In reply to AnthonyGS :
Let me know what parts you're going to have for sale, might need something for mine.
For some reason I always buy the cheapest example of a car that I can find rather than a nice one, guess I'm just too cheap to spend much money on a project. I attribute it to my desire to have several projects at once, so I spread my money around rather than focus on just one thing.
It's funny that this came up, I saw this up here in seattle last week, but I don't have the space to work on a project right now :( I bet you could negotiate down below challenge pricing- https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/d/bellevue-1992-eagle-talon-tsi-turbo-awd/7013912724.html
In reply to LifeIsStout :
I'd love to have a set of those Evo 8 Enkei's for mine.
In reply to LifeIsStout :
Waaayyyy to close to home.... That's challenge car for the PNW!
LifeIsStout said:It's funny that this came up, I saw this up here in seattle last week, but I don't have the space to work on a project right now :( I bet you could negotiate down below challenge pricing- https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/d/bellevue-1992-eagle-talon-tsi-turbo-awd/7013912724.html
I saw that one too but its a bit too far for me.
untchabl said:Is there a difference between the AWD and the FWD gas tanks? My tank looks pretty rough inside so I wanted to make sure I get the right tank if I find a used one.
I'm about 95% sure they are different because of the rear diff in the AWD. You're going to want to call Miller Import Parts in Kannapolis, NC. They are a DSM junkyard. I went to college with the owner, Stevie. You should start making a parts list and head over to his yard. He has it all.
untchabl said:In reply to AnthonyGS :
Let me know what parts you're going to have for sale, might need something for mine.
For some reason I always buy the cheapest example of a car that I can find rather than a nice one, guess I'm just too cheap to spend much money on a project. I attribute it to my desire to have several projects at once, so I spread my money around rather than focus on just one thing.
I will definitely let you know what spares I have and we should probably share what we learn as we go too. I am totally new to DSMs. I just remembered them as fast from my SIR (pacific raceways) and bremerton days when I was in the Navy. Then I realized they are challenge budget now.... and radwood so....
I've also decided to start enjoying my hobbies more, and letting my managers worry about all the work instead of trying to do it all myself.
So I would like to try to get the engine running so that I can make sure the transmission is good. What do all the DSM guys say about running the engine for a short time on the current timing belt? I'm sure the engine will not run well due to many vacuum leaks from dry rotted/split hoses. Just trying to get an idea of the condition of everything before I start throwing money at new parts such as timing belt, water pump, radiator, hoses, gaskets, clutch, TOB, etc, etc.
Another issue, the clutch pedal is on the floor. Is this a simple fix to just bleed the clutch hydraulics to get it working well enough to test the transmission with the car up on jackstands?
I get your desire to start it, and am no DSM expert, but I'd be scared the belt could break and lead to piston valve meeting.
I would personally try to start it-but that's how I got an engine full of acorns so listening to me is probably a bad idea. If your clutch pedal is on the floor you need either a clutch master, slave, hose, or all 3.
In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
Yes, this guy is legend. I have ordered alot from Miller. Good dude.
In regards to the spark situation. I had on one of my 2G GST a coil on plug setup that plugged in and used Chrysler 2.7 coils which came with the plate as well to bolt on. Was awesome.
Got it on ebay some years ago. Just did a search and they show up mostly for EVO's, but more or less the same.
I say start it up. Given the unknown history of the engine, you may go through knuckle bustin' hell to start the car only to find out it has major engine issues (rod knock, for example). I've done this before and it's deflating. To the point it could stall the project.
Here's what I'd do. Top off the oil and coolant. Pull the plugs and spin the engine over a few times by hand (a 1/2" socket fits inside the crank bolt) and make sure it spins freely. Check out the timing marks to ensure everything lines up. Visually inspect the timing belt and look down in there to make sure nothing is obscuring the timing belt path (twigs, acorns, etc.). Charge the battery and cross your fingers. Start it.
If the vacuum system scares you, it shouldn't. There are multiple write ups on DSMtuners to simplify the vacuum system and some part store vacuum lines will clean it up pronto.
Disclaimer: you're taking advice from a Roadkill level mechanic who engineers dirt for a living.
In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
Engine spins over freely, I've already done a compression test and put some ATF in the cylinders.
The unknown condition of the engine & trans is why I want to start it. See if it has rod knock and see if the transmission will shift. Feel like I've got nothing to lose by trying to start it and afterwards I'll have a better idea of what I've got.
WHats the timing belt look like? good condition or cracking and dry? Contaminated from oil or coolant? If it looks happy and the engine turns over freely, watch all the pullys and make sure they also all turn freely. If at that point you havent seen any red flags, i'd give it a start with fingers crossed.
Agreed on cranking the engine over and then starting with caution.
For clutch hydraulics, you could save a lot of money with used OEM parts (Miller has em I bet) and they are generally better than a new aftermarket part. Bleeding and adjusting the clutch is key, though you cant really do that until the engine is running.
You'll need to log in to post.
