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corytate
corytate SuperDork
1/8/13 8:58 p.m.

gotcha; found the BGB, should help alot!

after we get the trans separated, going to get the engine on the stand, put the strut back in one side and roll the car outside to clean it up and rust converter/rustproof it, then roll it back in and strip the suspension out too.
Going to try to start autocrossing the DD so I can race something while I work on this car, already have the used 15" rs3's I got for the datsun, so I'll just get some cheap spare 15's for the kia and roll with them!
any ideas for classing for a pretty much stock car, just have an exhaust, lowering springs (going to be coilovers soon), and I'll probably be getting a rear sway bar as well.
I believe the car is in H Stock as a stock car, does it move up one class, or should I just shoot for a fwd prepped/mod classes? cant remember what its called, I think it was one of the street prepared classes though.

Matt B
Matt B Dork
1/9/13 9:14 a.m.

It's actually an E stock car when outfitted as such. Exhaust is fine there, but the springs will put you in STS with the Miatas and CRXs. Depending on who your running with, they can be pretty competitive regionally in those classes. Nationally their outgunned by newer, lighter, more powerful machinery until you start modding them pretty seriously (DP, XP, etc)

corytate
corytate SuperDork
1/9/13 7:36 p.m.
Matt B wrote: It's actually an E stock car when outfitted as such. Exhaust is fine there, but the springs will put you in STS with the Miatas and CRXs. Depending on who your running with, they can be pretty competitive regionally in those classes. Nationally their outgunned by newer, lighter, more powerful machinery until you start modding them pretty seriously (DP, XP, etc)

are you speaking of the mr2 or my DD?
I'm planning on autoxing my DD (10 kia forte with springs (soon coilovers) and an exhaust)
If it hasnt changed since the 10 solo rules, it was a h stock car, which it should be pretty competitive in. dunno what the exhaust and coilovers would put it in, I plan on adding some boost eventually too =]

pinchvalve
pinchvalve UltimaDork
1/9/13 8:42 p.m.

Been there, done that.

Cardomain

There are specialty sockets for the head, but don't waste your money. Buy these from Harbor Freight instead (but in Metric of course):

A spline drive set runs $12 and they work perfectly. Invest in some ARP bolts, they are good insurance. They come in handy for lots of other stuff as well.

One other thing, when you remove the hydraulic lifters and shims, they have to go back in the same place...so keep track and mark properly.

Feel free to ask me if you come up against anything, I have the BGB and figured out most things the hard way. You might also want to remove all skin from your knuckles now to save time later.

corytate
corytate SuperDork
1/9/13 9:05 p.m.
pinchvalve wrote: Been there, done that. Cardomain There are specialty sockets for the head, but don't waste your money. Buy these from Harbor Freight instead (but in Metric of course): A spline drive set runs $12 and they work perfectly. Invest in some ARP bolts, they are good insurance. They come in handy for lots of other stuff as well. One other thing, when you remove the hydraulic lifters and shims, they have to go back in the same place...so keep track and mark properly. Feel free to ask me if you come up against anything, I have the BGB and figured out most things the hard way. You might also want to remove all skin from your knuckles now to save time later.

fantastic! I'll probably go buy the spline drive set tomorrow then! I'd like to get the engine on a stand and start disassembly monday.
I should be fine with the shims and lifters, I'm used to doing the same with nissans at work so I'm in the habit. Already got some nissan oem touchup paint for marking components lol

I've also concluded I might as well go ahead and ARP everything, one less thing to worry about breaking when it gets some power lol
I went through the two's r us catalog last night and bookmarked a very large amount of parts.
looks like I'll be getting a 255lph (maybe just the 190 though) and the mounting kit from twosrus as well.
I'm going to ask a coworker with an ae86 if he'd like to part with his tps, and probably a couple other choice parts as well lol. I wish I could afford to buy his rebuilt, high compression 4age with 0 miles on it! maybe tax time...

pinchvalve
pinchvalve UltimaDork
1/10/13 7:47 a.m.

Good luck. Oh, and the head gasket can potentially be installed upside-down so watch out. The cylinder bores line up perfectly, but there is one oil passage that gets blocked, resulting in a leak. You'd have to pull the head and do it all over again. I don't know what kind of idiot would not pay attention to how the head gasket installs, but apparently I am that kind of idiot.

Matt B
Matt B Dork
1/10/13 9:11 a.m.
corytate wrote:
Matt B wrote: It's actually an E stock car when outfitted as such. Exhaust is fine there, but the springs will put you in STS with the Miatas and CRXs. Depending on who your running with, they can be pretty competitive regionally in those classes. Nationally their outgunned by newer, lighter, more powerful machinery until you start modding them pretty seriously (DP, XP, etc)

are you speaking of the mr2 or my DD?
I'm planning on autoxing my DD (10 kia forte with springs (soon coilovers) and an exhaust)
If it hasnt changed since the 10 solo rules, it was a h stock car, which it should be pretty competitive in. dunno what the exhaust and coilovers would put it in, I plan on adding some boost eventually too =]

My mistake - I was talking about the MR2.

Pinch - thanks for the heads-up on that spline drive!

corytate
corytate SuperDork
1/10/13 8:10 p.m.
pinchvalve wrote: Good luck. Oh, and the head gasket can potentially be installed upside-down so watch out. The cylinder bores line up perfectly, but there is one oil passage that gets blocked, resulting in a leak. You'd have to pull the head and do it all over again. I don't know what kind of idiot would not pay attention to how the head gasket installs, but apparently I am that kind of idiot.

I'm inclined to say that I can also potentially be that kind of idiot. lol
I do everything the hard way!

corytate
corytate SuperDork
1/14/13 7:53 p.m.

Great Success! Engine is on the stand. Trans is on the floor. looks gross

This was all I had time to do today; made a pretty big mess of it as well lol
dumped a good bit of coolant out, and accidentally knocked over the jug holding the nasty milkshake oil mix =/
Thursday, Friday, or Saturday, I'll put the strut back on, wheels back on, and roll it out to give Ben's garage a MUCH needed cleaning, and the car may get a cleaning as well if we have time to strip it down some more.
For this to happen, need to remove:
dash
doors
brake and cllutch master
the little bit of carpeting still in the car

corytate
corytate SuperDork
1/21/13 9:27 p.m.

got the car down on the ground again today so I can roll it out to clean up the garage and try to reorganize a bit while it's out.
My $500 snap-on heavy duty jack I bought a month ago already doesn't work, so I'll be having some words with the snap-on guy about how I had to use my $20 autozone jack instead=/
Also started engine disassembly, got the egr assy off (the tube, control valve, all the vacuum lines, everything off as one piece to make things easy)
got the harness pretty much removed (looks like I have to take the fuel rail out to get the harness away from the engine, it's trapped and can't pull either side through between the intake and the rail)
got the distributor off (it was so loose that you could, without loosening the two bolts that mount it, swing it back and forth. Easy timing adjustments for the full jdm effect!!
The spline sockets mentioned above weren't what I needed (unless they are needed for something else)
I needed a 14mm allen socket, which I bought the other day. surprisingly hard to find in 1/2 size for some reason...
Still have a lot more to do, and I keep finding new things it needs lol

oldeskewltoy
oldeskewltoy Dork
1/23/13 6:12 p.m.
corytate wrote: Also started engine disassembly,

4AGE engine.... How can I help

most 4AGE headbolts require 12point 10mm sockets.... you might need 3/8" drive stuff to fit.

corytate
corytate SuperDork
1/23/13 6:22 p.m.
oldeskewltoy wrote:
corytate wrote: Also started engine disassembly,

4AGE engine.... How can I help

amazing that you popped in here, at work today I actually read through a thread on (I think) club4ag that you were active in lol
I think it was where someone was discussing diy porting and reshaping. Lot of good info.
I'll definitely be picking your brain when I get myself into a pickle! lol
I'm going to try to get the engine disassembled entirely and start taking things down to work to clean up. I'll probably end up cleaning the casting marks and such with a dremel at work because we have been RIDICULOUSLY slow lately.
My plans right now are to just clean up the casting marks, port match, and measure everything several times to make sure everything is gonna mate up real nice.
I also have to find a fuel filler tube, because we had to cut the one in the car off to drop the tank=/

corytate
corytate SuperDork
1/23/13 6:29 p.m.

lost my train of thought and thought my reply was finished lol

I also got the spline drive set so I should be okay to get those bolts out, the bolts I can see right now (VC's not removed) are some giant ass allen 14mm bolts. I am now equipped to deal with either one of them though, so it's all good!

aaaaaanyway:
clean up the castings, get it running just as a stock 4age with arp fasteners where they're needed during the rebuild.
acquire a gze and proceed to build a "reliable" 4agte high rev big cam nasty race engine (lol)
=profit? (probably not)
I want to have some fun with it as a mostly stock car so getting it back to running mostly stock form is first.
gotta looooong ways to go right now

oldeskewltoy
oldeskewltoy Dork
1/23/13 6:33 p.m.

Dremel works fine...... avoid using the cutting bits if you are not experienced removing cast aluminum... I recommend using 1/4" and 1/2" diameter sanding drums... it'll take a bit longer but it'll be easier to shape. Foredom Supply sells sand drum mandrels that are long enough... about 1/8" longer then Dremel or other brands. I use 80 grit and 120 grit.

DONT TOUCH the Allen plugs!

Remove cam covers, remove cams, buried under the cams are 10 bolts... like I show above.

the Allen bolts are drillings into the casting... the ones deep between the spark plugs go into cooling galleys, while the ones place higher on the head afford access to the oiling areas of the head.

Dig through your BGB.. there is a particular loosening pattern to minimize any head warping issues. Also I recommend loosening the bolts as if you would tighten them... in 3 passes... The first pass you only move the wrench 1/8 turn, do all 10, and then another 1/8 turn. by the third pass the bolts will be loose

oldeskewltoy
oldeskewltoy Dork
1/23/13 6:42 p.m.

Once the bolts are removed... be careful to collect all ten washers. These washers are frequently forgotten and can cause all kinds of serious issues if forgotten.

Oh... yes... 5 short, 5 long

corytate
corytate SuperDork
1/23/13 8:17 p.m.

well damn! I'm glad I didn't just wing it and take the allen bolts out the other day lol!
maybe now is the point in time where I stop playing it by ear and start looking in the BGB for step by steps on what I do on the car=]
lol
Thanks!

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