this thing comes apart SO EASY. no rust to deal with. no body/fenders/fender liners to deal with.
broke it all apart and installed the lowering kit in under 2hrs.
this thing comes apart SO EASY. no rust to deal with. no body/fenders/fender liners to deal with.
broke it all apart and installed the lowering kit in under 2hrs.
Afterwatching the video, i have questions:
Did you use a brush in the corners at first? How well did it get down in cracks and crevices?
Any preliminary results on sound deadening and insulation during properties?
Dusterbd13 said:Afterwatching the video, i have questions:
Did you use a brush in the corners at first? How well did it get down in cracks and crevices?
Any preliminary results on sound deadening and insulation during properties?
nope, a 4" wide by about 2" thick roller was able to get everywhere i wanted to coat. i havent run the car since i painted, so i will have to get back to ya on that!
Awesome work! Im near Tampa, its nice to see another enthusiast in the area. Are you worried about being able to drive it on the street? I know per registration and insurance it is corvette but do you think the police will give you any trouble?
In reply to Flsupraguy :
not real worried. i have done everything i know to be required, all lights, windshield, wipers, horn. i have had a few drive behind and by me already wiht not so much as a glance. will keep ya posted on how that goes! i hope to come down near you and run brooksville this spring. there is a C4 Kart down there!
i made a jig to replicate the opening for the front suspension cam bolts. this saved alot of time fitting the tab that will help keep the cam bolt locked into the outermost position. i saved the jig, should anyone need it... not that there is a similiar build going on a zipcode over or anything...
here are the cams with the outsides ground down and tabs welded to the insides.
here they are cleaned up:
and installed:
crude flapper-wheeling was required so that the nut would set flush on the cam washer.
front and rear are reassembled. need to do fluids before back on the ground.
Awesome work, I'm really enjoying this!
I'm also very curious about how your interior coating works out. EDIT - And by that I mean how it holds up. It looks fantastic now.
In reply to AxeHealey :
thanks, yea, i am optimistic. though, its winter this week in florida, so some radiant heat from the trans-tunnel improves the thought of driving it... i have ordered some non-skid tape, 4" wide. that will go down in the foot well area to improve durability and slippage if (when) ever wet.
In reply to Go_Gators :
Good idea with the grip tape on the floor. I simply primed and painted the floor of the E21 and took off all of it by the gas pedal on the first race weekend when it was wet and my foot was sliding around.
diff and trans fluid change today. redline products, no pumping required!!! LS1-KART FTW
engine oil change and brake fluid exchange completed today. LS1-KART might be back on the ground running this week!
Go_Gators said:In reply to Flsupraguy :
not real worried. i have done everything i know to be required, all lights, windshield, wipers, horn. i have had a few drive behind and by me already wiht not so much as a glance. will keep ya posted on how that goes! i hope to come down near you and run brooksville this spring. there is a C4 Kart down there!
Please post up when you plan to hit Brooksville. I run there sometimes and would like to come take a look at your creation!
In reply to Lof8 :
haha, will do!
gauges are back in. problem with this location... wiper stalk is directly in line of sight to water temp... ugh.
now operable again. i put her back on the ground and drove a bit to unbind the suspension.
when i put the lowering bolts in the f & r leaf springs i went with the absolute lowest setting. it dropped 1.5" up front and 2" in the rear. now the lower control arms are essentially level, which i believe is where you want them.
i also adjusted the single rear axle lower trailing arm cam to max camber. visually it aint much. havent measured yet.
up front i bolted the upper control arms back to the frame with no shims. again havent measured, but at a glance i would put it in the 3 deg range.
So much win!
So how did it drive?
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
i still need to align it. appears to have ~ 2deg of front toe in now... i havent messed with toe f or r since its been on the ground. hopefully i can get started on that this weekend.
LS1-KART...... at night!!
got the seats back in. 6-point harnesses in fully for the first time. non-skid applied. and wiring fairly well contained. oh, and some tasteful lighting!
yesterday i was finally able to meet up with a friend in the local corvette club to buy some 17x11 C4 ZR1 reproductions that he has no foreseeable need for. i should get the 315s mounted on them tomorrow.
i hope to play with the alignment this week. i already got the toe f & r better with a string line, i want to drive it some more to let the suspension settle and get the new wheels/tires on it before i go any furhter. the current setup has larger dia rear tires and i will need to compensate for the square setup i am switching by adding some rear ride height so it has some rake to it.
The local cars and coffee is this coming saturday morning. i hope to bring it out, the CnCs are usually huge (several hundred cars).
If I remember correctly your ECU is located in the passenger footwell/tunnel hump area. I am doing something similar on my project car. I'm wondering what your thoughts are for if/when you have to pull the motor - can the ECU come out thru the firewall as the motor comes out of the car? (Probably not) Or, can you pass just the ECU harness connectors thru the firewall? Or, will you need to disconnect the engine harness from the motor and leave it in the vehicle?
On my project I am going for the scenario where the harness stays on the motor but the ECU stays put. I would need to disconnect the ECU from the harness and pass the ECU connectors thru an opening in the firewall.
In reply to Sparkydog :
you are correct! if you look closely at the picture above the two long connectors for the ECU can be seen near the floorboard. its mounted horizontally using the factory bracket. i took the underhood fuse block, throttle controller and ECU and moved them into the passenger footwell area.
i cut an ~2" hole in the fiberglass firewall to pass the connectors through, nothing was ever disconnected from the motor. just disconnect at the fuse block, ecu and tac.
not sure i follow what your plan is, did you mean move the ECU? i would recommend my setup. the placement on C5 (just aft of the front passenger wheel) is unsightly when the body is removed.
if you want i can take some better pics of my install to give you some ideas.
Thanks - yeah I didn't word my thing very well. I meant in my scenario where I am pulling the motor out - I want to be able to leave the engine harness on the motor, disconnect the ECU from the harness, leave the ECU in the car, pass the ECU connectors through a hole in my firewall and pull the motor out. Which is what I think would/will happen for your kart should you need to pull the motor.
In reply to Sparkydog :
yep, unplug, pass through firewall and gone!
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