R63 AMG The Unicorn of my Destruction

The plan was always to have it be the primary people moving car until I'm down to two kids, so 4-5 more years. Of course that also meant that it would be hauling the family across the country regularly, a job at which it excells. How much does road comfort make up for the everprrsent potential that will might have to load it on a U-Haul and drag it back to Texas? And if I can only trust it locally, does it really fit in with the fleet? I don't know. It needs to get back together, actually work, and give me a couple of clean oil samples.

mazdeuce wrote: I'm trying to get myself psychologically comfortable with the idea that actually driving this means I'm going to need a new engine someday.

Start keeping an eye on CoPart for a damaged __63 with an engine that could be rebuilt and socked away?

In reply to Ian F:

That's really what I need to do. There is a copart on Houston and it currently has 109 Mercedes listed. A bunch of 55 AMG cars but only one 63. It's a 2014 and already and $20k, so it's out. There is a R350 that has the wrong color interior or I'd be tempted to buy it for some of the bits on mine that are worn and stockpile extra pieces. I should just keep a couple of copart windows open and wait. One will show up and then I can part it out and keep the engine.

You don't have to keep it forever. Try to get a handle on the expected lifespan of the engine, then sell before that point. We have one data point in this thread that says that they're durable engines that only need to be replaced twice to get to 290k Everything wears out eventually.

Regardless, you're years and years out from that point. Keep your eyes open in the meantime. This is not a short window of opportunity.

In reply to mazdeuce: New lurker here, picked up the thread at your TWS video. Just want to add my thanks for all your work posting photos and text documenting your progress on this project. Your positive attitude and confidence in tearing into this highly strung engine provides encouragement for us hack mechanics that they are indeed "just engines" and can be fixed using normal tools, a shop manual, patience and common sense. You and others posting on this forum inspire many to work on their cars. I enjoyed your comment about using tools you bought in high school, as I am still using the Craftsman tools I bought in high school in the early 60s to wrench on my own cars and those of friends. Experience with an early E46 BMW, which has survived numerous autocross and track days, has given me respect for German designs, although the complexity of the newer models is intimidating. Some believe the Germans design systems that are sometimes an answer to a question no one ever asked, and they use their customers to beta test some of those designs, but the performance usually does not disappoint. Looking forward to the day you crank the R63 back to life and enjoy the satisfaction of solving a complex problem through your skill, confidence and perseverance. Thanks again for sharing your adventure, it is appreciated.

In reply to tgc328i:

That is high praise and I'm sitting here basking in the glow of it. Thank you very much.

Still cleaning, today is the water pump. This particular pump is held on with eleven bolts in two sizes and three lengths. Attitionally it holds two idler pulleys which are location dependant.
This requires a map. Off came the gasket and out came the sharpie and utility knife. Everything is safely in it's place, and I didn't use any precious memory. All cleaned up. I cleaned the idlers and bolts as well and wiped the hoses down with 303 aerospace protectant. That octopus of hoses goes to the radiator, heater, oil/water heat exchanger, and electric water pump that circulates water after the engine has shut down if the computer thinks it's still too hot.

mazdeuce wrote: I'm starting to feel like taking engines all the way apart is going to become part of my life.

I don't see anything wrong with that. Have you thought about your long-term goals for this? Are you going to try and run it until you can no longer acquire parts, or eventually loan it to a museum? Or both? Lol

The shop I used to work in used a 70 C10 as it's primary "truck" with well over 1,000k on the chassis. It had (has?) been through several drivetrains (and seats) over the years just to keep it fresh.

Even with all that, it's still been substantially less expensive to operate than replacing it and starting the whole process over again.

In reply to mazdeuce:

Still this is one hell of a project to take on.. and honestly I think you're doing great maz. It's one of the more interesting projects that I've been reading and honestly I'm still a tad po'd that a berklying bolt took out the whole damn engine. Oh well...

How's the condition of the plastic connectors on the cooling hoses? In BMW land those bits get really brittle between 80-110k miles.

In reply to oldtin:

Well, without testing to failure they seem pretty solid. The only frsgile bit of plastic I've found is one electrical connector that is grey instead of the nice flexible black that all the others are made out of. Those hoses and connectors are going to be hell for someone in another 20 years if they want to keep these on the road. A bunch of custom T fitting and a horrible hose search to get things to fit.

At least those hoses are clamped together. Some cars have Y pipe hoses with a molded junction. Why? Who the heck knows. One would have to track down and ask the GM engineer who designed the dumb thing for a 1994 Oldsmobile Achieva. Same for why the heater core has plastic extension pipes heat shrunk onto its pipes. Over many heat/cool cycles they come un-shrunk and the floor inside becomes a swamp.

This is something 3D printers should be used for. Print full scale mockups of these engineering disasters and make the people who created them try to service them.

Anyone here ever have to work on a 4.7L Dodge OHC V8? There's a valve tool for the V6 and one for the V8. The tools are absolutely identical except for their part number. I called the company that makes them and other special MoPar tools (and has done so for over 100 years) why they made two identical tools with different part numbers. "Because Dodge wants it that way." I bought the "V6" tool for less $ and it worked perfectly fine on the V8 valve springs.

Two things I've been putting off. The first is the intake manifold. This was only going to be an issue if the motor was good, and since it looks like it is, I need to address it. The driver's side front fuel rail hold down boss is cracked. I suspect that means the intake is junk from a practical standpoint and it's time to find someone who put a blower on their car and see about buying their old one. Any leads?

The second is the crank pulley holding tool. I need this to get the crank pulley off so I can pull the timing case so I can replace all that stuff. It's Mercedes part number 112 589 00 40 00 but it's $250 when I search on that part number. There are plenty of other MB crank pulley holders that look the same and are about 1/4 that cost, but I can't find anything that confirms they fit the 63 motors. Any advice?

Hard to tell from the pic, but would it not be possible to have the crack tig welded and re thread the boss?

Looks weldable to me, or aluminum brazing rod.

The manifold has a coating over it and there is enough corrosion in the crack that it is pushing the coating off.
Whether it can be fixed was my next question.

Looks totally fixable. Heck, you could do it with two-part epoxy if prepped well. Is the coating basically silver paint?

Maybe it's just the light or something, but it kinda looks like it was cracked and repaired once before...

About 10 years ago I had a cracked boss on SBF GT40 lower intake similar to that. Actually thinking about it it was 98 or 99 so more than 10 years ago. Back then it only cost me about $20 to get it re-welded back on and a new hole drilled and tapped and the face machined on a mill. I'm sure there are places around where you are that can fix it. Then buy a cheap powder coat kit and do the best you can to color match the finish and re-touch that area?

Nope, totally borked- looks like you need to replace it with a supercharger!

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ wrote: Nope, totally borked- looks like you need to replace it with a supercharger!

It the only sensible thing to do.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ wrote: Nope, totally borked- looks like you need to replace it with a supercharger!

That was the origional idea.

Asking the local AX group for Houston machine shops right now. Not too concerned with the finish as long as the fuel rail stays put.

R alert R alert there is a R500 in Tomball on main street in the Executive Inn/El Emperador parking lot for sale. Silver with contrasting grey interior. 281-467-5065 or 281-797-5378 just sayin'

mazdeuce wrote: I suspect that means the intake is junk from a practical standpoint and it's time to find someone who put a blower on their car and see about buying their old one.

No, no, no, no, no. You don't need their old intake. You need the blower!

In reply to rslifkin:

I know. Maybe. We'll see.

Who knows Mercedes crank pulleys? This tool on Amazon says it matches to the part njmber, but it doesn't list the M156.
Tool on Amazon

Is the intake manifold made of aluminum, magnesium or some weird alloy? The grey oxidation makes it look like it might be an odd alloy, may not be easy to weld.

Quick reactivity test quoted from Weld.com

" One way to determine whether you have magnesium or Aluminum is by simply pouring some vinegar on the material. When you pour vinegar on Magnesium you will notice that almost instantly it will start to react. You will notice a bubbling or fizzing reaction that will tell you that you indeed do have a piece of Magnesium.

On the other hand, if you try the same test with Aluminum, you will notice that nothing happens. When the vinegar comes in contact with an Aluminum part, it will just sit there, in this case telling you that you do not have to worry about working with Magnesium."