

They Have Scavenger-Hunt Tires

Need tires for your Lancer Evo? Easy. But what about an MGB, Triumph Spitfire or Fiat X1/9? The sad truth is that small, sporty tires have become increasingly difficult to find.

Today's solution:

Before ordering those upsized wheels, check out the Vredestein Sprint Classic. It’s a modern radial that features period-correct looks and comes in vintage sizes. Coker Tire and Universal Vintage Tire Co. both carry Vredestein tires as well as other brands that offer new rubber created from old molds. If a street-legal race tire works for you, Toyo and Nitto still offer 13- and 14-inch sizes.

[Ultimate track tire guide | 200tw, 100tw, street-legal track and R-comps]

They’ve Been “Fixed” Before

If you’ve read this far, you’ve figured out that a classic car has likely had its hood opened more often than a modern car. There’s a pretty good chance someone has made a repair using just Vise-Grips, a brick and some bailing wire. 

Today's solution:

These past “fixes” will now be your problem. Not only do you have to undo the “fix,” but you’ll still have to solve the original problem. It sounds frustrating, but it’s really part of the fun, so get used to it. Join a club, make some new friends, and learn more about these great cars. 

Worried about wiring woes—especially on older British cars? It’s usually a past “fix” that’s to blame, and fortunately, brand-new wiring harnesses can be purchased. Hint: Check British Wiring

They Rust

Classics don’t only suffer from rusty gas tanks; these cars can rust in other places, too. We know you're shocked to hear that. 

Why all the rust? Well, for one, older steel is usually rustier than newer steel, right? Also, these classics weren’t treated to all the rust inhibitors newer cars have been blessed with. Thanks to advances in technology, newer cars, despite living in the rust belt, can usually fend off rust for at least a decade. Older cars often acquired rust by the third or fourth year. 

Today's solution:

The proper fix usually involves welding in patch panels and a fresh coat of paint. Luckily, there is a wide aftermarket supporting these types of repairs. Need a fender or repair for a 45-year-old classic? It’s probably in production. Some caveats, though: The cost of repair might very well exceed the value of the car, and not all modern repair panels are created equal—some are excellent, while others will require some fiddling. 

 

They Attract Attention and Storytellers

This is it—the big one: When you park your Impreza, Civic or Escort at the supermarket lot, it’s just another car in a field of shoeboxes, minivans and stupid SUVs. But when you park your classic in the same spot, people are going to talk to you—and you’re going to leave a small puddle of oil, remember.

They’ll ask you what year it is, how long you’ve owned it, and where you buy parts. Then they’ll tell you that they had one like it, or their crazy Uncle Tim had one but only drove it once, or that they came home from the hospital in one when they were born. 

And then you’ll know why you’ve gone classic. These cars are much more about the interactions they deliver than the performance they offer. 

If you just want to go fast and cut the perfect apex, then maybe a modern car is for you. If you want a little more, like getting your hands dirty and enjoying the total experience, think about a classic.

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Comments
VegasNick
VegasNick GRM+ Memberand Reader
7/26/22 12:25 p.m.

Whoaaa! I can't believe you guys dissed points! JUust have to learn care and feeding of them! :) 

Great article. 

wspohn
wspohn SuperDork
7/26/22 1:01 p.m.

I have fixed a vintage car that had the points close down, using a matchbook cover found on the side of the road and a screwdriver (I always carry a small tool kit - and when  remember, spare ignition bits too).  If I had been in one of my modern cars, the only tool that would have done me any good is a cell phone to call a tow truck.  And we were out in the boonies outside of Alturas California at the time so the truck wouldn't have come soon!

 

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/26/22 1:07 p.m.

In reply to wspohn :

If you'd been in a car with a modern ignition system, you wouldn't have had a points failure :)

triumph7
triumph7 HalfDork
7/26/22 2:00 p.m.
Keith Tanner said:

In reply to wspohn :

If you'd been in a car with a modern ignition system, you wouldn't have had a points failure :)

But after an EMF hit the car with the points will still be running.

frenchyd
frenchyd MegaDork
7/26/22 2:05 p.m.

In reply to Keith Tanner :You are probably right.  Some electronic wiz bang failed and it's deep inside something you can't even see.  
   So go ahead and call the tow truck. To be hauled to someplace that doesn't have the part in stock but can get shipped overnight for only $45 extra.  Except that really won't be the problem.  Just the parts replacers best guess. 
  Just relax, you'll be there a while while he keeps denting your card with his guesses. 

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/26/22 2:13 p.m.

In reply to frenchyd :

No, the modern car doesn't break down because it doesn't have short term consumables in a critical system. There are no points, so the points cannot fail.

What's better, frequent breakdowns with easy fixes or far less frequent breakdowns with more difficult fixes? And a car that can actually TELL you what is wrong? When the #1 coil went bad (overheated due to a poorly placed heatshield) on my rally car right when I was finishing a stage, I didn't have to guess which of the 8 coils it was because the car told me. So I replaced that one coil and the car was fixed for the next stage. 

SPG123
SPG123 HalfDork
7/26/22 4:58 p.m.

Well then, And only because I live this every day...

If you add up the real money that you spend on stuff to fix/maintain your old cars every month it will probably be equal or greater to the payment on a genuinely nice newer car. And if you are like me I now have enough clunky old vehicles to "need" a truck and trailer. Said truck and trailer have to be capable enough of long distance hauls without killing teenage sons. So no skimping there.  Oh and the stuff required for that. winch, tools, straps, insurance, thousands of dollars for constant feeding of said teenage sons... And a gas card to feed the new large rig. And a place to put it.

Your home will no longer be full of old car parts and parts cars required to maintain said fleet of constantly deteriorating old vehicles. You may even use a room for its intended purpose.  

You may have time to do things like starting Microsoft II, getting an education with Doctorate or even becoming acquainted with your family instead of fixing old stuff, finding parts and hundreds of different chemicals and paints... for old stuff, looking at old stuff for old stuff, traveling many states away to get stuff for stuff to fill your house or traveling to dispose of stuff that you no longer need until you buy another and need it again. 

But like me, you will probably see some old hulk somewhere and it will make you smile. And you will "see" it finished in your mind. And none of the above will matter.

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/26/22 5:48 p.m.

I'd like to point out that I have many old cars, but they all have Pertronix Ignitors or equivalents :) Except the blue Cadillac, I should sort that out...

kb58
kb58 SuperDork
7/26/22 6:31 p.m.

My first car was a 1969 Chevy Impala, and I remember coasting to the side of the road, already thinking "I bet it's those points again." That time, the spring-loaded portion of it had become detached from its base, so no easy side-of-the-road fix. It was replaced by a "transistorized" (a very dated term now) points replacement thingy, and no more problems. So while we all moan and groan about how great the old days were, yeah, I have to side with Keith, that for what's basically a consumable, replacing points with electronics was a big win all around. Those of you planning or hoping for EOTWAWKI will have far bigger problems than the ignition not cutting out.

frenchyd
frenchyd MegaDork
7/26/22 7:27 p.m.
Keith Tanner said:

In reply to frenchyd :

No, the modern car doesn't break down because it doesn't have short term consumables in a critical system. There are no points, so the points cannot fail.

What's better, frequent breakdowns with easy fixes or far less frequent breakdowns with more difficult fixes? And a car that can actually TELL you what is wrong? When the #1 coil went bad (overheated due to a poorly placed heatshield) on my rally car right when I was finishing a stage, I didn't have to guess which of the 8 coils it was because the car told me. So I replaced that one coil and the car was fixed for the next stage. 

Oh gee,  all those Honda, Toyota, Nissan GM Ford etc dealers are just changing  everybody's oil?  The parts department only stocks oil filters and floor mats?   Those trucks that look a lot like tow trucks are bringing in those vehicles because the owners are too busy to drive them in?

 Sorry,  just having a little fun. 
        I know new cars are more reliable and in a lot of ways better  than old stuff.  But some people like old.  Old cars, old wood sailboats, old steam trains. Etc.   Old does not make things bad ( I sure hope not because Yesterday I got closer to the 3/4 century mark).   A lot of us think that manual transmissions are part of the experience  we don't need ( or want) electronic ignition.  
   We have pride in our skills, knowledge, talents.  Our vintage cars attract attention no modern car can. As much As I've pointed out Tesla's to my wife and she still fails to note them.   She and most people notice the different.  

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