1967 International COE, Small Adventure

The wheels and tires on this are big. Removing the wheels and wheel centers at the same time means they're too big to lift. Oldopelguy suggested I drag the trans jack back out and I'll be honest, it was a good idea. I jacked the truck up, put four jackstands under, just to be safe, and pulled the whole assembly off. 

With that out of the way I noticed that I had the special spooky haunted house brakes. Must have been a factory option. 

I tapped things and wiggled things and managed to get one cylinder to move. I didn't want to take everything apart if I could help it because I forgot to buy more brake fluid at the store yesterday. I theorized that I could stomp on the brakes hard enough to get the other cylinder free. What actually happened is that I wiggled the shoes a bit, and since I didn't have the retaining clips on the shoe moved and the piston popped out of the already free cylinder. Oops. 

Then I didn't take pictures for a while because I had brake fluid all over my hands, but I cleaned and reassembled the first cylinder, reinstalled it, pulled the second, realized that I could tap it down with a hammer but couldn't pop it out with air. I put the second cylinder back on, ran to the store for brake fluid, the cashier was cute which was nice, and then I popped the second cylinder apart with fluid pressure, this time on purpose. Dark picture, sorry. 

Reassembly, again, put the wheel back on and...... It works! I can spin the wheel, stomp of the brake, and it stops. I am calling this my first success in this project. Something that was broken (and pretty much everything is broken) is much less broken to the point where it works as designed. Three more wheels, motor, other stuff, I'll be driving around the yard in no time. 

mazdeuce said:

With that out of the way I noticed that I had the special spooky haunted house brakes. Must have been a factory option. 

Dark picture, sorry. 

Something's not coming through on that second picture... but I can go to it directly.

Re:Dark picture.  Are you shooting in jpg + Raw yet?  If so, I can probably save it if you send me the raw file. 

I actually do have a welder and know how to weld. It's a Lincoln SP-100T that suffered a bit being stored in the Grosh before it had things like a roof and water resistance. The welder itself seems to work but the wire rusted solid to the torch. When I checked a few years ago new torches were $125, but it looks like there is a solid supply of Chinese ones on eBay for about $55. Time to get things fired back up. 

In reply to garethashenden and Lomgboarder29: 

You two are at the top of the spares list and have dibs on what is left over. You will have to both enter Thunderdome, and we know how that goes for one of you......

In reply to pheo : 

That's cool! I'm glad there's interest in these old trucks. There seems to be a pretty standard "hot rod truck" formula that involves a modern diesel. It will be fun to see if this becomes a thing. 

How many miles on this one? Rough guess. I enlarged the spindle and it looks shockingly new. When i worked at the truck repair place, front spindles regularly looked worn. But that was at 500-750k.....

(I did electrical stuff nights and weekends.)

In reply to sleepyhead :

Still ignoring your advice and shooting jpeg. I could lighten it, but it just looks like crappy dirty brake parts that shouldn't be put back together.  

Which reminds me, when I took everything apart I checked the part numbers on the cylinders to see if it was worth messing with them, sometimes brakes cylinders are comically cheap. These are Lockheed FE-3068 cylinders, which reference to a Wagner cylinder of the same part number for around $55 each. And the truck has 8 of them.  

The whole brake system will need to be thought about, but I don't want to spend $400 on brake cylinders to make it safe to drive around the yard. 

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

That depends on whether the odometer reads 1/10 on the last digit or not. It says 059036. Last digit is black like the rest of them. 59k miles would be about right. There is evidence of fire, an earlier engine replacement, frame shortening. Ferdinand has had an interesting past. 

In reply to mazdeuce :

looking at it again, I think the blue towels are throwing off the exposure calculation (although, I have looked at the exif for time of the shot, that might be part of it too {shop towels seem to reflect a lot of light}).  Dunno if you're able to in the iA+ mode, but shifting the exposure compensation up would give you a brighter picture.  But, remember to set it back down, or things will "blow out" (i.e. you'll have over-exposed photos) the next day.

In reply to sleepyhead :

The big problem was that right about when I was taking this picture Mrs. Deuce was firing up the grill for dinner. I probably could have figured it out, but I wanted to get things back together so I could go eat. 

You can rebuild them for less than $55 a pop, more like $55 total. My google fu tells me you want NAPA UP 149 ($3.29) if they're 1 1/8 bore, UP 152 ($5.49) if 1 1/4 bore, casting FE-3068 can be either bore. All you need is a brake cylinder hone. 

PDF I used to figure that out: http://graphicvillage.org/meritor/200c.pdf, looks like your master cylinders might be in there too. 

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

(That depends on whether the odometer reads 1/10 on the last digit or not. It says 059036. Last digit is black like the rest of them. 59k miles would be about right. There is evidence of fire, an earlier engine replacement, frame shortening. Ferdinand has had an interesting past.)

If my foggy old brain serves me right, I'm 90% sure they  re-calibrated a lot of truck odo's back then so they could record up to the magic 999 thousand, 999 mile mark and then flip over to 000000 for the dramatic million mile club.

OR then I'm may be all wrong.

In reply to BrokenYugo :

Huge thanks. That's now downloaded and added to my folder of important truck info. It does look like all the brake and clutch hydraulics are in there, probably including the lines. It was also informative to see that nobody but International used the vertical master cylinders so there's not really an easy path forward to dual channel brakes. Unless they swapped to a dual channel booster later.......I need to look around the book more.  

Anyway, that was a huge help. I'm going to pull all the brakes apart to make sure all the cylinders are rebuildable and I can get things working and go from there. 

My first book is going to be titled - 

The Removal of Cotter Pins: Tools, Techniques, and Spiritual Guidance 

mazdeuce said:

My first book is going to be titled - 

The Removal of Cotter Pins: Tools, Techniques, and Spiritual Guidance 

Your writing style kind of reminds me of Robert Persig. Be careful you don't end up writing the same book. 

Awesome thread. You really bring down to hearth all the mecanical and restauration process, 1 step at a time. 

Are any Large size shirts left? How does that works, i just make a generous donation to the harvey found?

 I forget how the brakes are set up in newer cabovers like the Isuzus by they may have something that could work since they probably deal with similarly tight spaces.  If not perhaps something like a 90 degree master mount could work to squeeze a modern cylinder and booster in there.

In reply to Crackers :

I've never read his stuff. I'm not sure why. 

In reply to physician :

You're on the extras list. I won't know what the extra status is until things are made and shipped and I evaluate how many are left. I'm making these for fun, because it makes people happy and that makes me happy. If you get one, make someone happy. Donations are easy, or give a kid a ride at an autocross, teach a niece how to change a flat tire, take  your dad to the drag strip and watch the cool old cars he remembers make passes. Or do nothing. Wear the shirt and smile. That's enough.  

There's a danger in competence. The first time though a task you explore, learn, stop and think, take a drink of coffee before you break something out of frustration. Once you know how it all comes apart and goes back together you start to work on efficiency. Getting the job done with less mess, less broken parts, less time. That also means less time for coffee and fewer pictures. The second side is done. Everything went smoothy. I did have to spend a few minutes lining the shoes up to get the drum/wheel assembly back on, but it was the smooth flow of a known task. I did get Mrs. Deuce to shoot a video before I had to run and grab the little Deucelings from a sleep over. Multimedia.  

Edited with a better video. Mrs. Deuce has very high standards.  

https://www.youtube.com/embed/cT2KTnuQ4TM

Video not available.

FWIW we replaced the master cylinder in ours a few years back and it was available at the time. 

In reply to java230 :

Should be fixed now? 

And yes, the master is available, it's more that the whole system is single channel. Maybe they moved to a dual circuit booster later? 

Yes I can see it stop spinning now!

And I don't know, It sure looked the same from the pics. But the rear end would lock up easily when empty 

In reply to mazdeuce :

Thank you! I try more and more! I happen to teach my nephew some basic things and it is really rewarding. Helping is great :)

Cars should make people happy. I ride old motorcycles from the 70' for 10 years now, people always have cool story to tell about those bikes.. always leave the gas station with someone smiling. Ferdinan is not running yet and it is already get those reaction. 

Maybe with a moder cummins 6bt or something it could make a good daily driver..... in my head....

Since garethashenden was first to act I will defer on dibs, and in the spirit of Ferdinand choose the non-violent route...;) 

mazdeuce said:

In reply to garethashenden and Lomgboarder29: 

You two are at the top of the spares list and have dibs on what is left over. You will have to both enter Thunderdome, and we know how that goes for one of you......

 

mazdeuce said:

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

That depends on whether the odometer reads 1/10 on the last digit or not. It says 059036. Last digit is black like the rest of them. 59k miles would be about right. There is evidence of fire, an earlier engine replacement, frame shortening. Ferdinand has had an interesting past. 

Don't you just wish you could see a video reply of everything that that had been done to the truck since it was assembled? sort of a video montage and then you could sit back and say "Oh, that's why..."

Here's a suggestion for an engine replacement, how about a 6.9 litre (or 7.3) IDI? Built by International, used in Ford pickups and a lot of medium duty chassis stuff too, starting in 86 through to 1994. 

Simple to work on, all mechanical (no computer), and just a big, solid V8.  (About 950 pounds dry weight!) 

They're fairly available too, and the standard trannies will accept PTO stuff. You can also get 4x4 transfer cases etc.  

In reply to csmith1510 :

I wish that about every weird car I've bought. It would help soooooo much if I could get inside the head of the person who did the work before me. As least the guy who gets Ferdinand after me will have pretty good documentation.

In reply to Greywynd :

The IDI engines are on my list. Aside from being International motors, they're not too hard to find complete in donor trucks that could also give more modern axles. It may be that round two will be modernizing what needs modernizing, and a different engine may be on that list.

Before I get into the brief little bit of work that I did today, the mail lady brought me a package. Coffee..........

I always let people decide whether to keep anonymous or not, so the sender is gong to have to speak up themselves, but this is a cool care package. Carefully chosen coffee, a note suggesting it's best use, and stuck to the packages are plaques from the Mt. Philo Hillclimb. This comes from a small roastery called awake coffee that as near as I can tell is roasted at  The Sweet Spot in Waitsfield Vermont. Tomorrow morning I'm going to go all coffee snob and get out my hand crank burr grinder and make myself some proper coffee. Obviously a huge thanks. 

On to today! I've had good luck (relatively speaking) with the brakes so I decided to move to the rear. The rear of the truck is lighter, but the wheels are doubles, I'm thinking I should try to take them off as one unit. Worked in the front, what could go wrong?

I pulled to axle nuts off, well two of them, on the rest I removed the studs, deal with that later, and slid out the axle. I'm not sure what I thought I'd find, but somehow it didn't dawn on me that I'd be facing yet another huge nut. This one is 3 1/4 inches, and I've ordered a socket. It looks like the last guy used a chisel to move it, but it's not moving like that for me, and I don't want to screw it up.

Axle shaft seems substantial. I can't believe the 304 could put out enough power to bother this at all.