Headlight motors are in, wiring done for them, and finished buttoning up the transmission last night. I need to adjust the linkage on the gated shifter, which is a very uhhhhh.... interesting adventure. I rebuilt the shifter as well and refreshed it so it's nice and smooth.
Tested the transmission for leaks and it's good to go. So now that it's done, it's going to be a matter of finishing the hydraulics. Got the slave rebuilt, need to check the master. Haven't done that yet.
gah...I always walk into this thread hoping to see an embeded video. But, I appreciate the step-by-step approach. Means less troubleshooting later when you need to address something. We are all just waiting for that magical smokey-italian-burnout video
4cylndrfury wrote: gah...I always walk into this thread hoping to see an embeded video. But, I appreciate the step-by-step approach. Means less troubleshooting later when you need to address something. We are all just waiting for that magical smokey-italian-burnout video
Well, I did start it up again yesterday but I don't feel like another video of me dicking with megasquirt and revving the engine is all that productive.
It'll be on the road soon, so once we get there, plenty of videos to come.
Here's an interesting one.... so... if i let my O2 sensor warm up, it goes green. As it should.
The second I turn the car on, it starts blinking again, and won't go solid, and ends up failing out on the MS as 10afr (which is default for "i'm not on yet"). Not sure if I fouled it or something.
In reply to corsepervita:
Could be a problem in the heater circuit?
Stefan wrote: In reply to corsepervita: Could be a problem in the heater circuit?
I mean, maybe. Thing is though it goes straight up solid when i turn the car to on. Second the car is running, it blinks as if I'm restarting the controller, but never locks on.
corsepervita wrote:Stefan wrote: In reply to corsepervita: Could be a problem in the heater circuit?I mean, maybe. Thing is though it goes straight up solid when i turn the car to on. Second the car is running, it blinks as if I'm restarting the controller, but never locks on.
Check how it's getting powered. It makes sense that it would shut down during crank, as it would reduce the voltage going to the sensor. But after that, it should eventually come alive, assuming the input is still within range. Any way that you have a second battery to power the WB while you are doing these experiments?
alfadriver wrote:corsepervita wrote:Check how it's getting powered. It makes sense that it would shut down during crank, as it would reduce the voltage going to the sensor. But after that, it should eventually come alive, assuming the input is still within range. Any way that you have a second battery to power the WB while you are doing these experiments?Stefan wrote: In reply to corsepervita: Could be a problem in the heater circuit?I mean, maybe. Thing is though it goes straight up solid when i turn the car to on. Second the car is running, it blinks as if I'm restarting the controller, but never locks on.
I'm using the primary battery to the car. You know, i wonder if it's getting too low. I have been cranking and running a lot, and the alt isn't hooked up. That could be a novice mistake on my part. I'll pop it on the battery tender tonight.
Alright, tested the turn signal and stalk to see what wires do what. I came up with a wiring diagram i'll throw in a strip box. should be a piece of cake. Realistically, this should be easy to reproduce for almost any car as well. PM me if you want a diagram made. The board on the right represents the turn signal stalk and the colors are specific to a jalpa/alfa. But can change them, add/remove wires if need be.
Oddly enough the horn for the Jalpa (and other lambos, far as I can tell from the ferruccio era) use a little push button on the stalk instead of pressing the horn on the wheel. All it does is ground.
There is a leftover wire which i cannot tell what it does. I tested it in every possible manner i could possibly think of and it made no connections what so ever. Bizarre. I will tape it off and left it out of this diagram.
The horn button should just ground a relay.
Trans_Maro wrote: The horn button should just ground a relay.
Yeah, i guess i could do that. Easier to just fuse a 12v to the horn and ground the horn, but a relay is safer.
Horns have a fairly significant current draw, I wouldn't feed all that through a small switch on the stalk.
Trans_Maro wrote: Horns have a fairly significant current draw, I wouldn't feed all that through a small switch on the stalk.
Ah, wasn't aware they pulled all that much. Then relays I shall go.
corsepervita wrote: There is a leftover wire which i cannot tell what it does. I tested it in every possible manner i could possibly think of and it made no connections what so ever. Bizarre. I will tape it off and left it out of this diagram.
Don't be surprised if you get a letter from some lady in Germany telling you to hook it back up so her hair dryer works.
Jerry From LA wrote:corsepervita wrote: There is a leftover wire which i cannot tell what it does. I tested it in every possible manner i could possibly think of and it made no connections what so ever. Bizarre. I will tape it off and left it out of this diagram.Don't be surprised if you get a letter from some lady in Germany telling you to hook it back up so her hair dryer works.
I suppose it wouldn't be completely out of the realm of possibilities!
"There is a leftover wire ..."
High beam flash function?
Alfas have this as "push on the end" function which you say is the horn.
coexist wrote: "There is a leftover wire ..." High beam flash function?
Nope. tested that and it comes back to the striped purple wire. So far as I can tell, the black striped purple wire doesn't appear to have any useful function. I have lowbeam/highbeam/flash/horn/left/right and they all work.
Parking lights?
I think those have a different button on the dash. Near as I can tell, like I said, no matter what position the stalk is in, the circuit doesn't close for it no matter what wires I check with it. Straight up bizarre. Tried pushing down the horn, moving them to bright, leaving them on low, tried turn signal left or right, flash, all positions, no dice.
I can't wait until you get it on the dyno. We need to redo our guesses at that time?
Stampie wrote: I can't wait until you get it on the dyno. We need to redo our guesses at that time?
Hmmm, well, since it would be at the flywheel guesses back then, it may be different now. Not sure how much I lose going through this archaic transmission.
I'll let ya guys know when i get closer and we'll see.
Porsches have a parking light feature where you put the left turn signal light on with the engine off and it lights up the driver's side of the car. Maybe it's a European law, kind of like the fog tail light. Could it be for something like that?
Or maybe for a fog tail light now that I think of it?
Hey Derek, I'm shopping for some DCNF throttle bodies and it looks like you're running the Borla (née TWM) version.
Borla and Jenvey are the only game around, and while the Borlas are more expensive, by the time you get the Jenveys over here from the UK, it isn't a big difference.
Do you have any critical feedback on the Borla throttles given the experience you've had with them to date? I'm still shopping and thought I'd check with you to see how they've been so far (understanding you still haven't driven the car).
I want to know why my friend's jalpa dyno'd so low. He does have carbs. Factory power was supposed to be 255hp. He dyno'd in at 176 and 190. Then again, who knows how well in tune it was, what the compression was, how crappy the carbs were, etc. So many factors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yNyq2IiNCs
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