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Turbine
Turbine Reader
1/5/21 12:17 p.m.

In reply to dcteague :

Awesome! Thanks. I'm not really sure what my block is. It came in a box of parts when I bought the car. The gauge and sender are both VDO 

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/5/21 12:51 p.m.

The block you're using might be creating a problem depending on how its designed.  It may be more for temp than pressure which could be the problem, or the gauge and senders may be mismatched.  What pressure is it reading?

Turbine
Turbine Reader
1/5/21 1:41 p.m.

In reply to dcteague :

I don't think I've seen my cold idle go over 30psi. Hot idle is 3-4. Pretty low on both. 

It could always be that my oil pump is tired, but I don't see any other signs of that. I need to get a mechanical gauge on it to verify. 
 

Good call on the block too. I went ahead and ordered the one you linked. Sorry for the thread jack!

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/5/21 1:50 p.m.

Came across this online - might be useful to validate against your numbers.  I haven't had mine up and running recently so don't recall cold/hot pressures:

PSI at idle.
S52
Minimum 0.5 bar
Regulated maximum 4.0 bar

S54
Minimum 0.7 bar
Regulated maximum 4.0
 

Turbine
Turbine Reader
1/5/21 1:59 p.m.

In reply to dcteague :

Great! Thanks again!

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/9/21 9:56 p.m.

Spent some time working on my electrical connections and modifying the stock airbox to accommodate a larger hose than stock since I've upgraded to the 3.5" MAF.    For this I've cut out the original connection fitting, as well as the raised part that looks like a partial tube on the top.  I've purchased a 4" ABS elbow that's usually used in woodworking shops for vacuum systems.  I'll cut a right angle out of this, then glue it back onto the stock airbox using epoxy, then recover everything in heat protective foil.

 

This is the original flange.

This is the adapter from the 3.5" MAF.  Since finding a 3.5" coupler and hosing is much harder than 4", I'm going to use 4" for anything before the MAF.  I assume this will provide more flow.  I was originally going to use the pictured flange and attach it to the box with epoxy and then found the elbow and think I can recreate the original design with a 4" flange.

After cutting away all of the housing that's associated with the flange structure, I ended up with this.

Now I just need to make sure I get a good cut on this elbow, and it should fit right over the hole I created and will be ready for epoxy.  I also bought a 1/4" sheet of ABS in case I screw things up.   Here's the elbow - $8 modification with some elbow grease.

Here's a cut-line added so it makes more sense.  This will fit over both the face of the box, and also fill the hump on the top.  If I can get a good cut, there will be minimal gaps that can't be filled with epoxy before I cover in protective heat shielding.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/10/21 4:37 p.m.

Did a bit of electrical work today, figuring out the schematics and prepping for installation once I get the materials for my center console - a thick piece of FR4 fiberglass - a material that's easy to work with, comes in black, cheap, and is pretty rigid (much stiffer than ABS of similar thickness).

Installed an aux fuse box with 6 connectors - 1) gauges, 2) SPAL fan, 3) electric defogger fan - the rest are spares.  The relay next to it is for the SPAL fan, and another will be installed for the electric defogger fan.

Spent more time than I'd like installing connectors so I can work on things without having to rewire constantly.  These aren't bad once you get used to how they go together - they're waterproof and if soldered, are good connectors.

I did some testing with the connectors, and made sure it all worked in my living room, using a battery jump starter - much easier than having to test in the car and rewire if it was wrong. Not sure my wife was happy about it though :)  Used my old center dash vent panel for testing - you can see my cardboard template for the center console in the background.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/11/21 5:48 p.m.

Had a bit of success tonight on a buddies bandsaw to cut the elbow to match up to the box in place of the stock looking hose fitting.  Turned out pretty close - will fine tune it with my belt sander to get it perfect from here, then epoxy it into place, and cover back up with heat shielding.

 

 

84FSP
84FSP UltraDork
1/12/21 1:45 p.m.

I like your ducting work - very clean.  Curious to hear if the foil makes an appreciable difference in AIT numbers.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/12/21 1:50 p.m.
84FSP said:

I like your ducting work - very clean.  Curious to hear if the foil makes an appreciable difference in AIT numbers.

Thanks - I'll know soon, but I figured it can't hurt and its likely going to be much better than most CAI on the market.  I'll figure out where to route the other end once I get the headlights on, and know how much room I have to route additional ducting to a clean outside source of air.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/13/21 9:33 a.m.

After some of the most toxic epoxy I've used, I was able to get a solid connection between the new duct attachment and airbox.  Not the prettiest, but definitely will work and is strong enough for any stress put on the box from the various connections.  I'll probably remove a little excess epoxy but not too concerned about how this looks.

 

I mounted it to test fit, and its almost perfect but will require some major cutting back on the silicone connectors so that the entire path fits within the stock space between the throttle body and airbox - the MAF is larger than stock so length is now the challenge but I think I can make it work.  Will post the pic of the full path once I have them trimmed and setup.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/17/21 5:04 p.m.

Spent a lot of time sorting wiring.

I made a new harness that combined the SPAL, all gauges, and relays, and associated grounds and it includes all power and grounds at the gauge pods and new center console/panel I mocked up.  I have 2 relays to run my SPAL and new defogger, and a 6 terminal fuse box wired into the main power.  I used water proof multi-pin connectors throughout to make it easy to remove everything.  I'll add some pics later.

My center console will have the following:

  • 4 gauges (oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, volt - the first 3 have a tri-alert warning system so they don't need to be watched but are good for evaluating/monitoring off track and tuning.  may add fuel pressure later if I can't tap into ecu for this.
  • accessory power toggle
  • kill switch
  • window toggles
  • hazard toggle
  • warning light toggle
  • SPAL fan toggle
  • defogging/heater toggle
  • brake bias knob

Still figuring how to layout various items - this pic shows the initial fitting before I mount any toggles or gauges.  This is cut from the same material I used on the door cards but a little thicker - a FR4 fire resistant panel.  Not sure if I'll cover it or just leave it as-is, and I may cut a copy from aluminum to see which is less harsh on the eye in sun or hard to see at night (for drives home from the track). 

I'll attach the base to the trans tunnel with a hinge so I can flip it forward if I want to disconnect things.   The top portion that replaced the center vents has 2 brackets behind it to attach at the top, and just below that another stock location (you can see a hole) - I'll make a small bracket from aluminum to span the gap but that should make it pretty sturdy.

SPAL is done, and started to figure out oil cooler location - will post some pics once that's done, along with the radiator overflow tank, etc.

 

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/20/21 3:16 p.m.

Did the drilling and cut out the gauge holes, test fit things, and am pretty close to installing.  Need to find a small bracket I can use to run an extra pull cable to the kill switch, and install the starter button still.  Will organize all wires by installing clips to the back, and 2 distribution bats for ground and misc power.

 

dcteague
dcteague Reader
1/21/21 5:12 p.m.

For the console, and wrapped up the SPAL install.

Also test fit the oil cooler.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
2/3/21 8:22 p.m.

Finished off most of the wiring, a pain.  Also installed the paddle style horn button to avoid running wires thru the hub.  I'll be testing this over the next few days, then start to focus on body work.

Also wired up the shift light and configured it with a battery charger.  Nice little unit.

Here's the steering wheel setup.

​​​​​​

Shift light.

 

 

 

 

 

dcteague
dcteague Reader
2/10/21 9:59 a.m.

Added a small panel to my shift light to hold warning lights for oil/water temp/pressures separate from the stock units - these run off a dedicated alert system linked into the 3 gauges with custom trigger points.  

I'll be installing this above the steering column once I can figure out how to increase the height so its visible over the steering wheel itself.  All of the wiring has been installed using a new harness that includes all of the various new wiring I've bundled to run the center panel, triggers, and lighting.

I'll post some pics of the center console and harness install once finished up.

dcteague
dcteague Reader
2/11/21 5:33 p.m.

Finished the center console, ready for install.

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