99 camry le 2.2

I was going to cut pipie close to flex pipe and put coupling on later or eliminate the converters.unless theres a way to get that flex pipe loose.

Any suggestions? I want to paint all that stuff and itll give me more room.all these dang plug ins are dry rotted.

In reply to hobiercr:

Do i got to pull the front shock loose to get trans loose to pull motor? I havent got a book on car yet.just getting all the stuff off iknow will make easier.im gona have to jack car up about 2ft hook motor then lower car because all ill have is chain and comalong.

Can i upload pictures from phone pretty easy on here?

In reply to ilovevintage:

I upload them to my facebook, right click, copy image URL. Then I click on the camera icon here and paste the URL into the drop box.

I'm sure there are a few different ways those more computer savvy than myself could explain but that's how I do it.

This thing i think has 2 converters and does it have one in manifold too?

How much could i get if i scraped the two under the car?

I think im going to put straight pipe not worried about engine light.will that mess with my back pressure,or could it run better?

There are two cats. One just south of the manifold (fairly good stock header on that year Camry) and one after the flex pipe. We gutted our 2nd cat and lost the first one when we added a header. Pull em, it won't matter as long as you don't have to pass emissions.

Dry rotted plugs/connectors. Yep, they all just disintegrate. Don't worry about trying to get the harness off before you pull the motor, do it after. Just disconnect the one harness end from the fuse box (you must disassemble the fuse box) and the other end from inside the car from behind the dash and pull it through the firewall grommet. This is MUCH easier to do when the interior is already stripped.

You do not have to pull any shocks to get the motor out. Get the harness unplugged and lay it on the top of the motor, pull the axles, disconnect the shift linkage, drop the exhaust, pull the radiator, pull the air intake box, disconnect the heater hoses and anything else in the way. Hold the motor up with hoist while the car is up on jackstands and pull the front and rear (under the car) engine mounts. The rear one is a bitch to realign, btw. If you can, get a dolly under the motor pull the right and left motor mounts and lower the motor and tranny assembly onto the dolly. Now hook the hoist to a chain across the front crossbars and raise the front of the car high enough (pretty high) to get the motor/tranny out. Bringing the motor/tranny out the top is really tough unless you have a good pivot mount.

Once it is out it is much easier to separate, etc. If you get a used motor I'd pull the injectors and check the seals BEFORE you put the motor in the car. It is a PITA in the car.

In reply to hobiercr:

Sounds good.i was just wondering.ill get a book next week.i really want to clean all the inside under hood while i got motor out.im thinking about getting some paint for later.thinking about jet black with metalic or dark neon green with metalic,but really want to take the bumpers off and door panels.

Is there a good place i can order some pretty paint.dont want to spend over 100 a gallon?

If im gona do motor mise well do the body work and paint.it does need work on body,but the metal is so thin should be easy to fix.

Im not gona race it or dog.really just need a ride for work.riding in the bed of truck is starting to get cold.

The manual helps a ton. Also the front bumper and fenders come off really easy on the Celica so the Camry should be similar.

Paint? No clue. I only use rattle cans from HD.

These cars are so plentiful I wouldn't even do body work if you can get replacement panels from a junk yard.

In reply to hobiercr:

You saying i have to separate wiring harness first.i might have to clip it.you was saying something about pulling through firewall.i wonder when i get motor if i only get block for the 150 guess i need to find out.might not even get head.any of you know how pull apart works?do i got to take acesserys off too or do they charge me for that?

In reply to hobiercr:

The hood ,roof,trunk,and three doors like mint.one door has dent,front fender looks like some kinda aftetmarket really thin and flexing,and one handle plastic broke.they must have bondo on rear fender just didnt get right straight before painting.just tring to get scoop on some paint.my dad said they use to put flex agent for painting the fiberglass then on this boat site guys said you dont need flex agent now because paint so good so dont know.

Ive got plenty of time.just like some info before jumping right in.ive bondo before and sanded but really dont want to use cans anymore.want to try a sprayer.

I meant 100 a quart.you guys think a quart will do it.ill do clear later.

ilovevintage wrote: In reply to hobiercr: You saying i have to separate wiring harness first.i might have to clip it.you was saying something about pulling through firewall.i wonder when i get motor if i only get block for the 150 guess i need to find out.might not even get head.any of you know how pull apart works?do i got to take acesserys off too or do they charge me for that?

Unhook the engine wiring harness from the fuse box (underhood) and from inside the car behind the dash. Do not cut the harness as there are a ton of wires that you would have to reconnect and the potential for problems would be huge. The manual will explain how to unhook it properly.

If you buy a motor from a pick and pull it may or may not come with accessories but I am guessing it does not.

In reply to hobiercr:

Ok thanks ill probly be looking tomarrow for motor just to see whats out there.if i take timing cover off you think there be anyway to see if belt was replaces soon.id hate to put motor in and not a timing belt.wonder where water pump is.definetly need to go get book.last 4cy i did waterpump and did timing belt too since right there.

I'm sorry to say but it appears like you have a lot of drive but not much experience with major automotive projects ( not that I do either!).

I'm only going by the types of questions you are asking. And I could be wrong.

If I were in your shoes, I'd try to get the same motor that came out and see how you do with that. Then after you gain the experience, try a more involved swap.

That said, I'm assuming a lot in this post so I apologize in advance if I'm off base here.

ebonyandivory wrote: I'm sorry to say but it appears like you have a lot of drive but not much experience with major automotive projects ( not that I do either!).

Big projects usually take big amounts of time, small ones usually take less time. (I hinted at that in the first thread.) Unless someone is insane - and many GRMers might be - it is usually better to start with a small project; long ones tend to be harder to finish just because they get discouraging.

Ok guys dont think im nuts but i junked it for 275 got a nice battery and stereo and today bought a 96 firebird with the 3800 motor in it for 490 and its pretty clean just motor knocking .atleast i made it home thi. Time.ill start new thread.