Chadeux wrote: So this might go a whole 'nother way entirely Depending on how I look at it in the morning, and the answer to this next question. Is there a reason I couldn't put my 700r4 and 4472 into a '95 4x4?
There was a Bravada version of that gen Blazer. The 2 doors are only different behind the driver. Actually, the 2 doors have more room underneath since the fuel tank is rear mounted.
My understanding is the frame is actually pretty much identical. Except for my Bravada has a different transmission cross member that mounts the transfer case lower. I also know the 2nd gen bravada had a different transfer case that was the start of the electronic part time AWD that only kicks in when the rear tires slip, as opposed to the "dumb" viscous center diff in my 4472. The issue I'm seeing is the 4L60E that I'm pretty sure is in that '95. If the '95 Has a Vortec 4.3 like I think it does, I'd probably be interested in putting a marine intake (I think it was Mercury that had a Vortec 4.3 without the spider injectors the truck engine used), megasquirt and a turbo on it. Save my 350 for another project.
Also, the fuel tank is rear mounted on my 4 door bravada, haven't been under a 2nd gen blazer/s10 of any description.
Conversely I know very little of the 1st gen specs. I don't know about the crossmember thing, but the 2nd gen 2 door is a different frame with a shorter wheelbase. Like I said though, its only different in the rear half somewhere.
4.3l's are great stock, (spider injectors aside) but have some pretty weak cranks. I think the newer crank with the even fire split jounal is only good for like 250hp. Even the older crank is only good for ~300.
I found an even better source of almost 300hp.
I think I've heard of this referred to as mission creep.
EDIT: looks like that guy pulled the front diff.
Chadeux wrote: I also know the 2nd gen bravada had a different transfer case that was the start of the electronic part time AWD that only kicks in when the rear tires slip, as opposed to the "dumb" viscous center diff in my 4472.
actually they used the true awd 4472 transfer case up until 97 so you can get a 2nd gen bravada with the vortec 4.3 and the good transfer case
This build thread needs some Prozac. lol
Isn't much of a build thread if I'm honest. Current incredibly sad roadblock is the lack of a puller to take the power steering pulley off.
O'reilly rents them. If you bring it back in 48hrs, you get a full refund
So what should be the proper procedure to installing a pickup tube into a small block chevy oil pump? Because I think I just screwed up something that seems very simple. The pickup didn't want to go in so I gently tapped it in with a rubber mallet. Now there's no way it's going to stay in.
Poor boy way of installing the oil pump pickup tube is to tighten an adjustable wrench down on the tube right next to the bulge and tap it into place by using a mallet on the side of the Crescent wrench.
They usually press in and have a bracket that goes under one of the pump cover bolts.
They're press fit, and then tack welded in place.
So a friend of mine wrecked his TBI 350 swapped '90 RS Camaro.
He decided his new grey t-topless (he was very serious about this when he went looking for another shell apparently, something about leaks...) 3rd gen Camaro is just fine with a 4 barrel. So I got the intake manifold from the TBI setup.
He was going to check the ECU for me, but the rest of the car got sold first.
And the harbor freight sawzall bit the dust when I tried to cut what was left of the exhaust off.
Also I think I found out why my temp gauge never worked. The sending unit was slightly broken in half.
Engine is starting to go back together. oil pickup is tacked in place and the pan is on. I cleaned up all the gasket surfaces ready for the intake to go on. I was worried about my laziness/cheapness not working in my favor when I put the 4.3 crank pulley onto the 350's harmonic balancer and saw how far it stuck out. After worrying about it for a while I finally just bolted the 4.3's water pump (apparently the same part number for the same year C1500 with the 350, not really surprised) on and layed the belt across the 2 pulleys.
I realized the picture I took with the belt doesn't actually show how it lines up on the crank pulley, but berk it, there it is.
What I'm trying to say is, I'm pretty sure the 4.3 front accessories are going to bolt up to the 350 and not be a problem.
And "it" has already been berk'd, here's the really awful blurry picture of the engine on the stand.
You people show know the kind of journalistic quality to expect from me at this point, the workmanship isn't much better if I'm honest, but I'd like to think I'm trying.
Also the best way to realize how bad your shop is? Realize you're showing it to people on the internet.
I've been doing some searching on the Transfer case and have not found an answer.
My concern, how much power will the viscous coupling handle?
Is it's capacity heat related, like would a cooler on the Xfr box raise the capacity?
Is the power feed straight through to the rear with the front coupled?
Great now I realized I don't actually know the answer to any of these questions and need to do more of my own research. I assumed my current weak engine wouldn't make it of much concern, but now this thought process brings me back to how much damage I probably did the transfer case through the previous tire debacle.
Still no answers, but I found where the guy I talked to at LS Fest with the 1500hp LS powered Syclone claims he's running a stock 4472 transfer case. Didn't look like he had actually driven it yet when I saw it.
You should not install mismatched tires on an AWD this will seriously stress the center diff (viscous coupling).
There is a way if you pull one of the driveshafts (front) and run it in "HI lock".
I am asking these questions to decide if I wanted to try an AWD auto crosser, however not sure about the rules and it may be more fun with a happy back end! I think it would be a huge advantage on a road course and especially in the wet.
A cooler and pump would probably make a huge difference. Use a Nascar type pump belt driven off a driveshaft.
I used one of these once.
one of these would probably work
bentwrench wrote: You should not install mismatched tires on an AWD this will seriously stress the center diff (viscous coupling).
I knew that, it happened anyway. That's why the BMW wheels are on it now. Before it gets driven again it's getting 2 235/75r15s on the rear to match the new fronts on the Olds wheels.
bentwrench wrote: I've been doing some searching on the Transfer case and have not found an answer. My concern, how much power will the viscous coupling handle? Is it's capacity heat related, like would a cooler on the Xfr box raise the capacity? Is the power feed straight through to the rear with the front coupled?
if you search '4472 transfer case strength' you get a good amount of results. people say they hold up easily to 500 hp and seems like there a a good amount of people pushing more then that without problem.
I wasn't that worried because I expect this engine to make the same or less power than a stock Syclone/Typhoon in it's current form. Probably less.
Cooling system concerns me more than the drivetrain.
So several months ago I actually took this truck to a shop to get the starter replaced because I was pretty much constantly busy at the time and was never able to find the time to get it done. This now comes back to bite me because they rounded the bolts on the front driveshaft, which needs to come out now.
The desire for this thing to behave like a stock truck that just happens to have a V8 and primarily be a daily driver has faded away. With that I decided to ditch the AWD and the TBI. The new long term goal is a 2wd street/strip truck with an LS. Shorter term goal is to get it running and cruise around making V8 noises.
Diff is out.
Spindles are off
And I went to Nashville to get a pair of spindles from a 2000 Blazer 2wd with dual piston calipers on them.
Initially it looks like the first issue I have is with the lower ball joints. They point down on the Bravada and up on the 2wd Blazer. My dad's idea was to try flipping the lower ball joints, looking at the way the control arms are made, that /might/ work. Then I need to look at the steering arms, which look to be longer on the 2000 spindles but I think it might be able to be corrected with the tie rod ends. After I get all that figured out I'll need to find wheels that fit, because none of the ones I have will anymore.
Oh and I need to cut that last bolt out of the passenger side diff bracket, because that's still getting in the way of changing the motor mounts and as far as I can tell there's no way to get the right wrench into the frame to hold the nut on the other side of that bolt. I believe at one time it was supposed to be captive but it isn't anymore.
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