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Stampie
Stampie UltimaDork
9/20/19 8:32 a.m.
AngryCorvair said:

Bumping because cooling concept has changed. Mounting radiator in the former engine compartment, with the OE fans in their OE puller configuration. I can make whatever inlet and outlet ducting I need. The lower valance has 2 vent areas, each is 15” wide x 2” tall, for a total 60 sq.in as seen below:

I’m OK with enlarging those vents, probably by making an entirely new panel from stretch-metal. Total panel area is 40” x 6” = 240 sq.in. I’m also marginally OK with venting the decklid. This could be a temporary setup to get through the Challenge, or if it works well it could be permanent.

Feedback please!

For the Challenge a leaf blower in the staging lanes worked for us. 

stafford1500
stafford1500 Dork
9/20/19 9:11 a.m.

It looks like the lower valence (with the vents) is a removable part. Do that ti get more open area and less restriction. Add baffles to make sure the hot air gets out of the engine bay. For short runs, limited cooling will be OK, but may require dedicated cool downs between runs. Those could result in fewer runs and/or reduced consistency in the runs.

Generally the two worst cases for cooling are: full power extended runs at speed (most power input to the cooling system) and post-run traffic (sitting after high power application). If you can come up with the baffling to get cool air to the core and a dedicated duct to get the hot air out then you have done all you can without getting to cutting body panels. Venting the decklid would need to be part of the system so that the flow does not get bypassed at one condition or the other (at-speed/sitting).

Robbie
Robbie UltimaDork
9/20/19 11:14 a.m.

Think about air in, and air out (I know you will but remember to consider both - its common to optimize one but forget about the other). 

Also, think about pressure differentials. Air moves based on them. even with good sizes and good ducting, if the pressure is the same on both sides of an exchanger, no air will flow through. At the back of the car, high pressure zones are harder to find and harder to predict. 

So my clearly scientific answer is: make large in and out ducts and run the fans for pressure. Sorry that's not more helpful. 

Kramer
Kramer Dork
11/17/19 4:19 p.m.

Use a factory fan blade on a solid mount and make duct work to direct the airflow over the hot bits.   Hey, it worked for all those corvairs.  

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair MegaDork
11/17/19 7:12 p.m.

I’ve got a couple ideas I’ll probably try:

1. Being a 60’s GM product, it’s got those awesome kick panel vents that are fed by high-pressure area at base of windshield. Thinking about dryer duct from passenger kick panel to engine bay.

2. Similar concept, but using empty inner headlight bucket as source.

3. Still have option to put radiator in frunk 

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