In reply to RacetruckRon :
it's getting crowded in Bonertown right now!
In reply to RacetruckRon :
it's getting crowded in Bonertown right now!
Clearanced the dash a little bit to accommodate the steering column and stuck the pedals, seat and shifter in the truck.
Yesterday was the drop the truck down, roll it outside, pull the bed off, roll it back inside and jack it back up day. Say that really fast without taking a breathe. I enlisted the troops to help manhandle the bed. We used the engine hoist to do the heavy lifting but a couple extra set of hands are always helpful to minimize the danger factor.
Hotness!
Today's project was to replace this crusty old fuel pump assembly with something less rusty full of AN fittings.
Since parts I could not for the life of me find a replacement for the truck fuel pump, I had to get creative. Mitsubishi engineers weren't proactive enough to make two different sized fuel pump top hats that look the same were they? I gambled on this cheap eBay 1G DSM fuel pump assembly and it paid off. The OD and bolt pattern are exactly the same but the fuel pump holder is shorter than the truck but nothing a little cut and weld won't fix.
Path for the feed line has been determined, Corvette filter regulator installed, I'll make the lines tomorrow and then move onto the brake lines.
It looks like a toy without the bed on there..
I bet traction and handling will be your nemesis when its all done and on the road!
Nice work.
Greg
In reply to slantsix :
I know traction is going to be an issue, I'm hoping handling will come with time and testing.
Here's another side adventure in the name of 30 year old parts availability. These little clips help hold the grill on, I have 2 of the like 8 that I need. I ordered some that were supposed to work but they are a little different, I ordered another set but who know when those will show up. So 20 minutes in CAD, 5 minutes of printer prep and less than a dollar in material for 10 of them. These are on the machine right now, I'm hoping these turn out well with these new engineering resins I have for my SLA machine.
OEM vs eBay (left/right)
10 of them queued up on the printer. Just under 4 hours print time, these higher grade resins print a little slower than the ABS-like resin I normally use.
Fuel system - check. I need to do a little bit of hose management but the lines are made and tightened up. I installed a new a fuel level sender fresh from Thailand to replace the 30 year old crusty one. New monoleaf hardware, brake lines, exhaust and a little bit of wiring is left before the bed goes back on.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Why monoleaf hardware? I see coil-overs.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I don't like the proximity of the coil spring to the half shafts. Those will just be used as dampers and the monoleaf will do the springamathingy. Also going back to a point made when I first put the IRS on here the spring and the damper attach to two separate points on the rear knuckle. Right now all of that force is going into one point that was designed for half that load, these knuckles have been known to crack with coilover cars. I don't want to hit a pothole and have my suspension explode when I gap some fool on the way back from Menards with a bed full of plywood and tewbafurs.
RacetruckRon said:I don't want to hit a pothole and have my suspension explode when I gap some fool on the way back from Menards with a bed full of plywood and tewbafurs.
That's no joke.
RacetruckRon said:In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Also going back to a point made when I first put the IRS on here the spring and the damper attach to two separate points on the rear knuckle. Right now all of that force is going into one point that was designed for half that load, these knuckles have been known to crack with coilover cars.
Yep. I'm glad you are aware of that.
Resin printer for the win! These clips turned out awesome! These were printed with a blend of 2 different Siraya Tech resins, Blu and Tenacious mixed at 70/30 respectively.
After support removal and some minor filing they fit perfectly.
Good to see the steady progress on this thing! On that filter-regulator thing, they suck, and not in a good way; it will more than likely give you mysterious problems that will piss you off (inconsistent, in other words). This has been proven a million times (including regular dealer service on C5s), but there is a good and cheap solution: a Chinese adjustable regulator from eBay for like 30 bucks or so (I say this wearing my Sloppy Mechanics shirt). Set it for 50 pounds or so, and you're good; run a vacuum line to it when you do a turbo.
The monoleafs rule. There are very few legit reasons to replace them with sub-par coilovers (or coilovers of any kind), however many people decide that this is a must (includes every era through C7). Many different weights are still available for all Corvettes.
Isn't the monoleaf a progressive rate spring in this sort of application? There was an article about this very subject in the magazine a couple of years ago I think. They can work, it makes sense here, but there's definitely a reason why folks consider coilovers.
rustomatic said:Good to see the steady progress on this thing! On that filter-regulator thing, they suck, and not in a good way; it will more than likely give you mysterious problems that will piss you off (inconsistent, in other words). This has been proven a million times (including regular dealer service on C5s), but there is a good and cheap solution: a Chinese adjustable regulator from eBay for like 30 bucks or so (I say this wearing my Sloppy Mechanics shirt). Set it for 50 pounds or so, and you're good; run a vacuum line to it when you do a turbo.
I'm going to give the filter regulator a shot. I do have a Matt Happel spec ebay regulator in a bin somewhere if this thing doesn't work out. This truck will not be turbo'd. There is not enough room in this thing for a cage and if it were to ever get a turbo it would most certainly need a cage.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:Isn't the monoleaf a progressive rate spring in this sort of application? There was an article about this very subject in the magazine a couple of years ago I think. They can work, it makes sense here, but there's definitely a reason why folks consider coilovers.
I'm going to give the monoleaf a shot, I can always upgrade to nice coilovers in the future but that probably won't happen if I'm honest. I'm a cheapskate and honestly this truck is probably way more machine than I am driver, at least at the given moment. This truck is almost a 5 year project. I've had this thing through 2 and a half of the toughest years of school, several girlfriends and 3 different houses, I just want to drive it at this point.
Started running hardline for the brakes this weekend. Still have a few flares to make, some p clips to install and to make some mounting brackets for the soft lines.
I drew a nice picture on the wall to keep the routing for the power steering and hydroboost straight. Going the AN route for the power steering lines. I found some braided teflon lined line that is rated for 2500psi working pressure and 10ksi burst pressure. That should be plenty for power steering.
I need to do some deep googling and find radiator hoses with two different diameters. My lower hose needs to connect 1.5" and 1.75" fittings and the upper hose needs to be 1.25" and 1.5" on either end.
RacetruckRon said:Today's project was to replace this crusty old fuel pump assembly with something less rusty full of AN fittings.
I recently did a gas tank swap on my e30 and tried using a different hanger assembly (in an attempt to ditch the twin pump sytem of low pressure lift to high pressure inline) and had to monkey around with the hanger outlets pointing in different directions. I can't believe I didn't think of just using bulkhead ANs. Man, sometimes I just feel stupid. Thanks for the idea!
Love the progress on this thing. For rad hoses I have better luck cutting up old hoses or bending a piece of TIG rod and heading to the FLAPS with my mock ups vs trying to google stuff. If they will let you dig thru their stock on your own, I almost always come up with something that will fit or at least close enough to trim
gumby (Forum Supporter) said:Love the progress on this thing. For rad hoses I have better luck cutting up old hoses or bending a piece of TIG rod and heading to the FLAPS with my mock ups vs trying to google stuff. If they will let you dig thru their stock on your own, I almost always come up with something that will fit or at least close enough to trim
FLAPS?? I did find this morning that Summit you can filter radiator hoses by the size of each end so I'm pouring over pages of those to find something close
Friendly Local Auto Parts Store.
My biggest issue with searching online is I can't see the 3d variations and twists in the hose looking at pics on screen.
Learned a new word today. I ordered two $7 hoses from rockauto so if those don't work out I'll go make friends with the guys at zippyzone down the road.
Radiator installed today, I'm still waiting on some rubber padding for the lower mount. I got to play with my new rivet nut tool, these things are awesome.
Working my way through the power steering and brake lines. Spent some time last night laying under the truck trying to figure out exhaust routing. Lots of options, do I do a Y pipe and stick a single 4" out the side behind the passenger door? Or do I run two pipes all the way back and try and snake them around the IRS and gas tank? I'm leaning towards the y pipe and side dump option which would use very little of this pile of 409SS tubing.
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