Poor life choices - C4 content

I had one like that on the manifold for my '89 Chevy shortbed project.

I'll tell you how I got it out: LOTS of time with a chainsaw file (a small, round file used for sharpening chainsaw blades). I mean...a couple hours. But I got it without damaging the threads.

Just one other option to throw into the mix.

Exhaust work is exhausting.

Fwiw, GM considers the flange studs single-use. Any time I removed the exhaust from the manifolds I made sure to have replacements on hand. Fortunately, they're cheap, even from a dealer. If you use anti-seize when you button it back up it will be much easier the next time it has to come off. Instead of breaking one or two on each side you may not need to replace even one.

In reply to conesare2seconds:

Good to know. They're all bad enough I can't reuse them anyway, but fortunately I have some bolts that are the correct size. I'll just use them since it's only short term.

As a last resort, I would buy a reverse drill in whatever size you plan to use to drill out the hole before taping and see what happens. Heat it to red hot and proceed to drill it out.

While I have never had an easy-out work for me, (they always break) I do still use a trick that I learned as a kid. Drill out the middle of the bolt that is stuck, and using an old file, pound the tang into the middle of the red-hot bolt. Let it cool a bit and using a crescent wrench for leverage, try and shift the bolt.

Cobalt drill bits, you can always heli-coil the hole. Another option is to go up a size, look at both SAE and Metric, might be able to go just slightly larger. Use lots of anti-seize, in the stud hole and the nut. Exhaust parts will come apart again later if you use anti-seize. I often order from McMaster Carr, they have drill bits, different thread repair options and every bolt option you can think of.

In reply to NOHOME:

I was able to drill downward from the top, effectively mimicking a left-handed bit, but it still didn't budge. Even with my map torch on it for several minutes(and aimed through the fresh hole for part of that) it didn't move.

In reply to TED_fiestaHP:

I'm all stocked up on anti seize, so hopefully I won't have any problems removing the bolts afterwards. They won't be installed that long anyway.

If using bolts, consider tacking the bolt head on top. Wrench access in there will be tough.

Partly due to my Navy experience, I use anti-seize on aluminum, stainless and anything that will get hot. It can be a little messy but sure makes taking things apart later easier. Makes aluminum threads last for more assembly cycles.

Don't know why they call it a "easy out" never anything easy about it. Careful use of drill bits and you might remove all but the threads, the threads sometimes can then be removed.

If heat doesn't work, try heat then a ice cube. Often there is no easy solution, just time and lots of drill bits. I had a stud break on the BMW X3, figured I would just grind the rest off and drill thru and use a bolt and nut. Don't know what material they used, but used up a bunch of expensive drill bits. Only sharp cobalt bits would do anything...

A solution that has worked many times for me is to heat the whole area really nice and hot, and then use a squirt bottle to direct a stream at only the bolt. If you get everything hot enough, rapidly cooling the bolt down with water can really dislodge so jammed in crud when the bolt shrinks.

If it is cherry red and still wont turn, that is one bad-ass stuck bolt!

Drill and tap time.

Still recovering from my exhaust adventures, and while not exactly the same, I feel your pain.

Day-86(1-hour):

Well, I got it drilled out and tapped, but not without challenges... I have plenty of bolts that are the correct size, but no tap for that diameter & pitch. So I had to dig through all my reclaimed hardware until I found one that both matched one of my taps, and I also had a bit for.

Excellent!

I know the feeling of wanting to get a job done, not quite having the optimal tool to do the job and then spending the next half hour rounding up an obscure combination of tools that will sort of do the job...and be happy it's done!

If I were smarter, I'd keep a list

Day-87(2.5-hours):

I got the studs out of the other manifold, but not without snapping one off. Fortunately there was still enough left to grab hold of so I could work it out. I got both manifolds bolted up to the heads.

I attempted to bolt the flanges to the y-pipe, but my bolts aren't the correct length.

So I decided to clean up the flex plate cover instead. It should be easy to tell when the rear main seal starts leaking now.

Don't you just love working with original, 30-year-old exhaust hardware? I've found salty language and beer doesn't help with the hardware - but it helps me a good bit.

In reply to dkm455:

I just moved to the coast from IL last year - working on anything more than 5-years old that isn't rusted solid is a blessing! But yeah, this exhaust probably won't come out without a fight.

Are you going to delete the air tubes? They're pretty easy to braze shut.

In reply to Crackers:

The stock manifolds are just on temporarily, so I was going to pick up caps for the tubes - or if I can't find any cheap/easily I'll just stick back on a short length of hose with a bolt in the end. I don't want to modify the manifolds since people do buy them, although they're not really worth much.

I forgot you're working on a vehicle with some base value. LOL

Day-88(1/2-hour):

Not much time tonight, but I crawled under the engine with the oil cooler crossover pipe & worked out the routing for it and the alternator harness. They somewhat occupy the same space along the driver's side of the oil pan, so I needed to figure out which one went over/under/around. I still need to get them fastened into place though, but progress is progress I suppose.

So do you sit in it every evening and make voom voom noises?

Stampie wrote: So do you sit in it every evening and make voom voom noises?

I do that when just looking at pics of cars!

Stampie wrote: So do you sit in it every evening and make voom voom noises?

Not every night...

Day-89(2-hours):

I set the intake in place to check the top coolant hose routing. I'm glad I did - the neck I got won't work.

I crawled underneath and finished routing both the alternator harness & oil cooler crossover pipe, so then I started on the accessories.

I'll need a shorter belt with the bypass pulley, but that might not stay for the Challenge. I also need to grind down the head of the bolt a bit.

I hope to have the top end buttoned up, fuel lines connected, and the throttle & TV cable routing figured out by the end of the weekend. I'll still need to rebuild the front calipers, install the master cylinder & bleed the brakes, then I can mount the wheels & roll it outside to test-fire it...I'm hoping for next weekend, but we'll see how it goes.

I'm starting to get the happy feet feeling.