In reply to t25torx:
Thanks!
Goals: Since I telecommute, it'll(hopefully) be my infrequent primary transportation, a backup vehicle for SWMBO when hers needs work(soon), and autocrosser - the Challenge is likely out due to budget, unless I decide to redo a bunch of current work/parts with cheaper alternatives.
So far I'm not having much luck getting the drivetrain sorted though.
In reply to ClemSparks:
The thing is it ran just fine for 20-minutes 2-days ago. I have no idea why it wouldn't stay running tonight, or restart after the 3rd attempt, and I just don't feel like dealing with it. If there were a mechanic/shop nearby who was knowledgeable in old-school Chevy I'd really consider having them take it.
Man I want to come visit for the weekend. Are you free in June or is that too late to help?
whispers put the TPI back on it...
Time to take a breath. Nice job on the filler neck... That hose isn't to close to the belt? Quick check, tap the float bowls with a screw driver, the floats may be hanging up. It should have float bowl sight glass or plugs. Open them up and if gas comes out, your floats are set to high. Adjust them down to no gas comes out. Hook up a vacuum gauge, turn the air/idle screws in all the way. Then back them out 1 and 1/2 turns. Start car, and turn in or out to get highest vacuum. Adjust the idle screw (the screw on the throttle)to set correct idle. This should at least get it going. This should help, I hope. Go to the Holley website, they may have info on setting it up. You tube may have info.
Sorry about the long post. I have more experience with Harley carbs, but the principal is the same.
Dirtydog wrote:
Sorry about the long post. I have more experience with Harley carbs, but the principal is the same.
Long post or not, you're right on the money for getting a Holley baselined and the car running.
In reply to Dirtydog:
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I'll check the plugs on the bowls. The fuel was adjusted to the bottom of the plugs, but I suppose the floats could be stuck(or something else). I'd adjusted both mixture screws while it was running, though they didn't cause much of a vacuum change. It seemed to be running well last time though, as I was able to bring the idle down to around 600-800rpm without any problems.
In reply to Stampie:
I expected to have it on the road 2-months ago, so at this rate I doubt June will be too late. Thanks!
In reply to t25torx:
Trust me, I weighed keeping it heavily, but there's just too many unknowns: the ecu, injectors, wiring, and every single sensor, are all suspect since I have no idea why the car was parked. I could have the injectors tested/replaced, and replace the sensors, but without another 85(or possibly 86/87...maybe) to swap it into I have no way to test it.
Even then, it's still a sub-optimal sysytem that chokes the engine. I'd rather save up the ~$800 for one of those bolt-on TBI all-in-one setups.
I don't know if this is the same problem you're having but I'll describe it to you in case it is. My mustang (with a Holley 4160 on it) was giving me trouble the other day. The idle would quickly deteriorate...or it would just plain die. It would run fine when you gave it some throttle and "cleared it out". Seemed like it was overfueling at idle. It wouldn't start without a lot of throttle.
I looked down the carburetor while it was idling (dying, really) and noticed fuel dripping from the secondary booster (I think that's what it's called). Turns out I had junk in my needle/seat keeping it open. Since mine has an electric fuel pump I was able to confirm it was dripping even after the engine had quit running.
This is where I was happy it was a Holley. It's SO EASY to remove the float bowls on a Holley and check/clean stuff like this.
In reply to ClemSparks:
Thanks! I'll check that out on mine. Since the pump runs with the key on it'll be an easy test for me too.
Last holley i had would act funny. I had to keep chasing the idle air bleeds (tiny holes right next to the boosters on the primary side) because they would build up crust. Holley told me due to ethanol.
lrrs
Reader
4/25/17 9:10 a.m.
Pete Gossett wrote:
I had some time left, so I pushed it outside and attempted to start it. It fired up fairly quickly, but didn't want to stay running. After 3 tries it failed to restart, and it smells like it's flooded again. FML
Check your fuel pressure. I converted a car way back in the 90s to a holley, and the pump over powered the float valves/seats. It would spuracially flood the engine. Changed to an older mechanical pump for a carb with no return that I has sitting around, problem fixed.
I found the issue after a shop looked at it and could not figure it out. They just kept telling me I needed a smaller carb.
SkinnyG
SuperDork
4/25/17 9:45 a.m.
I went back through the thread rather quickly but couldn't find it - what fuel pump are you using?
The original in-tank pump will be WAY too much pressure.
Do you have a inline filter? Gunk gets in and mucks things up. My guess aligns with Clem, floats may be hung up. Try tapping them, easy things first, there is always time to make life more difficult.
I think you had added a fuel pressure gauge. For a carb only need less than 5 PSI, for some even 5 is to high. Typical weber only wants 2-3 PSI, but enough volume to not run low at wide open. Not sure how much a Holley will tolerate....
6.5 psi is perfect for a holley
Get a regulator with a gauge - easy adjustment!
I actually have 2 gauges - one on the regulator, and one on the line just after it - and they both read 6psi. I've thought about bumping the pressure up a bit, but I didn't think it was necessary yet since I've not even had a chance to road-test the car.
Remember how I told you to do the float level and set the Air bleeds and the idle speed adjustment....... Just do it again, start with a rag under the carb to catch fuel over flow.
Is your regulator rated for psi that low? They can do weird stuff operating with a large pressure differential when at the low end of, or below, intended pressure range.
You could be getting random spikes in pressure followed by sudden starvation as the regulator tries to operate, making for unreliable gph/lph.
In theory, this could cause the flooded-but-still-starving issue you're having.
Was there a backfire? Holley power valves are known to eat it if there is a backfire
Holley carb question: When adjusting the float level while the fuel system is pressurized, should fuel leak/spray out of the adjustment nut/lock screw area, with the lock screw backed out 1/4-turn?
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Thanks. The Holley manual mentions using a rag when checking the site plugs, but doesn't say anything about it when adjusting the level, so I was afraid I'd screwed something up.
Both fuel bowls looked empty. I powered up the pump, had a steady 6psi, and when I checked the primary level it was a bit high so I backed it down. I couldn't see any fuel in the secondary though, so I was adjusting the float when it started leaking. I'll continue on.
I usually only crack the screw. Limits the amount of spewage when setting the floats. Also, dont do it on a hot engine. Ask me how i set a el Camino on fire....