That rear tire wear makes me feel all tingly and happy.
That rear tire wear makes me feel all tingly and happy.
This thing is so cool
wearymicrobe said:That rear tire wear makes me feel all tingly and happy.
me too.
Mezzanine said:I kinda love making purists squirm. Nice job at the car show!
in all likelihood its the same population that still gets a newwpaper in print... if so... they are going to love this:
new rear meats. as you can kind of make out, even in the background they appear larger. these are toyos R888, 315-series. Going to give them a try.
Looks like the tire pressure was too high? That kind of centerline wear is curious.
That or high wheel speed vs ground speed ratio. The truck I learned to drive stick on (off road) used to wear rear tires like that. 5th gear at 20 mph ground speed was common.
Dead_Sled said:That or high wheel speed vs ground speed ratio. The truck I learned to drive stick on (off road) used to wear rear tires like that. 5th gear at 20 mph ground speed was common.
Probably the leading contributor! it definitely isnt over-inflation considering during autocross i typically run low 20s and on the street they are still around 30 psi. the 1/4" of toe in may not help either... oh well...
i look forward to seeing what abuse the toyos can handle.
BUMP
LOL.
no change.
its july/august in florida and RAINS EVERYDAY... so i have put about 10 miles on it in a month.
however.... my clubs annual night autocross event is 8/11, so i have bought additional LED lighting that i unpackaged and thats as far as i have gotten. debating on putting them above the windshield, cowl area or near the existing headlights. we run this event by moonlight and car lighting only, so every year its a showcase of rashly affixed light bars.
Annual autocross night event was saturday. Weather was perfect, AUgust in FLA warm, breezy, no rain. Pics and video will follow later this week.
I ran with my new toyo R888rs in the rear and the Sumitomos i had left on the front. This made for quite a pendulum swing. I knew the Sumitomos were bad, but i wasnt expecting it to be this drastic.
The car went from being a nearly uncontrollable drift machine to understeer prone. The rear felt glued to the asphalt. Obviously i dont want to drop too much $ into consumables this year as i sort-out the car, but i think there is such a disparity now in tires i am forced to buy a pair of toyos for the front. Continuing to autocross on this arrangement wont tell me anything about the cars setup. At least, that is my excuse for the expenditure.
moar.... oppss...
lovin that positive rear camber.... my opinion, about the only thing chevy got wrong with the C5/6 chassis.
Aren't there elliptical UCA(or LCA's) bushings or some such 'kit' to rectify this?
759NRNG said:Aren't there elliptical UCA(or LCA's) bushings or some such 'kit' to rectify this?
yea, as far i have found there is exactly one company making an offset bushing set. as such, they aint cheap, but i think they will be necessary. around $1500 for a car set, uppers and lowers.
here is video from the day/night split event. 4 runs shown on split screen with day above night view.
i have ordered another pair of toyo R888rs for the front axle....
big day tomorrow. 2018 local event #9. first event on four fresh toyo R888r 315s.
It's already been talked about, but it does look like the angle of attack of your wing is rather steep and probably stalled. In your case, the high drag from stalling the wing might provide more advantages than disadvantages. Since the wing is so high up, the moment arm is long and drag at the wing would shift your weight backwards onto the rear wheels, increasing rear grip at the cost of increased drag. If other cars in your segment have similar wing sizes and AoA, they're probably all mounted high up, right?
so yea, there were no models or calculation done in the design of the wing for this thing. but, looking at true A-mod or mod autocross cars in general and pikes peak type aero packages, the rear wings have agressive angles and mounted near or above the top of the cabin. so thats what i tried to mimic on the quick and cheap! my logic... is that the drag increase is worth it if i can substantially improve rear grip.
once i reduce some of the karts other variables i plan to try various angles/adjustments to see if i can discern any differences WRT autocross.. i can tell a difference in rear grip both on the street and autocross with the wing on, can also feel the drag. i drove it a bit at interstate speeds with the wing down, when you let of the gas teh air brake effect was substantial!
Event 9 is in the books. the toyo R888r-es transformed the car. So much more grip and confidence putting it into corners. Placed 8th overall, raw time. my first top ten, ever. Video to follow.....
BUT....
For the first time i had cooling issues. previously no matter how much i beat on it, it would stay right at 200deg.
At event 9 and the hour-ish ride home i encountered symptoms that make me think its the pump or thermostat... open to opinions.. The setup is a large aluminum radiator, stock C5 elec fans and stock mechanical pump/stat.
1-When i returned from runs temp would rise (getting into the 230-240deg range) with the car idling in grid, when i increased the engine speed to ~2000rpm it would pretty quickly cool back down to the 210-220deg range.
2-on the way home, running about 50mph in 5th gear, when i slowed down in traffic temps would again go over 220deg but come back down when i got going again.
3-here is real unusual symptom.... i was on freeway for a brief stint, going about 80mph, in 5th gear is about 2300rpm, so i dropped it into 6th gear, going about 1800rpm, the temps began to climb again. when it went over 220deg, i put it back into 5th and it again cooled down almost immediately back to around 210deg.
Symtom 2 could obviously be a lack of airflow (though both fans were running). But 1 & 3 certainly make me think its a lack of coolant flow.... so leaning towards pulling the original-looking water pump.... and stat while i am there...
upon further investigation... radiator was only about 1/2 full of coolant, expansion tank was bone dry. worse, there was a brown clay/sludge material around the cap and visible inside the radiator... since there is no steel in the cooling system and oil floats on water... i presume the head gasket has a slight leak.
i am going to pull the plugs next. if any look bad i will probably do a compression/leak down test. but as it is, i suspect just the oil and water are mixing... nothing necessarily into the cylinder.
the next decision is whether to replace the head gaskets before the october events. leaning towards putting it back together, monitoring the coolant level better and continue to beat on it... .
I vote coolant level maintenance versus top end redo at this juncture....I see a 'winter' project looming.
In reply to 759NRNG :
agree. except (florida) 'winter' is my preferred driving season!
Truthfully, another motivation to slap it back together and call it 'fixed' is the intake is currently off on my ZHP to replace a coolant pipe (and associated growth work) that fractured where it goes into the cylinder head... so my inventory of running vehicles is down to 50%.
Event 9 autocross run video link
didnt know it at the time, but in addition to the cooling issues, i was having audio/video issues too. trackaddict apparently didnt record all my runs and my remote mic audio didnt get recorded for some reason...
got the plugs out yesterday. they looked great. naturally i broke a plug wire in the process... ~$80 penalty for a new set...
it will go back together today. new 180deg thermostat and water pump. will see what happens!
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