shadows having a levitating effect!
shadows having a levitating effect!
so put together a sketch (like i do for all the fab work) of what i want to try for a rear wing. its sort of a combo between the near vertical duck bill/tail type and standard super car style. the near vertical (for autox) panel/wing will pivot from the top to a more normal angle for street, future track... the wing panels will be framed in 1" Al round and square tube, skinned with the .040 Al sheet i already have. using scrap roll cage material for the legs.
here are some pics of setting up to fab and tack the legs:
rig to pin point the ends of the legs:
using the angle to be a vertical plane to make the legs flush with teh plate that will be welded on later..
where the legs meet theframe:
used a couple of former A-pillar bar F-ups for support structure, tying into the rear cross member. eventually, i envision the radiator be framed in between the wing legs.
looking down from the top of the legs:
i am going to use 3/16 x 1 3/4" steel bar for the uprights that will attach to the legs - to which all the wing elements will eventually be secured too. its due to arrive tomorrow.. then off to my buddy who tig'ed the cage to get fully welded in.
we have an autocross event this weekend... obviously the wing portion will not be done so a plywood sheet may be used for prototyping.. lol..
Cool that looks like a pikes peak wing
In reply to Mad_Ratel :
thats a great example! better than i was able to find looking for what i had in my mind!
Suzuki Escudo pikes peak.
In reply to Go_Gators :
Makes sense on the gauge cluster. You can't put one thing where another thing is, and I guess the roll cage cross bar would lose a bunch of strength if you bent it sufficiently to clear a gauge cluster.
For the wing, have you thought about maybe making it removable? I think it will look badass, but if you drive it on the street, will it be annoying? I'm not sure the best way to make that happen though, since a large wing like that will likely generate some serious forces.
In reply to rothwem :
i plan on hinging the vertical wing component and then securing in the vertical position with welded tabs on the uprights. then, make a couple struts to prop it up in a less obtrusive angle for better highway manners... surely it will still not be much fun in a side wind situation... but, maybe i will actually be able to go full throttle in second gear with it in place.... bc as of now, it will break the tires loose at 50mph in second when you start giving towards 3/4 throttle....
I know exactly what you are going thru with getting creative with getting more rear camber......mine was with the front-end on my blazer........ the top a arm going down hill to the spindle so i made some new front spindles to get it to work right......... from what i can see you would have to drop the frame side down to get it close to level and then have to make sure it is shorter so when it is level you only have a small amount of camber but when you are in a corner you get camber gain and if and when you do try it go looking a the race car stuff they might have something that will work for you.
Keep up the great work
Check out the moveable rear wing on Keith Tanner's Targa Miata, I'm sure it's on here somewhere. Keith says it works really well and is very effective. Looks pretty cool when it transforms into a vertical air brake under braking, too! Relative to the side plates, one year at Pikes Peak Robby Unser had huge side plates on his open wheel car, the wind got really bad, and it was a handful. The next day the side plates were about half the size of the first day's practice.
In reply to Blazer178 :
thanks! yep, your line of thinking is right on with mine. i wont be doing anything anytime soon... but having the rear adjustable by shimming the top a-arm (like the front end) would be really nice. one consideration would be to cut out the mounting points and replace them with the arrangement found on the front of the car. donor front frame would be requried and i ahvent fully researched the potential challenges there.
In reply to Jim Pettengill :
i found the targa miata via google, but couldnt really figure out how it was quickly removable, there are enough variances from what i am doing though that i dont think what ever method he used would be replicable. i could flange it, but i dont think it will be necessary with the little i highway drive. agree, i dont think huge sideplates will be necessary nor worth street driving (mostly in a breezy coastal area) hassle and blind spots.
Mind sharing the link? I foudn the article on the car, but no mention or picture of a wing.
In reply to Mad_Ratel :
all i could find were google images searching 'Keith Tanner's Targa Miata rear wing'. nothing on its actual construction...
Ahh,
I was hoping it was more of a gurney flap design. I need a 90's style flap for my thunderbird.
I was looking at your design more, notice nearly all high rise spoilers on cars with actual power have four poles going up to the wing. I think your two may not be rigid enough when actual air hits the fan so to speak. (drag on the wing is going to bend the pipe just above where you braced it.)
Worth a try to see if it does not though.
In reply to Mad_Ratel :
maybe, but i doubt most folks use 1.75" tube for uprights (its just what i have on hand). that stuff is tough! you can grab one and rock the car back and forth easily and you dont feel much if any deflection. we'll see though!
event2. favorite. pic. yet. taken by Brandon Kilgour.
least. favorite. pic. yet.
I have autocrossed for ~8 years. Had my first technical issue on Sunday.
Buck (co-driving) and I were both experiencing loss of ignition when getting back on the throttle after heavy braking. Pretty sure that is what driving hondas feels like. This persisted for our first handful of runs. Eventually, the car just died completely coming through finish and I had to be pushed back to grid. I suspected a loose electrical ground, but they all looked secure. We opened to the battery box to check it and found quite a sight. It appears as though the restraint came loose, shorted between the positive terminal and chassis, welded itself in place. That short caused the negative terminal to melt into a pool. The negative cable was probably just barely touching the molten pool and when we hit the brakes it would lose contact causing the symptoms. Pic is worth a thousand words.
With lots of help and new battery, we were able to get back going.
Wow that could have ended a lot worse!
In reply to maschinenbau :
YES.
In reply to Go_Gators :
Just curious. Have you tried running it with the rear sway bars disconnected?
In reply to Ovid_and_Flem :
Event 1 i ran with the stock sway bars. Event 2, i removed the rear sway bar. it had more rear grip throughout turning, but still the limiting factor for maintaining speed through the course.
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