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dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/15/14 4:49 p.m.

Well another challenge car in the garage and the wife is a little ticked off. After trying to take on too much last year went for a runner and driver right off of the bat. 1995 Camaro Z28 Auto, T-tops, off of a high school kid. Determined there is no way to take a good photo as three of four corners are damaged. Looking for advice and leads on challenge friendly parts. Looking for another set of rims, springs and shocks to start. Nothing like some pit stick to make a car smell good for sale!

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 Dork
3/15/14 4:53 p.m.

picture doesn't show up.

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/15/14 4:55 p.m.

working on it first timer here!!

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/15/14 4:59 p.m.

First fix broken exhaust stud, which lead to another leak. Also had my 11 year old daughter start pulling interior to deal with rusted floor.

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/15/14 5:00 p.m.

Oh yeah the best part so far the take from the car. Best being an 8mm craftsman combo wrench!!

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/15/14 5:03 p.m.

Oh yeah also picked up a new kart for the kid two days latter!!

Opti
Opti Reader
3/16/14 10:41 p.m.

For the challenge you could get a set of rusty pacestter headers for prolly a little over 100 bucks. Headers really wake the vehicle up. Dont run a flowmaster cross flow muffler, they sound good but dont flow well.

Also TB Bypass is free and worth a few hp, you can also remove the air pump evap and egr stuff, being OBD I I dont know how emissions in in your area.

A tune really wakes these up, Im always told OBDI is easier to tune but all my experience is with the OBDII stuff, but if you could find a friend who has the capability to flash a tune for you, you can probably find one of the major tuners (PCMforless, Madtuner) bolt on tune file online.

Ive also seen a few do a cheapy cam swap using 80 valve springs and a used cam (cc503 cc306 or LT4 hot cam), and using the stock rockers and whatever year's pushrods that were hardened from the factory. Really the rockers are just SBC rockers so how expensive could a set of used rollers be.

A few years ago, the in thing was to take used LS rockers (1.7 roller vs LT1s 1.5 stamped steel) and drill the studs holes out and run them. People said dont do it there will be problems, the problems never seemed to surface, at least that I saw.

For an intake cut a hole in your hood or lay your radiator back and go find a cheap ass lid from an LS1 car, it will be cheaper and better than the LT1 style aftermarket cold air intakes.

There is also a 1LE a/c delete pulley, lots of weight can be pulled from these cars.

Shocks and bushings are probably shot. Bushings all around made a HUGE difference on my car. I did all Moog bushings and BJs (Upper and lower ball joints, Front UCA & LCA bushings, Rear LCAs), for a little over 200 from rock auto. Moogs rear lower control arms bushings are solid like the factory option 1LE ones for added performance but still have a little flex which is required in that position on the live axle. Many people do poly urethane and it was the rage forever but most of the race guys recommend against it.

Some also box the rear lower control arms which only costs you scrap metal.

There really arent any cheap shock options that are good, everything is E36 M3 except konis and bilsteins. I love my Konis, if I was on a budget Id probably run bilsteins and cut a coil on stock springs and remove the rear isolators for a little more drop.

A lot of the race guys lower the rear panhard bar, supposed to make a big difference.

Sways - you can get a new ST front 35mm for about 200 used a little cheaper, you may be able to find a GM 33mm 1Le bar for cheap but most recommend a 35/21 setup for a square tire setup. Dont buy a new rear sway ever, pretty much everything from 18-26mm is available used. The 3rd gen runs the same rear bar as 4th gens, so you just go to the junkyard with a micrometer and measure til you find the size you want, or be lazy like me and get on thirdgen.org, make WTB add and pay some dude 50 bucks to pull it out of his garage and ship it to you

Wheels - check craigslist and ls1tech, ltxtech reqional forums regularly and you can probably find some ZR1 replicas or OE for real cheap, there really arent a lot of options cheap but there are a lot of people that have OE replicas of vette wheels or ZR1s, SS 10 spokes, or WS6 wheels, and if you want to go retro awesome get some enkei wins or LG world challenge wheels, they have fallen from grace and are cheap but center caps are literally impossible to find and they are a complete whore to mount tires on..to the point where you will show up to pick your wheels up from the tire shop to find the guys trying to cut the tire off with a sawzall trust me. They are all 17x9 or 9.5 which is really the sweet spot for 4th gens (outside of 17x11s).

Would strongly recommend a set of subframe connectors for the safety part, they really help in a crash. Performance is controversial as some people say they help but the consensus seems to be they cover up some problems the completely E36 M3ty OE shocks produce and with good shocks they make less of a difference.

Brakes- You have 11" front brakes. You can go find some LS1 car front knuckles with calipers and everything for about 200 bucks and they bolt on and give you a 12" front rotor and with good tires and an aggressive pad they stop very well, or you buy a bracket for a little over a 100 bucks and run a corvette rotor 13" and use the LS1 caliper or a vette caliper, stops even better.

Sites frrax.com (site dedicated to auto-x and road racing 3rd and 4th gen fbodies, lots of good techinical info)

Ls1tech.com (ls1 site that has a really good LT1 section, huge classifieds, and good subforums for suspension tuning etc)

Ltxtech.com (like a small version of LS1tech only for LT1 stuff)

foundersperformance.com (new suspension company makes a few really cheap suspension components)

PS: If it was me and I just wanted it to be fun, Id buy up used parts to do a bolt on car and then throw a used cc306 in it and pay for a mail order tune, a used nitrous kit (150-200 hit), a big stall (I think the SS3600 is the in converter but may be diff for n20 cars), some 3.73 gears, throw some 255 M/Ts on the OE factory snow flakes with some E36 M3 225s up front, and a cheap set of comp engineering rear shocks and go troll everyone by running high tens at the track.

Ive been around Fbodys for a long time and love the LT1s, if you have any questions let me know, I am probably about to sell my whole car for not much more than challenge money and if I do, I might consider selling some of aftermarket stuff off mine. I should really part it out so I can get at least some of my money back out of it, but I dont have the time.

patgizz
patgizz PowerDork
3/17/14 11:58 a.m.

did someone just recommend the throttle body coolant line bypass as a way to pick up any power?

wow.

edizzle89
edizzle89 New Reader
3/17/14 1:21 p.m.
patgizz wrote: did someone just recommend the throttle body coolant line bypass as a way to pick up any power? wow.

although the gain is very minimual, there is still probably a gain so why not? its pretty much free to do and dosent hurt anything

Opti
Opti New Reader
3/17/14 2:11 p.m.
patgizz wrote: did someone just recommend the throttle body coolant line bypass as a way to pick up any power? wow.

It has repeatedly shown to gain a couple of horsepower, nothing major but its free. On a hot day a bypassed TB was 30* cooler when I tested it.

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/18/14 11:44 a.m.

Thanks for the information, car already has some rusty but trusty headers on it and of course the flowmaster muffler everyone says not to use!

If it passes emissions here I am going to keep it streetable if not, anything goes.

TIGMOTORSPORTS
TIGMOTORSPORTS Reader
3/19/14 7:40 p.m.

Remove the heavy exhaust and crossflow muffler. Insert a small length of larger diameter exhaust tubing, add a cheap glasspack, and turndown.

Opti
Opti New Reader
3/19/14 8:35 p.m.

In reply to TIGMOTORSPORTS:

I wouldn't do this because I did do it, it was ridiculously loud and drew tons of attention, and with and untuned LT1 it will constantly pop when you let off and shoot flames.

A used slp exhaust, non loudmouth can be cheap flow well and not be too loud. A hooker aerochamber is another good one thats cheap but not stainless.

Or since the flowmaster does sound so good just put a cutout in front of it when you want the extra noise and power.

You should be able to pickup a bunch of power by doing some good lt headers and a good y pipe, assuming that your shorties bolt up to the factory crappy y pipe. Put motor mounts in at the same time.

The guys on ls1tech have had good luck with the eBay stainless stepped ones and the hooker knock offs.

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/22/14 6:11 p.m.

Well pulled the Y pipe an cat section. Impressive amount of pieces welded together to form the exhaust!!

<img src=" photo IMG_0462_zps283af614.jpg" />

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/22/14 6:12 p.m.

Only a couple of holes in the first section. Have to keep the budget in mind, repair versus replace!!

<img src=" photo IMG_0463_zps87c623f7.jpg" />

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/22/14 6:14 p.m.

Was worried rear main was leaking, but following the classic keep tracing until the oil looks clean, looks like the passenger side valve cover gasket is the problem. Took a bunch of picks trying to show it but this one was about the best I ended up with!

<img src=" photo IMG_0474_zpsda25e2aa.jpg" />

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/23/14 1:50 p.m.

Well still cant weld very good. More practice I guess. Some scrap metal and a couple of less holes.

Has anyone dealt with the oil level sensors that GM uses? I am trying to decide if it is just the gasket leaking or the sensor body itself. Almost like oil dripping out of where the connector goes into the sensor.<img src=" photo IMG_0484_zps5f5c71e5.jpg" />

Opti
Opti New Reader
3/23/14 2:09 p.m.

I had the same leak on the oil level sensor I just ordered the whole thing cause it was like 17 dollars

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/29/14 5:22 p.m.

Oil leak from level sensor is fixed!!! Who know a subbie oil drain plug, M20X1.5 was the perfect fit..M20X1.5, and about half the price of a new sensor. Just jumped the wires together to keep the low oil light off.

Exhaust is bolted back up after removing busted studs, gotta love a torch, with 1/4-20 hardware hope it is heavy enough to hold.

Next up is removing the remaining drivers seat/carpet, and see just how bad the floor is....hopefully some picks tomorrow.

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
3/30/14 3:05 p.m.

Carpet is out and there is the rust from the other side. Also can see where someone must have put it into the ditch and hit something from the bottom of the car.

<img src=" photo IMG_0529_zpsf3df94c6.jpg" />

<img src=" photo IMG_0532_zps15ad4694.jpg" />

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
4/19/14 1:56 p.m.

Have been traveling for work and had a short break from doing anything. Cut out passenger side floor where it was rusted and welded in some new steel. First one was rough, second was better and third literally took a third the time. Never realized how far from the rust through the little pin holes spread. Should have cut more out of the first one.

Decided to use JB on some spots where something had hit the bottom and the topography was really funky.

Doesn't look pretty but it is sealed up. Now on to the drivers side. Hopefully the improvement curve continues.

<img src=" photo IMG_0571_zps820037c3.jpg" />

<img src=" photo IMG_0572_zps08ded8f3.jpg" />

<img src=" photo IMG_0573_zpsdf4fa0e6.jpg" />

<img src=" photo IMG_0574_zpsc929ba92.jpg" />

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UberDork
4/19/14 2:30 p.m.

Protip, black polyurethane roof flashing sealant=slow drying automotive seam sealer, much better than JB weld.

TIGMOTORSPORTS
TIGMOTORSPORTS Reader
4/20/14 7:09 a.m.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: Protip, black polyurethane roof flashing sealant=slow drying automotive seam sealer, much better than JB weld.

Ditto. We used to use the roof flashing sealant when patching around new metal in trunks and floors

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
4/24/14 7:00 p.m.

Gotta Love Craigslist, found a 32MM front bar and a set of Eibach springs off of a 2000 Camaro SS.

Was this a SLP conversion car? and are the shocks valved any differently then a Z28?

<img src=" photo IMG_0580_zps5380b982.jpg" />

<img src=" photo IMG_0581_zps74c70989.jpg" />

<img src=" photo IMG_0582_zpsf9d8a511.jpg" />

dankimber
dankimber New Reader
4/24/14 7:00 p.m.

Looks like drivers side was even worst then passengers!

<img src=" photo IMG_0583_zpsc81a1b85.jpg" />

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