**SOLD***
I'm selling my 1986 Jetta GLi, with clear Florida title, that I built for the Grassroots Motorsports Challenge. For those that aren't familiar with the Challenge, search Google. In brief we had a $2009 budget to build the car for autox, drags and concourse judging. I had the car for several years before I made a push to get to the $2008 Challenge only to have the car catch fire the night we were going to leave. Repairs were made, very little damage considering, and we made it to the $2009 Challenge and finished 36th out of 53 entrants. We would have finished higher had we paid more attention to the clutch and gotten it to grab on the NOS. I'm selling the car to make space for another project. It hasn't moved since last October when we parked it after the Challenge. I will however have the car out of storage and the dust knocked off for anyone to come out and drive it.
This car is a nearly complete project but the car starts, runs and drives well. It is registered, insured and technically street legal. I've driven it to multiple autox events and run with Autocrossers Inc and Capital Driving Club. The car is quick but I wouldn't call it fast as the goal was to make it reliable on the stock drivetrain before we increased power. All of the minor issues could be corrected in an afternoon. Car is quicker than much newer machines and could be faster with the power steering reinstalled, more aggressive alignment, further lightening, and new tires. SCCA classes it in EP. Not sure about NASA.
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The Bad (subject to your opinion :) --
Would it pass inspection? Nope. Could it? Probably with some work. Some holes in the floor and under the rear seat area. Looks like it might have been from driving it during a winter somewhere, maybe Philly as it was registered in Pennsylvania previously. The floors could be patched easily given access to a parts car. The body is strangely rust free considering the other areas of rust. Wheels arches are pretty clean but I tossed the flares. It is structurally sound and I flog it with no reservation on the autox course.
Bogs under WOT with the WOT switch installed. I have been told that this is likely from a bad O2 sensor. I may or may not try to install a new O2 sensor before I sell it to test the theory, I'm curious but I don't have much time to work on it. I've been running with the WOT switch disconnected and have had no issues right up to redline. NOS wasn't an issue since it has a fuel circuit to enrich the mix with NOS engaged.
I installed a MK3 gas tank after the fire(had a parts car in the garage) and the sending unit is different from the MK2 resulting in a non-functional gas gauge. I've loosely been looking for a MK2 tank to swap out but wasn't in a huge rush as I just keep the tank full.
Could use some new brake line ends at the rear proportioning valve as they're a bit rusty but seal fine. I'm also not convinced that the valve is even functional since it takes forever to bleed the rear calipers. Rear calipers were new when the car was parked by previous owner. They may need rebuilt since they were extremely stiff when I went through the braking system. Above all, the car stops as it should but I believe it could stop better. It's an occasional autox beater and it the brakes were lower on my priority list since I was building it for a specific event and needed to get there while watching my budget.
Shifter could use a new spring or ball(or both) as the shifter droops a bit. The rest of the shift assembly has been replaced. Not sure why I didn't change out the ball since I had a new one, go figure.
No heat, no AC, no interior. It's up to you if this is a bad thing or not. I built it as a race car.
Bad hinge on the drivers door. I intended to put late doors on it but never got around to it.
Power steering removed. I cut the metal lines and looped some rubber hose but the power rack is stiff to turn. I still have the fully functional pump and some of the hoses. I intended to reinstall it with a cooler since it's quite a workout with slicks installed. At speed it's irrelevant. I will also include a manual rack if you want to run with that.
The Good (Also subject to your opinion :) –
Drivetrain --
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Stock 1.8 '86 GLi motor. Motor pulls hard and runs great. Has Neuspeed 260 cam with adjustable cam gear set 3 degrees advanced. Likely higher mileage than the odometer shows, +150,000, since the speedo cable wasn't hooked up when I got it. Speedo cable installed and functional.
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Stock fully functional CIS-E with gutted airbox and K&N filter. WOT currently unhooked, see earlier comments above. New fuel filter, injector o rings, rear fuel pump oring, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor.
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TT exhaust clamped on with no cat. O2 bung welded in. Downpipe flange had rusted beyond use so I clamped the exhaust to the end of the downpipe when I removed the cat.
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New timing belt.
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AC removed and relays bypassed. Heater core and all climate control parts removed.
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Interior gutted except clean black dash and two sport seats. I do have a few bits left and a good black headliner. Door panels tossed since they were toast. All window regulators and door handles fully functional.
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Complete Missing Linkz shift assembly.
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Close ration transmission with 80% Peloquin shim kit.
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Solid front motor mount, heavy duty rear mount with poly inserts and new G60 transmission mount.
Suspension --
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Bilstein Sport Struts and shocks. Poly bushings on shocks.
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Ebay coilover sleeves with 580# springs front and 450# springs rear. Front spring perches were cut off but I still have them if you want to weld them back on, rears also included.
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Control arms rebuilt with new ball joints, poly front bushings and TT rear bushings.
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EuroSport camber plates front and EuroSport -1 degree rear shims. Alignment currently -1.5 front(needs -2.5 in my opinion) and -2.5 in the rear. 1/8 inch total toe out front.
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Ebay front strut bar with home brew mounts bolted to camber plates. Home brew rear shock tower bar made from pipe and exhaust clamps.
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No swaybars installed as the springs are more than enough to handle the load.
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Factory 13” sized brakes. Braided hoses from GAP. Synthetic fluid completely purged. New PBR Metal Master pads front and rear. Extra front rotors and Frt/Rr factory pads included.
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Rebuilt passenger axle. I believe there's at least one new tie rod also. Rear bearings and seals are new.
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Synthetic oil and gear oil. Only has 7 autox runs and 10 drag passes on it.
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Electrics all work minus rear defroster which I never rewired after the fire, worked fine before the fire.
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Currently has silver 14” snowflake wheels with worn out Hoosier autox tires. Also includes BMW 13” basketweave wheels with usable(but very worn) Toyo Proxes RA1's, will need small spacers to clear brakes and rear beam. Plus a set of Cabby alloys painted gunmetal and some decent stock 165's Kumhos and Coopers.
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Euro front bumper and rear bumped lightened extensively behind skin. Door bars removed but easily reinstalled if you wanted.
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Heat shields installed from MK3 after exhaust caught fire to undercoating. Apparently a common problem on early GLi's since VW never installed heat shields on these cars.
Will throw in extra MK3 stock suspension for free if interested. I can also leave graphics on if you wish.
I plan to keep the NOS but with any car sale I can leave it installed for an extra $300.
I have some decent Rota Slipstreams with Falken Azenis RT-615's that I'll include for $300 with lugs and 10mm spacers.
Asking $1850 OBO for the car without the NOS but special pricing is offered to the GRM crowd. Contact me and we'll talk.
Some pictures. Will add more detailed shots this weekend.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/vwguybruce/
Later, Bruce
