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Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/7/20 10:27 a.m.

In reply to AAZCD (Forum Supporter) :

Good information,  thanks for sharing! My broken crank is 9961015R, good to have more options. That failure had to be noisy.

docwyte
docwyte UberDork
6/7/20 11:14 a.m.

In reply to lnlogauge :

He did the swap because it's supposedly a more reliable motor than the stock one.

also didn't realize the cost of doing a swap.  Bear in mind the shop labor he pays is a fraction of what most of us will pay.

then it blows up still.  I've been there, done that and I'll never do a non native swap again.  The amount of time and money it costs to truly get the swap running correctly is immense

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/9/20 7:04 p.m.

I've sent the short block back.

Meanwhile, getting the gas tank cleaned out and ready for the replacement pickup and pump. The float had disentegrated.

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/12/20 8:26 p.m.

From the seller of the short block:

"After looking at the engine and where it came from, we found it was from a fire car. The valve covered were burned and melted that's where the melted metal was from. We are going to open it up and clean it up and sell it again."

It certainly looked like melted metal but I can't see how it got into the sump. Has anyone seen this?

AAZCD (Forum Supporter)
AAZCD (Forum Supporter) Dork
6/12/20 10:27 p.m.

In reply to Southpaw :

My guess is that melted metal got into the case from where the oil filler tube was burned off and any plastic internal parts above where the fluids could cool them would be ruined along with the integrity of the of the aluminum block. It's a flat six, Not a V, not inline. The valve covers are not going to find their way laterally through the heads and into the sump. Avoid that seller.

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/14/20 8:52 a.m.

Finished with the fuel tank/sender/pump. Frunk cleaned up well. Put compressed air to fuel lines, return line OK, realized supply line goes through fuel filter so clearing will have to wait on filter replacement.

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/14/20 3:34 p.m.

In reply to AAZCD (Forum Supporter) :

Your guess makes much more sense, thanks

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/29/20 7:38 p.m.

Let's try again

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/29/20 7:40 p.m.

50k mile engine from a 2000 Carrera, sump looks much better, oil was pretty clean, no debris

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/29/20 7:42 p.m.

Pretty sure the IMS bearing hasn't been addressed

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/29/20 7:57 p.m.

Already buttoned up the sump, I'll be replacing the usual items: water pump, thermostat (160°), AOS, spark plugs & tubes, front & rear crank seals; pondering IMS bearing plan, will at least take its front seal off and replace the flange seal

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/30/20 3:29 p.m.

Changing out the 2000 model e-gas throttle body for the 1999 cable throttle turned into replacing the entire engine harness, making progress though

Very cool project. Thanks for sharing.

white_fly
white_fly HalfDork
6/30/20 6:56 p.m.

In reply to Southpaw :

Is replacing the whole harness necessary for the cable throttle to work?

AAZCD (Forum Supporter)
AAZCD (Forum Supporter) Dork
6/30/20 7:30 p.m.

In reply to white_fly :

It's going to use a whole different DME (ECU) than the cable throttle (version 5.2.2 with a single connector for cable, ver 7.2 with 5 connectors for e-gas ) . Which means that the immobilizer module and key transponder will have to match the 7.2 DME (as a set) as well. The other way to go is to keep the original electronics and swap the intake and throttle body from the old engine to the new. I don't know the details of that well enough on the 3.4L to know what might trip up the process. I did the reverse on my Challenge Boxster putting a cable throttle engine in a e-gas car. I had read in a few places that it wouldn't work, so I quit reading and just did it. Since then, I think two guys on the 986 Forum put 2.7L e-gas engines in their 2.5L cable cars by swapping the intake set-up.

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
6/30/20 7:37 p.m.

In reply to white_fly :

There are different connectors for the throttle body. That started me examining to see if I could switch connectors. When I looked at the 2 large connectors that plug into the main harness, I saw some differences. I really didn't want to switch the harness but didn't see that I had a choice unless I wanted to tear into it.

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
7/3/20 7:12 p.m.

AOS, T-stat and water pump replaced, throttle body and wiring harness switched out, waiting on parts to minimize oil leaks, making a cam lock tool so I can safely inspect the infamous IMS bearing, gratuitous pic of new shiny bits:

Dammit
Dammit Reader
7/4/20 1:03 p.m.

My 3.7 is made from a new 3.2 shortblock that we got from Porsche then machined out the existing cylinder liners and replaced with 100mm bore Nikasil liners, closing the deck at the same time. The 3.2 crank and cams are identical to the 3.4, I used the crank and will use the cams after significantly re-grinding them. The heads are standard VarioCam 3.4's that have been extensively ported and flowed, with 1mm larger diameter valves and new springs/retainers and tappet chests.

In terms of how to make these engines survive on track, I'd say that the X51 (or equivalent, the correct X51 part is NLA) dual-stage scavenge pump for the right hand bank is essential, as it an X51 metal-baffled sump. Putting those together stops the oil pooling at the front of the right hand head, and helps to prevent the oil pick-up from being uncovered.

IMSB is obviously a third-rail type subject, my new engine has the final, too-large to remove without splitting the case design, but my current engine has the standard dual-row bearing with the seals removed.

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
7/4/20 2:47 p.m.

Yesterday I freed up the ignition switch with some CRC electric contact cleaner.  Before, it wouldn't reliably turn to on or start.  I got the radio unlocked thanks to one of the Rennlist gurus.  Today's task was to make a tool for locking bank 1 cams so I can safely inspect the IMS bearing, trial fit here on a spare head.  It's not pretty but it works.  The screws are holding a second piece to get a 4mm thickness centered in the cam slot.  Removing the cam plug in the end of the head allows the tool to engage the exhaust cam, locking it in place.  

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
7/4/20 3:17 p.m.

In reply to Dammit :

Plan A on the IMSB is to verify that it's good (hopefully), remove the outer seal and replace the flange seal.

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
7/4/20 3:33 p.m.

A couple pics from when I got it home and cleaned up

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
7/10/20 7:15 p.m.

Back to work, getting closer to installation

Southpaw
Southpaw New Reader
7/10/20 7:24 p.m.

Got a couple of parts orders in today, leaking seal behind crank pulley replaced, spark plugs and tubes/seals ready to go, then on to RMS replacement and IMS inspection

I understand the 996 is relative quiet so I'm planning to do a PSE/Fister-style hack on my mufflers, adding 1 1/2" bypass pipes, should look like this when done

preach
preach Reader
7/10/20 7:36 p.m.

It amazes me how much exhaust Porsche can shove in the rear engine/mid engined cars. My cayman has 4 cats and 2 mufflers.

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