Andy's Challenge Builds - Good Times Racing

In reply to Patrick :

It’s beyond repair at this point. The guys at work turned down attempting to TIG weld it. Has a 3” crack and two ears popped off when I tossed it in frustration. I’ll sell it to Calvin cheap so he can practice his skills. 

I already have another on the way. Still neither have been super cheap. I wish the muscle car oil pan worked with the RX7 subframe. 

Painting the rear subframe Good Times Racing Blue. Didn’t do a great job of preparing it and it was cold hopefully it doesn’t flake too bad.

Also painted the diff, wish there was money in the budget for stiffer bushings for the subframe and differential. 

Can you just fill the voids in those mounts with some epoxy or silicone or wood.

Found this picture of my LT1 RX7 from 2009. Actual picture was from the guy I sold it to, but it popped up on my Facebook memories from today. 

In reply to akylekoz :

The rubber isn’t in bad shape on the stock mounts and I’m definitely trying to add $0 to the budget before I have a running car. 

Small win today, did not break the new oil pan while installing.  Not sure how to budget oil pan(s) now, as the first one came with the windage tray and pickup tube and the new one did not and was more costly.

Found some more things to struggle with finding, supposedly my truck exhaust manifolds won't work with the RX7. People recommend Fbody ones but I'm finding extremely high prices and can't find anyone who has used cheaper newer corvette or camaro manifolds. 

Still progress has been slow, been dealing with some lower back pain this winter and struggling to be motivated to do things. Good news is nothing is structurally wrong, just a heavy does of PT exercises every day. 

Try eBay block hugger headers. I was shocked to find you can buy a pair brand new, with gaskets, for less than the cost of a single used F-body stock cast unit.

(Note: it's probably made from pure Chineseium)

you just broke the oil pans while installing? I think you're probably fine to just budget the first one (as long as you didn't buy it broken). You are including a functionally equivalent oil pan in the budget and the build. 

In reply to Robbie :

Yes, unfortunately for me learning is happening by doing and sometimes I've been doing wrong. Did you know you should read really close when one torque setting is ft/lb and the other is in/lb?  

In reply to Indy-boy:

I'll see if I can find a cheap set that will work, I'll at least give one $60-80 set a chance. Then a second chance with a hammer. 

Budget the first pan and delete all mention of it

Either way how much did each one cost?  

Here's an example ($65.55 shipped for the pair):

Linky to example item

In reply to Patrick :

$160 for a used F Body pan with the tray and pickup tube. 

$169 New pan. 

My vote would be you bought what you needed, accidentally broke it, bought a functional replacement.  You’re being penalized already by having to outlay the cash twice, and your new pan isn’t a performance benefit.  You already had the camaro pan, not like you “accidentally” overtorqued the van pan and went out and got the camaro pan for the swap.

Made an offer on a new to me house yesterday. If I end up buying it I won’t be able to finish the RX7 this year. The lot backs up to the same creek that goes by my work so I could potentially kayak to work. 

Are you renting now or just looking to get into watersports?

In reply to Patrick :

Just wanted a slightly larger house in a more secluded area and closer to work. The nice part is the house in actually up on a hill enough not to be in a flood zone. Will have to get the current house ready to sell. 

In reply to Patrick :

Going to try that passkey bypass on the wiring you mentioned in the other thread. 

Do you still have the r earend apart?  If so, slot the dif mounts a bit.  You will probably need to to get the pinion angle correct.

Also, while you are 8n there, add a pinion snubbed right above the diff.  Have it actually touching the diff.  This will help wheelhop and protect the diff.  Those front mounts break all the time without the snubber. 

Google it.  There is actually a dimple in the chassis right where you are supposed to install it.

In reply to wvumtnbkr :

Which diff mounts should I slot?

I still have it off the car so I’ll order a pinion snubber/bump stop for the differential. 

This is has been an interesting project, I keep finding more little things I’ll need and having to wait on parts to come in. I’m always double checking to make sure I have the parts delivered to work. My wife seems to think I spend more than the challenge budget when parts arrive at home. 

In reply to Andy Neuman :

The front diff mount.  It is held onto the subframe with 2 nuts and bolts.  It will probably need to go down iirc.  I think you need to lengthen the slots of the holes on the subframe deeper.

It should make sense when you look at it.

Looks like I’m buying a house. Now I need to sell a house.

One of us is already packed up to go to the new house. 

Congrats on the new place. I think I still have an extra pinion snubber laying around somewhere that you can have if you want it.

Andy Neuman said:

In reply to Patrick :

It’s beyond repair at this point. The guys at work turned down attempting to TIG weld it. Has a 3” crack and two ears popped off when I tossed it in frustration. I’ll sell it to Calvin cheap so he can practice his skills. 

I already have another on the way. Still neither have been super cheap. I wish the muscle car oil pan worked with the RX7 subframe. 

 

Crap, wish I saw this sooner. I broke an ear off my pan on install and had a guy I used to work with weld it back on. I'm sure he wouldn't mind doing another for cheap/free. Probably beyond repair at this point, though.

In reply to Furious_E :

I think I have 97% of the things I need right now except the time needed to put it together.