appreciate all the input.
i will def swap around the cushions on the seat and see how that feels, seems like i could gain an inch there.
will also proceed with reclining it back, that seems to be the consensus for low height vehicles.
i plan on letting alot of fellow autocrosser drive it, so i really dontwant a one size solution, like a foam seat. so, going to attempt solutions that retain sliders and a universal fit seat first. though if i were the only driver, thats seems like the way to go.
i forgot to post them, but here are some pics from this weekend.
If you decide you need ultra thin replacement padding and need a cheap option, yoga mats are thin, cheap, and usually surprisingly comfortable.
Oh my. I just discovered this thread. I think I have a new life goal. I need to find a salvage c5 stat!
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
solid idea, could even put them behind my removable seat cover.
In reply to prettybird :
they are plentiful and super easy to take apart. putting one back together would really suck though.
In reply to Go_Gators:
Re: Seat, Your seat is the problem. If removing the padding gets you low enough then great, if not, I had Kirkey build a combo from their 41 series and their 58LW. I love it, and have ordered the exact same thing several times for other cars. It's my go-to seat now. The combo gives me a 58LW bottom which has a nice curve to it, no need for a pad, even at the base, and the 41 series donates the side dimensions.
Re: Floor, The floor in those is sandwiched balsa wood. At 6'1", especially without a slider, you won't need to drop the floor.
Re: Cage, I would plan to build it so it will comply with the GCR. Even if you never care to compete with hillclimbs, or TT with it, a future buyer may, or you may change your mind, and that way your cage would have value to the next guy.
In reply to STALIZE :
will def keep the kirkey combo in mind. they arent expensive, i just dont want to spend more on seating at this time... if i switch to them, then i will have even more head clearance, which is a good thing now or down the road!
will review SCCA"s rules, they defiantly are more picky with respect to dimensions. I know the tube i have ordered complies, and i think NASA's standard is very similar. but yea, having it conform to both would be advantageous.
been working on a design for the cage that complies with NASA and SCCA. i think i am pretty close with this revision. both the door/forward hoops, door bars and overhead bar will bend up and out away from the occupants. obviously additional gussets/corner braces not shown, just trying to nail down a basic shape.
i have a quote for 1.75 DOM, 120 wall, about to hit go and watch ~$1200 fly out of my checking account.
anyone see any concerns?
I'm pretty sure that those rear diagonals need to be in plane with the backstays, for either ruleset, and your central overhead tube might not be legal either- what rules are you building to? Time trial/solo 1?
looking at NASA's CCR and SCCA's GCR, however i never intend to do wheel to wheel racing so their rules are more for guidance.
The rear x-brace isnt required by either rulebook, as far i can tell.
i dont see anything that would make the middle overhead illegal. though, i am not certain i will install it, etiher.. need to get a better idea about spacing, it would be among the last elements.
Just checked the GCR and CCR and looks like you're right- I've been looking at rally cages too much.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
yea, i looked at some of those too. much more comlex. i guess that they assume that a tree will eventually get in their way.
In reply to Go_Gators:
A few notes I remember:
-Main hoop can have no more than 4 bends
-Rear main hoop supports must be straight
-At least 2 door bars
Not sure about:
-whether the door bars should drop from the lowest door bar to the frame, I'm thinking that can go either way
-I'm not sure about the design of your overhead bars.
Before you begin you may want to ask around your club for the contact info of your local guy who issues logbooks and run your drawings by him. I will say that for the purpose of ordering material, you're close.
In reply to STALIZE :
yep, you pulled nearly the same highlights i did! one that could be close is atleast 30 deg between main hoop are rear braces. my rear shock tower is quite close to where the main hoop will align.
so, back to the seating height... it isnt elegant, but tilting up the front of the seat bracket reduced the height of the seat back by nearly 2 inches and the driving position is still comfy. i played around with seats removable cushions and i think replacing the base cushions with a yoga mat or similiar will net me another inch. i need to get someone to take another profile picture with me in teh car + helmet. but, i think i have dropped nearly 3 inches. which makes the main hoop height much more manageable. at some point i am going to remove the hardware store arrangement and weld on the seat brackets AGAIN to make the front feet out of tube. ...
speaking of tube. i have ordered $1200 worth of 1.75 tube from my local metals supermarket. i ordered 5 sticks of DOM 120 wall and 1 stick of DOM 065 wall and 1 stick of ERW 095 wall (stick being ~20ft). by god i hope that is enough. my tubing bender has been an ordeal. i ordered speedway motorsports $400 hydraulic bender. when i opened the boxes it was obviously used before and missing several large adn critical components. they paid for mailing it back and i should have the 'new' bender wednesday-ish.
In reply to Go_Gators:
Tubing: 1.75x120 wall DOM is correct for a car of that weight and if built correctly. Because an SCCA logbooked cage must maintain the same diameter and wall thickness throughout, you're only material can be the 1.75x120. ERW is not allowed in the GCR. Again, it may not matter to you, but the future marketability of that car if/when you decide to sell it is huge if the cage fits spec.
Seat: Good to hear that you're able to get lower in the car. It will certainly have a better look.
Bender: It is a mandrel bender, right?
In reply to STALIZE :
the ERW is for a lower radiator protector and probably front seat posts and other odds and ends that are not a roll cage!
the thin wall DOM i plan to use up front, something from the front axle to A-pillar, non required items and not integrated into the actaul cage...
bender is hydraulic jack powered, i orderd an air/hyd jack to replace the one the bender comes with. anyone need a bottle jack on the cheap?!?!?! ;-P
In reply to Go_Gators:
Great to hear! Keep the pics coming as it moves along
~$1000 of DOM looks like this:
last pictures of LS1-KART's B-pillars, ever. 
minimum equipment required (aka LS1-KART standard tool kit):
B-pillars partially cropped off
B-Pillars B gone.
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