1 ... 26 27 28 29
Gearheadotaku
Gearheadotaku UltimaDork
6/4/18 9:14 p.m.

can't get the smile off my face, and its not even my car! Great job, can't wait to see it in action.

Patrick
Patrick MegaDork
6/4/18 9:35 p.m.

now i'm kinda itching to drive it.  

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
6/5/18 9:01 a.m.

Thanks for all the kind words.  It's been a long time since this sucker has made any noise.  It was a good birthday for me, and rebirthday for the Camaro.

Next steps are getting it ready for some dyno time and hopefully making an event soon.

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
6/11/18 9:54 a.m.

Been knocking out little things, fixing leaks, getting linkages in place, etc...

 

But I did get the front wheels and tires mounted up.  16x12s up front, 16x14s in the back.  It looks good on all fours.

 

 

They poke a little...

Apexcarver
Apexcarver UltimaDork
6/21/18 6:42 a.m.
Gimp said:

 

They poke a little...

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
7/2/18 12:39 p.m.

Got a nice little delivery today...

 

 

These aren't the typical roundy-round Afcos.  Sam at Strano Performance Parts hooked me up with these guys.  Mono-tubes, double adjustable, lots of rebound, and all sorts of other little tricks he's been working on.  I'm stoked to get these on the car.

759NRNG
759NRNG SuperDork
8/1/18 8:22 p.m.

BUMP

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
8/2/18 11:35 a.m.

I need to bump my ass out to the garage.  Been working on making brake lines, which isn't exciting to post about.  I should have a big update really really soon.

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
8/14/18 8:35 a.m.

Mini update, but major hurdle overcome.

I went to bolt up these fancy new shocks, and ran into a major issue.  I had been using those mock-up coilovers when building the car, but they are not as large at the top as a real shock, so when I went to go bolt the new shocks on, the shock body just barely cleared the driver side, but hit the roll cage tube on the passenger side, and wouldn't bolt up.

It was looking like the only real solution was to cut off the shock mount, and rotate it down a few degrees.  Major pain with the motor in, and all the other stuff around it.

Then I remembered that Strano mentioned that since these are mono-tubes, they could be inverted.  So I flipped the shock and wouldn't you know it, fits like a glove!

 

A fun side effect is that it will make adjusting the shock much easier, as the adjustment is now at the "top."

I did start to bolt on the rears, but I'll have an update on those soon.  I still haven't bent a single brake line, which is the next big job, but I wanted to get these hard parts installed for so I make sure I don't run a line into an area that will be an issue with clearances, etc.

759NRNG
759NRNG SuperDork
8/14/18 8:42 a.m.

Are you staying with the zip ties for the reservoirs or perhaps a fancy cradle with twin hose clamps? 

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/14/18 8:50 a.m.

I thought that was proper orientation for a shock?

 

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
8/14/18 9:03 a.m.
759NRNG said:

Are you staying with the zip ties for the reservoirs or perhaps a fancy cradle with twin hose clamps? 

Eventually hose clamps.  The zip ties were just what I had on hand.  There is an Energy Suspension bushing for this sort of thing between the reservoir and the cage.

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
8/14/18 9:05 a.m.
Dusterbd13 said:

I thought that was proper orientation for a shock?

 

I think with coil-overs, specifically twin tube, the body has to be at the top. I know the Konis on the Miata are like that.

81cpcamaro
81cpcamaro Dork
8/14/18 10:47 a.m.

While not coilovers, most muscle cars used twin-tube shocks and the main body was down, shaft facing upwards.

Getting closer to finishing, or at least driving it.

dps214
dps214 New Reader
8/15/18 9:00 a.m.
Gimp said:

I think with coil-overs, specifically twin tube, the body has to be at the top. I know the Konis on the Miata are like that.

You've got that backwards. "Standard" orientation (and the way twin tubes need to be oriented to work) is body down, like in the photos you posted. Monotubes can mount in whatever orientation you want.

DeadSkunk
DeadSkunk PowerDork
8/27/18 10:54 a.m.

In reply to Gimp :

Gimp, how long are the two lower links and the upper link locating your rear axle? I'm contemplating building something similar on my Challenge build. I also like the location of the Watts linkage. May copy that,too.

 

Apexcarver
Apexcarver UltimaDork
8/27/18 11:02 a.m.

We made the fore/aft links extremely long.   The lower control arms go through the frame and connect within inches of the back of the drivers seat. The upper link connects in plane with the main rollbar hoop. 

 

You dont have to make them that long though. Focus on the angles of the arms and where they intersect (if you imagine them extended)   The length of them helps with stability as the suspension moves through its range.   Also, there was some research involved in the amount of side offset for the single upper link. 

 

 

The vertical tube attaching to the harness bar is where the upper attaches, the lower mounts are visible on the floor there (no control arms installed in this image)

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
8/28/18 9:09 a.m.

If you are looking for exact measurements, I can get them to you.

Basically, longer links cause fewer other changes through the range of motion, so I made them as long as I could get away with.

DeadSkunk
DeadSkunk PowerDork
8/28/18 9:26 a.m.

In reply to Gimp :

Don't need the exact lengths. I found a good on-line explanation that helped with some of my misconceptions.Your pictures have been very useful though.

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
8/28/18 11:52 a.m.
DeadSkunk said:

In reply to Gimp :

Don't need the exact lengths. I found a good on-line explanation that helped with some of my misconceptions.Your pictures have been very useful though.

 

Sounds good.  Some random tips I've picked up along the way.  These are related to my application, so your mileage may vary.

-3rd link angle should be between 7-12 degrees down, frame mount lower than axle mount.

-Pinion angle 2-4 degrees down.

-The lower trailing arms should be parallel with the ground at ride height to 4 degrees up (chassis attachment higher).

-"On the cars I’ve built, I’ve always had equal length arms and 3rd link, because it’s convenient.
If you have the chance to make the lower control arms longer without creating a packaging problem, I would do it.
The benefit will be less roll steer, and more suspension travel with less arm angle change."

 

Wally
Wally MegaDork
8/28/18 6:01 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

If I remember right the idea behind mounting them with the body to the chassis and shaft to the control arm was that the body/fluid was heavier that the shaft so there’s less weight moving up and down that way.

Gimp
Gimp SuperDork
8/29/18 7:59 a.m.

So I did a little more work last night, and for the first time in over a decade, the Camaro sits on real suspension.

 

The springs might be a little long, but the car still needs ballast and is missing a bunch of the bits that will add weight, so they may be okay.  Either way, that's an easy fix.

 

Now I'm pretty much out of excuses and need to get the brake lines done.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/29/18 8:03 a.m.

I think I need a napkin. 

 

That is abso-berkeleying-lutely gorgeous. 

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair MegaDork
8/29/18 8:35 a.m.

damn, that's a racecar.

i admire your tenacity, but i fear a 10-year project because i know how much my interests change in 10 minutes.

edit:  just for grins, i opened page 1 of this thread.   the first line of your first post (dated Jan 2013) says:

[quote]

So I started a thread on another forum about five years ago about this project. Hopefully it will run in another five years. Original thread here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131539

[/quote]

and the first post in the nastyZ28 thread is dated 9/11/2008.   better hurry, your 10 years are almost up!  ;-)

DeadSkunk
DeadSkunk PowerDork
8/29/18 8:44 a.m.

Without ballast, what will this weigh?

1 ... 26 27 28 29
Our Preferred Partners
m1K6jcw6Phd9H0Nrf8nM10a6NHfoLvNI8bV6EOlNpsZHwAR791gMYkdG4sHyvoTB