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dcteague
dcteague New Reader
7/25/20 5:39 p.m.

Finally got the heater/AC box out, what a pain that is.  Entire dash and support bar need to come out, along with the entire wiper system.  But what a way to dump some weight.  Between the box, controls, wiring and compressor it must add to almost 100lbs.

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
7/25/20 5:41 p.m.

Funny that with no weight up front, jack stands are really only needed in the rear while the front floats.

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
8/2/20 4:01 p.m.

Been spending time evaluating different braking options. I've decided to delete the brake booster and add a dual master cylinder setup with remote reservoir.  I'm using a Massive Brakes dual MC setup and Wilwood MCs and bias bar.  I'll be running hard lines direct from the MCs to the old front/rear lines, and modifying the rear line setup to reduce the number of connections in the rear.  I'll be using the Chase Bays fender well kit from an E30 to do this in the rear, and the e36 setup up front.  Should be much cleaner/simpler, and it'll eliminate a few connections and rubber lines.  Still need to figure out where I'll mount the remote reservoir but think there's room just above the master cylinders.  Its a 3-bay reservoir, so each MC and the clutch slave are all separate.  This also eliminates the brake booster and ABS system, but since this is an analogue car it won't impact any control modules.  I'm still debating on the need for a bias valve on the rear lines or if I should do all addjustments through the bias bar that's been added to the system.

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
8/15/20 12:16 p.m.

While I am waiting on a few items for finishing off my brake setup, I installed heat shielding and started to run the clutch lines into the cabin - loosely attached the push-in line to the clutch master cylinder, and replaced all of the pedal box bushings, springs, etc.  Will spend time tonight and may finish off the pedal box install and run the new throttle cable and rehab the accelerator pedal bushings and springs.  Once I can get the last of my brake line supplies, I'll finish those off and start on the fuel lines, and I can then start to reinstall the engine!

 

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
9/4/20 6:44 p.m.

Modified the steering coupler from rubber to solid this evening.

Also finished modifying the front and rear brake lines so I can run a single line into the separate front and rear master cylinders using the Chase Bays "F" adapters.  They worked pretty well as long as you have a bubble flare tool to match the original flares from stock fittings. 

 

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
9/7/20 5:17 p.m.

Did a bit of work out of order, just figured I'd start getting things done while I wait for more brake line and 37degree flare parts for my flaring tool.  Added the front coilivers, front subframe, steering rack, and mounted the brake reservoir in it's final spot.

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
10/10/20 8:15 p.m.

Installed the rear subframe and diff, along with the new struts/adjustable springs.  Decided to clean up the trunk and give it a good coat of paint.

 

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
10/12/20 9:45 p.m.

Installed the fire suppression today, and ran the lines for nozzles - this is a 2 nozzle unit so only running them at my feet/torso and will upgrade later to a larger system and put a couple nozzles into the engine bay.  For now this satisfies my need for safety.

 

Also ran my fuel lines through the regulator and looped it to bypass the fuel rail to test for leaks and pressure.  I hit my target pressure, but noticed a slight leak at the regulator inlet/outlet values so need to re-evaluation my fittings and maybe move to a system that uses crush washers or a better sealing o-ring.  I have pressure which is good - ran the pump using a battery to test flow and leaks - worked well.

 

sd

dyintorace (Forum Supporter)
dyintorace (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
10/13/20 5:59 a.m.

Looking good! Thanks for sharing the progress. 

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
10/19/20 1:39 p.m.

Got a little stuck on the control arm installation - 1) the spindle bolt is spinning in the control arm bushing, so need to unbolt the spindle from the strut to use a hex on the control arm bolt to tighten, and 2), the spherical bearing is not as solid a fit as I had hoped, so I'm going to try an alternate vendor to see if their model fits more tightly.  I'm not against running it this way, but would prefer the control arm be held closer to the main part of the control arm vs the tip of the pivot point as pictured.  Full front end is installed aside from the one bolt issue, and just finished mounting the trans/clutch to the engine, sorting out electronics, and getting ready to re-install the engine.  Fun times still tons to do on the interior now that I've gutted it and can do more behind the center console without a heater box.

 

AxeHealey
AxeHealey Dork
10/19/20 2:01 p.m.
dcteague said:

Modified the steering coupler from rubber to solid this evening.

 

Is this something you machined yourself or is this an off the shelf part? It looks like there's a brand name but I can't tell. Sorry if you mention it earlier in the thread, breaks from work usually consist of using the forum as a picture book. 

EDIT: I couldn't help myself and started googling what I could find. AKG Motorsports appears to make a similar thing for an '02... 

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
10/19/20 2:25 p.m.

Yes, its from AKG.

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
11/1/20 8:23 a.m.

Finally finished the brake setup install.  Kept getting small leaks between the reservoir and MCs due to the fittings and finally just purchased a set of short SS lines that run to non-aluminum fittings.  Seems to have fixed the leaking issues, the pedal feel is really nice thus far.  The bias bar is connected to a remote adjuster I'll run into the cabin center console.  Also finished installing the suspension front/rear, and put the wheels back on so I can start to move it around the garage a bit since winter is upon us and will need to get the cars into the warmth/dryness.  

 

Also installed the headers, and pulled the oil pan to install the baffle kit.   I'll be brazing this into place today using aluminum rods with flux.  I've been using this method for custom fabricating a drain at my home, and the strength of these is far better than I thought so want to try them on the baffle to see how they work.  Also took the opportunity to install a wire nut on the oil pump since its a known weak spot on the S52.

Lastly, installed the chassis harness, and have been slowly connecting to various modules so that I can test the engine starts and a few remaining electronics work as expected.  There's not much left, so most will be removed once I know what I can do without interfering with lights and running the engine.  I gutted the wiring harness quite a bit, but I'm still amazed at the amount left needed.  I know I could have gone much further, but didn't want to chance not being able to start the car and having to rewire.

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
11/7/20 6:14 p.m.

A bit of progress - finally finished off some basics on the engine to eliminate the heater core, shift linkage upgrade, and wrapping up a few chassis items and then installed the engine - would have been a bit faster had I not installed one of the engine mount arms upside down.  That took about an hour of struggling to get the engine to sit on the mounts before I figured it out.

Also took a bit of time to remove the saftey bolts on the steering column and install spacers to lower the steering an inch.  Was super easy with the dash removed using vice grips on the top of the bolts and they broke loose easily.

dcteague
dcteague New Reader
11/8/20 7:59 p.m.

Cleaned things up a bit, and started wiring things back.  Installed the catch-can, one of the original brackets fit almost perfectly after expanding one of the holes in the bracket.  Trying to find a spot for the remote radiator reservoir.  Next to install the intake, TB, and route the coolant hoses back to their appropriate spots.  I had an extra battery ground strap and cut/re-assembled it shorter and used it to replace the original engine ground strap.  I should be able to fire this up next weekend - without an exhaust, just headers for now.

 

Oil catch can mounted easily using this bracket that I can't remember goes with (so much is no longer used, I'm not sure it'll be missed).

dcteague
dcteague Reader
11/11/20 6:56 p.m.

Made a bit of progress getting engine back together, but needed to make some modifications to the intake since I'll be running the M50 intake on my S52.

First, I tapped the M50 intake using one of the casting spots that are filled but were intended for some vacuum lines that weren't needed on the M50 but needed for my engine.  I just inserted a threaded barb/fitting to connect to my catch can setup.  The other vacuum line goes to the fuel line vacuum/evap valve.

I had to modify the brackets that hold the intake to the block as well as hold the idle control valve and oil dip stick.  This was a little more involved.  I cut a small plate of aluminum because the original S52 bracket is too short for the M50 manifold.

I could then attach the original bracket to this new plate. Since I didn't need the entire bracket, I cut away some of the useless areas since I won't be using a few of the stock items.  SAP delete and CCV - SAP these aren't really useful in my application so I deleted them.  The catch can resolves the CCV but SAP is only for emissions so both are now gone.

The above is what it looks like once completed - the rubber circular item holds the ICV.  Below is what was removed from stock bracket - a little grinding and paint and it should look pretty stock.  I'm waiting on some new fittings to connect the ICV and temp sendor into the port on the right you can see with the metal threaded inlet.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
11/21/20 9:17 p.m.

Was able to spend some time getting the intake fully installed.  Waiting on the 3.5" intake bellow before the airbox goes in, and I can start this up.  I decided to delete the cats, and replace the center section with a supersprint resonator setup - and drop the mufflers.  This should keep it track legal for noise.  

Finished getting all of the hoses routed appropriatesly, fuel lines, etc.  Then finished the install.  Need to get the airbox installed, and then can finish cooling and exhaust.  

dcteague
dcteague Reader
12/12/20 6:53 p.m.

Moved along over the past couple weekends getting the electronics back in place, installed the 3.5" MAF, and finally got all the hoses and cooling lines situated, at least to test engine function.  First try to fire it up failed, and after a few hours, found the battery ground wasn't solid.  Them this happened.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BZu7Vvx4KL1dduUe9

jfryjfry (FS)
jfryjfry (FS) Dork
12/12/20 9:47 p.m.

it sounded like something happened!   hope those were good sounds.   congrats!

dcteague
dcteague Reader
12/13/20 6:50 a.m.
jfryjfry (FS) said:

it sounded like something happened!   hope those were good sounds.   congrats!

Yes, no exhaust yet so it sounded awesome.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/4/21 7:17 p.m.

Starting to mock-up the center console.  I'll have a total of 5 gauges with 3 supported with warning lights.  It'll also include the remote brake bias adjuster, window switches, toggles for gauges, accessories, aux fan, hazard lights, and an electric defogger fan.  Gauges will include:

  • Oil Pressure 
  • Oil Temp 
  • Water Temp
  • Fuel Pressure
  • Volt Meter

The 1st 3 gauges will have warning lamps, each separate but with a single one combined into the steering column next to my shift light.  I know I won't use all 5 on the track, but during testing, start-up, etc, having them to monitor and make sure everything is okay will be good.  I am also installing a new horn and high-beam trigger off the steering wheel using paddle shifting mechanisms for easy access.  I'll post those when I get a chance to begin the install.  

This image is a basic template of the initial layout.  The bottom section includes all of the toggles, kill switch, brake bias, and 2 of the gauges, the center vent is where the main 3 gauges will go.  I'll need to figure out how to get the center console to face more towards me vs the passenger seat.  Not sure why they designed the dash to face the wrong way - must have been designed in England.  You can see I've installed the solid shifter, and those metalic hoses are to route my electric fan into the defogger ducts in the dash.

This was my old 3-gauge panel that I'll be replacing using a different material that's not flammable - this was plexiglass with a vinyl carbon fiber applied.  My new design will be using FR4 grade material that's fire resistant and stiffer/easier to work with - this one is for sale if anyone is interested - it includes the gauges since I'll be switching to white faced gauges.

I also started to modify the airbox in the car to accept a 3.5" MAF and open up the airbox inlet to 4" to avoid any restrictions.  The original airbox is setup to accept a 3" hose, whereas going to the 3.5" MAF requires some changes and this seemed like the best option to avoid having to find a euro e36 airbox and ship it from across the sea.  I'll cut out some of the stock box to allow me to slide a 4" abs pipe into the box and then adhere it to a 4" adapter plate - then I can simply use a 3.5" to 4" adapter hose to connect to the MAF and retain the stock airbox - its a pretty effective CAI compared to aftermarket options, and the filter options are pretty good and avoid oil on the MAF sensor.

 

This is a stock airbox connector:

This is the 4" intake adapater that needs to be mounted to the box.

After cutting off the stock connection joint - I'm left with a flat spot to mount the 4" plate adapter. However, I'll need to run a 4" ABS plastic pipe into the box - coming in the next episode once its delivered - a $20 part that is going to be cut into the box in the same angle as the stock inlet hose you can see.  I found after some work on the box the stock pipe extends inside the box about 4", so I'll do the same with a 4" pipe to retain the stock flow.  I'll adhere it all together using epoxy, and then recoat it all in relfective heat barrier.

NOT A TA
NOT A TA SuperDork
1/4/21 7:45 p.m.

Been following quietly. Auto Meter makes angled gauge rings to allow you to point the gauges directly to your line of sight. They're cheap at like $15.00 for a set of three IIRC.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/4/21 7:52 p.m.
NOT A TA said:

Been following quietly. Auto Meter makes angled gauge rings to allow you to point the gauges directly to your line of sight. They're cheap at like $15.00 for a set of three IIRC.

Good to know - will look for them.

Turbine
Turbine Reader
1/5/21 10:52 a.m.

Would you mind sharing your oil pressure sensor setup? I've had issues with my setup since I installed it

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/5/21 11:18 a.m.

I'm using an Autometer gauge and sender that's installed into a Bimmerworld adapter in the stock sender location.  Here's the adapter I'm using:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWorld-Oil-Distribution-Sending-Block.html

The sender and gauge are basic Autometer items though.

What gauge and sender are you using?

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