When I get back out in the garage in a few days I'll try supergluing it to a nitrile glove. If that doesn't work I'll either pick up a small magnet or order one of those magnetic fingers.
When I get back out in the garage in a few days I'll try supergluing it to a nitrile glove. If that doesn't work I'll either pick up a small magnet or order one of those magnetic fingers.
A good Magnet is as close as a bad speaker. Morning Pete.
GTXVette wrote: A good Magnet is as close as a bad speaker. Morning Pete.
Or an old harddrive.
I have tapped a bolt to the socket, there is always a way. Sometimes it does matter what goes in first, often that is discovered to late.
Yes, if the trans is already bolted to the ladder it'll have to be disconnected to lower the back of it slightly. Unbolting the ladder isn't super inconvenient.
My $84 eBay headers arrived yesterday, and I had a few minutes this morning so I checked out how they fit. They don't. Despite the fact the listing specifically includes the 1985 Corvette, they hit this plastic box(not sure if it's the ac compressor or heater core?).
It doesn't appear they fit at all, but even if I could wedge them in without cracking/contacting the plastic they'd still be so close I think it would melt them.
Not sure yet if I'm going to keep them, and see if I can find someone who can weld stainless & have them modified, or just send them back.
Hello. New guy here. Following your build with interest. Check to see if the headers are interfering with the starter. The headers look like they are sitting a little high. That box looks like the heater box. From what I have read on GRM, fitment is a matter of perspective.... As an aside, door panel covering can be tightened up by removing the top cover that you repaired and stapling it tight, cover back on it won't be seen. You're doing a great job, and you and Dusterbd's builds are the reason I joined up. Keep on keepn on.
By the looks of it and the $84 price point I'm guessing you got generic hot rod block hugger headers that will indeed fit the engine that came in a 1985 Corvette, just not with said engine mounted in said Corvette, and definitely not with the AC evaporator box in place.
In reply to Dirtydog:
Thanks and welcome to GRM! 
In reply to BrokenYugo:
That's my hunch too, but how much clearance is enough between a bare header and the plastic evaporator? I'm thinking I'd probably want some room for insulation between them, correct? Or at least header wrap?
you know the song.......Moneymoney money so the Cheap out is to dimple the area with a ball head Hammer, a little won't hurt anything but your heart,I'll go out side and look at mine because its in the trash pile (Core cover) and some header wrap is always good, may figure a way to cut off some of mine and you do the same then epoxey them so you get clearence, with time change it's not light out yet, Happy Spring
Happy Spring! Welcome news here in the Northeast. Agreed on above, generic headers and a little massaging in the area. I have a bone stock 85 that I can take measurements or pics(although my daughter will have to figure out how to post) if needed.
Good idea guys, that does seem like a much simpler solution than cutting/rewelding.
If it were my project, I think I'd be putting the stock manifolds back on if the exhaust system under it was still in usable shape. And then maybe start saving up for some headers that fit and the exhaust work to go along with them.
If continuing to use those headers...I'd mangle the junk headers before mangling the heater and A/C box on the car.
ClemSparks wrote: If it were my project, I think I'd be putting the stock manifolds back on if the exhaust system under it was still in usable shape. And then maybe start saving up for some headers that fit and the exhaust work to go along with them. If continuing to use those headers...I'd mangle the junk headers before mangling the heater and A/C box on the car.
Agreed. The stock manifolds will only lose 15 horse over a good set of long tubes. Less over block huggers.
I did buy stainless flux core welding wire, and welded up some stainless exhaust. The welding was not perfect but somewhat usable.
Not sure how much you would have to modify those headers to make them fit. Wonder if they would fit a non A/C car?
Dusterbd13 wrote:ClemSparks wrote: If it were my project, I think I'd be putting the stock manifolds back on if the exhaust system under it was still in usable shape. And then maybe start saving up for some headers that fit and the exhaust work to go along with them. If continuing to use those headers...I'd mangle the junk headers before mangling the heater and A/C box on the car.Agreed. The stock manifolds will only lose 15 horse over a good set of long tubes. Less over block huggers.
If I use the stock manifolds I'll have to block off the EGR crap & deal with the broken studs. Not insurmountable, and probably not any more work than beating this header into submission, but people will buy the manifolds since they're not cracked so I'm going that route for now.
In reply to TED_fiestaHP:
It looks like they would clear fine if I remove the evaporator, but I plan on keeping a/c. At some point whenever I do the LS swap I'll probably need to upgrade compressors, but I believe the rest of the a/c system can remain stock.
Is the evaporator not mostly an empty cavity in that area?
Might it be a more elegant solution to trim back the evaporator rather than bash the header?
Would center dump manifolds off a C3 fit in there? They flow quite well and are unbeatable in terms of fitting into tight spaces.
I measured on my 85, 3 1/2 inches stock manifold bolt to box. Are these shorty or long tube? You may be able to neatly cut the offending box edge, reverse it, and glue, JB weld, Fiberglass, what ever your choice back for "Factory" look.
Another thought. Are you fabbing the exhaust system? If so Mix and match, exhaust manifolds may be an alternative, depending on fit.
In reply to Dirtydog:
Did you measure from the rear bolt? They're these block-huggers.
I considered modifying the box, but without knowing what's inside or how much room there is I'm not sure I want to start cutting through it. That also would have been a much easier job before the engine was back in place...
When I get back out in the garage next week I'm going to fit up the header as far as it will go, then take a better look from both the top & bottom. I'm still thinking that hammering it down will be the quickest/easiest option, but that may change depending on what I discover.
No, the second bolt from firewall. If not too much trouble to remove the header, you may have room to cut the box. My nickname is Jimmy two times, I feel your pain. Didn't GTXVette have an old box? Maybe he can check it for interior room purposes. (Hate to volunteer you) BFH works too. I have pictures if I can figure out how to send them.
In reply to Dirtydog:
Yes, he offered it to me - and I may still take him up on it, but since I know this setup is relatively short-term I'll see if I can massage the header to fit first.
If you want, you can email the pics directly to me. It's my username at that yahoo place.
It looks like you could cut the one pipe, a little distance from the flange, then another cut to take some pipe out, then pull the pipe back together and it might fit. With the flux core welder and the stainless flux wire I could weld pipe but had more trouble with the thicker flange material.
10-4.
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