Since you have the block stripped bare anyway, maybe see how much your local machine shop charges to clean it before you start putting it back together? I can't imagine it'd be too much.
Since you have the block stripped bare anyway, maybe see how much your local machine shop charges to clean it before you start putting it back together? I can't imagine it'd be too much.
Ian F wrote: Since you have the block stripped bare anyway, maybe see how much your local machine shop charges to clean it before you start putting it back together? I can't imagine it'd be too much.
Good idea, see about having them do the cam bearings too.
I bought the tool to do cam bearings for about what the machine shop wanted to do the labor.
To clean the block, once you get the cam bearing and galley plugs out, there isn't one single place that you can't clean thoroughly with a Harbor Freight cleaning brush set and some labor. I like to start with my pressure washer into every water jacket and oil galley. Then degrease and use the HF brush set, then pressure wash again and final clean. It's a half day's work to do it thoroughly. Most people might think that was a poor return on investment, but when you're trying to keep costs down, your own labor is pretty cheap.
about the lifter bores... this clearance is critical, oil to the rockers and springs/valve stem are fed here, Pete, all the little repairs Will Add Up,Look at picking up a block from a machine shop already to go. or, I hate it happens, but someone else's stalled project may do, Bored and Stroked ready to assemble, I see it all the time.
In reply to Cousin_Eddie:
Your cleaning method is also what Aeromoto suggested to me. I'll pick up a set of those brushes, do as much as I can in the garage, then take the block over to his shop & use his power washer to clean all the oil galleys and passageways.
In reply to GTXVette:
I've been looking for something like that since I got the car home, but haven't lucked out yet. I think I've pretty much reached the turning point to rebuilding this one, unless there's anyplace else in the block where surprises may be waiting?
MLK holiday is coming up. The local yard here has 50% engines on Mondays. Road trip and we spend the day at the yard?
OR saturday the 14th Brad is having his Swap Meet at Commerce, Atlanta speedshop Dragstrip,and they are Monthly.
Day-30(1-hour): Too damn cold to work in the garage too long. 
I appreciate the offers gentlemen, but without a running vehicle of my own I doubt I'd be able to make it to either event.
I made a trip to Harbor Freight & Advance Auto this afternoon, stocked up on about every cleaning brush HF offers, including their engine kit, and picked up a drip pan to put under the engine at Advance. I got the rest of the accessories unbolted from the engine, and knocked out the freeze plugs, except the two in the back of the block.
I have a question - I read somewhere that in order to remove the oil galley plugs on the back of the block I should not use a 1/4" ratchet or extension, because they'll snap off inside the plug. Is that correct? I didn't have any luck finding the correct tool to remove them at either store tonight.
You definitely want to remove those plugs. That makes the two main oil galleys completely open from front to back. Without removing them, there is a place for smook to hide out at the ends of the galleys.
I take lots of pictures when I'm working in the shop...
As far as removal. I made my own tool. I used a 3/8 to 1/4" impact adapter and ground it to fit better and then use my impact to drive them out.
A decent Sealed Power plug kit comes with all of your new freeze plugs and block plugs. The new galley plugs are normal hex drive so installing them is easier than removing the old ones.
In reply to Cousin_Eddie:
Awesome, thanks for the tip!
Day-31(2-hours):
I found a hone that fit the lifter bores(at Autozone of all places), and a quick hone of both the intake & exhaust bores for cylinder-1 cleaned up the ridge I'd felt.
I spent the rest of my time cleaning grime off the block. Here's a before & after, but I'm not sure it really shows the difference.
I sprayed this side with oven cleaner when I quit. I'll see how well it works overnight.
I also picked up a bit of light reading today.
GTXVette wrote: In reply to petegossett: At least down South it only lasts a couple day's at a time, Sitting here waiting for the Snow to start now, mostly just cold rain. They make rings that are .005 thou.oversize....Gap them yourself they can account for some bore slack,but tight is right with bore size.
I'm getting ready to order parts & was thinking about your suggestion. Do I need to get a micrometer and check the bores before I order +.005 rings? I've been under the presumption with on 63k on it and so little visible wear that I'd just order stock-size.
In reply to Cousin_Eddie: You're a great wealth of knowledge. Thanks for sharing it here with all of us - it's what makes this forum great.
If you order oversize rings and don't end up needing the "oversize" because the bores are not much worn, would the act of filing the gaps to spec not resolve that issue?
Whereas if the bores are too big, then the gap in the stock rings will be too big with no way to resolve?
The oversize rings in a std bore will no longer be a perfect circle when you file all the way down to get the proper gap therefore won't seal. The bores being slightly too big will be less of an issue, but you'd get blow by, lots of power adder junkyard engines run on the loose side, but the other problem once you get wear to the point of a big ridge at the top is: the wear might not be even, the bore has ovalled out. Get a T-bore gauge even a cheapo set from ebay seems a shame to do all this work then get it back together and you have a couple of dead cylinders. With the gauges you will know when it is honed enough or what else you need to do.
better than nothing
order time.......... stop a second ...I was trying to help,You said the ridge came right out Right? There is still some wear and if only .002-.003 thou. the Ovaling shouldn't be a Prob. If you still have a top ring laying around or a second re insert it in the Bore's, ALL of 'em, one at a time About an inch and a half below the ridge line mark Square it in the hole and Measure the Gap with feeler guage.what is the gap spec. in your books,If needed buy one stock and one +.005 ring set and check that.I have had to do a lot of stupid stuff trying to save money,the machine shop is the most expensive bill I get. Before buying Machine shop tools decide if that isn't the place you need to start(machine shop) you can get the heads done at the same time. As Long as you want to do this your self I will try to offer help, But what do I Know.
In reply to GTXVette:
Awesome - that sounds like a method for checking ring gap I can do with reasonable confidence!
Day-32(2-hours):
I finished cleaning all the crud off the block, and out of all the cavities I can reach with the brushes. Then I scraped & cleaned all the gasket surfaces, and wiped them down with WD40.
I still need to clean the crank, pistons & rods, and heads. Hopefully I can get the block power washed this weekend.
And you can use one of the pistons to square up the ring in the cyl.
Damn Pete, I'm amazed at the progress.
Still doesn't explain why it took two of us 8 hours to replace a water pump on a V8.
In that shot of the block No.1 and 3 look to have some scoring or deeper rust issues,I hate to say this but if you run your nail across it and it not only hangs a bit but feels 'grainy' then it may need to be bored so lets hope not. take out the feeler gauge pull out a .005 and a .010 feel it, is it that deep,here's the deal you have two sides if it were .010 on one side it's .020 total so a little ends up a lot.
In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid: That's Funny right there.
In reply to GTXVette:
I know those spots look bad, but I can't feel them at all. I guess they're just rust stains? They don't catch my fingernail at all either.
SUPER Flipin' Duper.
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