Poor life choices - C4 content

Thank you. I'm spending your money LOL, but consider new calipers. Brakes are kind of important. Keep up the good work!

GTXVette wrote: I'm thinking fine thread where they go into the alum. intake then Course for the clamp nuts.

Actually it's just the opposite...and I confirmed the manifold is completely stripped. I attempted the trick I read about here of using some wire inside the hole to help the threads bite, but that didn't do any good at all.

I need to check the coarse thread pitch, but Google says it's 5/16"-18, and if it is, the one Napa that's open Sundays here in town shows they have a Helicoil set for it.

that is kinda funny, I'd have thought the fine pitch would be in softer Material, Duh. I had better check my life and you should check EVERYTHING I ever Told ya! Epoxy Dem Bitc-- in.Ya know that Thread maker Stuff By JB.

Minor update: I picked up the correct 5/16"-18 helicoil kit at the one area Napa that's open on Sunday...then spent the rest of the day power-washing my siding. Ugh. So I went out tonight, pulled off the carb & installed the helicoil for the stripped carb stud, only to find one other one was stripped when I reassembled it. By that point my cordless drill was about dead & the mosquitos had found me, so I'll have to go back out tomorrow & finish up.

A third hole felt a bit wobbly (although the stud tightened up fine), so I'm considering doing all the remaining 3 holes - any reason not to?

I don't see why you couldn't, helicoiling stuff preemptively is a thing.

In reply to BrokenYugo:

Thanks, I wasn't sure if they were considered more of a "last resort" type thing.

Heliciols in aluminum is just a good idea.... Normally manifold studs are not removed very often so aluminum threads are typically fine. Aluminum threads often don't hold up very well. A second option, since these studs are not normally removed, would be to epoxy the studs into the aluminum manifold, but if the threads are really bad this might not be a good option.

In reply to TED_fiestaHP:

Thanks, I'll do the remaining 3 tonight and hopefully not have to worry about it again. Should I use some epoxy along with the helicons too?

Well these studs you don't want to ever remove, and if one were to back out, it could make carb removal harder. So why not glue them in.... I get stuff like helicoils from McMaster Carr, they have all kinds of hardware, and I typically get it the next day. Steel, and epoxy I get from aircraft spruce. For epoxy it's either JB weld or T-88.

Helicoils don't usually need an adhesive - they stay put just fine by themselves.

I don't think he wants to ever remove these studs. So that kind of assembly I would put the helicoil in with red Loctite and then epoxy the stud in. The stud will stay put. I often use red Loctite to put the helicoil in, it basically provides lubricant to make getting it in easier, then it dry's and keeps the coil from ever backing out. But might not be needed. To thread the coil in, I cut a little slot in a allen socket, that works better than the tool that they provide in the kit. Once threaded in all the way, tap the allen socket with a hammer and the tang will pop off.

I would red loctite the coil in but should be no need to permanently epoxy/glue the studs in. You probably won't need to remove them but maybe some day you would; maybe you'd need longer studs for example.

I'd put some blue loctite on the studs if there is a concern but even that is probably unnecessary.

I helicoiled all-4 studs, but didn't use any epoxy or loctite...and when I put the carb back on I still have a vacuum leak from the driver's side at the base.

I'm not supposed to use any type of sealant here, correct? If not, then apparently either my carb and/or intake are not plane.

In reply to Pete Gossett:

What kind of gasket are you using under the carb?

In reply to Pete Gossett:

Check the carb base for cracks.

You can use a smear of gas proof Sealer down Both side if you want But not a Bead, it makes scraping the gasket off a pain. Put a straight edge all four ways on the base,check for level / straight

In reply to lrrs:

Hmmm...I definitely will when I take it back off. I know it wasn't cracked when I rebuilt it - unless it was a hairline crack & not visible possibly?

In reply to GTXVette:

I'll check the manifold & if it and the baseplate look ok I'll try a smear of RTV. I'm pretty sure I already have some fuel-proof stuff(black?), but if not I'll pick some up.

In reply to Pete Gossett:

Hopefully you don't find one. If it was not cracked before and it is now, do a good job of checking the manifold mating surface to make sure it's flat before bolting on another carb.

Keep rocking as I said before I want to see you get this thing done. I'm pulling for you.

In reply to Stampie:

It's the paper gasket from the Holley Trick Kit.

I like this

This is potentially another reason you might need to remove the studs - to check for trueness and correct any deficiencies.

Are you sure that's where the leak is?? Or even that there is a leak? Not saying there isn't but I'd hate for you to chase a ghost

In reply to jfryjfry:

When I sprayed ether along the base of the carb on the driver's side the RPM jumped up considerably. It also sounds like a vacuum cleaner on that side.

And the gasket between the Carb Base and Body Is Good to go? Vacuum Cleaner? Sounds like an appliance Problem.

Too late now, but when you heli-coiled the holes for the studs, did you bevel the hole? If the edges are pulled up like little volcanoes around the hole and stud, it makes it hard for a paper gasket to do its job.

In reply to NOHOME:

No, I didn't think to bevel them, but the holes are deeper than the helicoil. Would the drilling and/or tapping cause it to flare up around the lip?