Aeromoto wrote:
I wouldn't complain too much that it was an automatic. the 84-88 C4s suffered the indignity of the 4+3 manual transmission, which was a terrible contraption. I had an '85 with the 4+3, it was horrible.
Sorry to get this off of film and TV references and actually talk about cars, but more on the auto Vs. mtx. I've got a lot of time in a TPI auto C4 and I would say for a stock or near stock TPI engine the auto is the preferable trans over the 4+3 or the 6 speed. The L98 TPi engines only made 230-250hp depending on the year/cam/heads etc. but they all made 330-350lb/ft of torque and made it really really low down. That massive torque is ideally suited to an auto, these things punch way above their weight when accelerating away from corners at street or autocross speeds, they are immense fun and honestly 'feel' faster than LT1 or early LSx cars due to that massive slug of torque. Also the auto box is pretty good at kicking down and holding gears and they were early electronic controlled boxes so you can get them programed to suit. An L98 car is one of the few cars I would actually seek out and auto over an MTX.
The early C4s are great race car material, but as drivers they are horrible. The squeeks, rattles, bone jarring ride, and cheaply made interiors are down right gruesome to live with. If you're buying one as a driver, buy the newest C4 you can afford. they actually did refine the package quite a bit as years went on.
dculberson wrote: @MG Bryan: It depends; if it's a nice drivable car then the price is great. If it's trashed then it's not so good. Just because you bought one for $500 doesn't mean they're all worth $500!
See that a lot on other boards. Some guy buys a trashed example of a car for $400 from someone who doesn't know what he has/is desperate to move the car ASAP, therefore the guy asking $4000 for a pristine immaculate example with no time constraints is asking a ripoff price...
If all C4s were $1000 cars, I'd have one in a heartbeat. But... the rear suspension? Really? That's the worst part of the car. Even after rebuilding the rear diff, you get a ton of camber change just from the slop in the system because it uses the axles as suspension members, which also means the roll center is all out of whack with nothing you can do about it except stiffen it up so it doesn't move much...
Knurled wrote:
See that a lot on other boards. Some guy buys a trashed example of a car for $400 from someone who doesn't know what he has/is desperate to move the car ASAP, therefore the guy asking $4000 for a pristine immaculate example with no time constraints is asking a ripoff price...
Actually, I see that here more than anywhere else. I wish I had a line on some of the cheap cars people on this board seem to be able to find without a problem.
dculberson wrote:
This thread would be really confusing for someone that hadn't seen The Big Lebowski.
@MG Bryan: It depends; if it's a nice drivable car then the price is great. If it's trashed then it's not so good. Just because you bought one for $500 doesn't mean they're all worth $500!
I don't understand. I'm just trying to get a set of seats.
Knurled wrote:
dculberson wrote: @MG Bryan: It depends; if it's a nice drivable car then the price is great. If it's trashed then it's not so good. Just because you bought one for $500 doesn't mean they're all worth $500!
See that a lot on other boards. Some guy buys a trashed example of a car for $400 from someone who doesn't know what he has/is desperate to move the car ASAP, therefore the guy asking $4000 for a pristine immaculate example with no time constraints is asking a ripoff price...
If all C4s were $1000 cars, I'd have one in a heartbeat. But... the rear suspension? Really? That's the worst part of the car. Even after rebuilding the rear diff, you get a ton of camber change just from the slop in the system because it uses the axles as suspension members, which also means the roll center is all out of whack with nothing you can do about it except stiffen it up so it doesn't move much...
Change the bushings and you lose the "slop". The only Camber change I get now is when one wheel goes into a hole and the suspension drops 3" on that side.
The 4+3 isn't a bad trans if they were maintainted. Funky, heavy yes. But the T-10 part is strong as hell. I learnedto keep it in the "normal" range until I hit 4th, then clutch and engage the OD unit like 5th gear. works perfect.
"...I wish I had a line on some of the cheap cars people on this board seem to find without a problem."
GOOD, I thought I was the only person here who thought the crowd who have "access" to dozens of Brand X, model Y cars at pennies on the dollar should point the rest of us in the direction of these bargains they are able to find.
Bobzilla wrote: Change the bushings and you lose the "slop". The only Camber change I get now is when one wheel goes into a hole and the suspension drops 3" on that side.
Nah, you can still take the wheel and rock the top in and out thanks to the (necessary) play in the differential. They get worse over time, worst one I ever saw would move a half-degree. Only thing you can do is just plug your eyes and ignore it.
Mind you, the '63-82 'Vettes were like this too. It's just something that goes along with using the axles as suspension members. At least the C4 didn't require three acts of God in order to change rear toe when aligning.
You're killing your father, Larry.
poopshovel wrote:
You're killing your father, Larry.
We know it's his homework. Where's the berkeleying money you little brat?!?!
