wawazat said:Oh no! Broken mirror is how many years of bad luck? Is there a Porsche multiplier?
There is ALWAYS a Porsche multiplier.
wawazat said:Oh no! Broken mirror is how many years of bad luck? Is there a Porsche multiplier?
There is ALWAYS a Porsche multiplier.
AngryCorvair said:If it's like every auto trans I've ever done, the torque converter gets inserted gently into the trans and rotated until it engages all the different splines. Be sure to do this right! And don't let the TC slide away from the trans as you're jostling it into position. Then yes, after the trans is drawn all the way up to the engine,, you just rotate the TC until the bolt holes line up with the flex plate.
Hmm, I'll check tonight. Had to stop last night for a socially distanced visit from the eldest offspring and grandson.
What worries me is that after one of the times it fell of my E36 M3ty HF jack the TC was part way off. I pushed it on while turning it. It felt fine, but thinking back it turned too easily, I'm now worried it isn't properly seated. I guess I'll be able to tell if I can or can't get it to pull all the way up. If so all must be good, if not it's probably not seated and can't. Oh well, I'll find out this evening.
Today we get a chance to laugh at Adrian, while he realizes he's not the mechanic he deludes himself into thinking he is, was or may be.
OK, so after I posted the other day I talked to Patrick (Angry Corvair) and we agreed I should pull the trans again. Glad I did, the TC wasn't properly seated and I would have permanently janked something up if I'd finished pulling the trans and engine together. Phew, saved from myself. Score one for Patrick, he's earned his beer once lock down is over. Anyway, it's back in and all bell housing bolts are back in.
Then came the fun time of bolting the flex plate to the torque convertor. berkeley. This is why I've never had an automatic toy car before. This job would have been so so much easier on a manual. The TC bolts to the flex plate with six cap heads, they are arranged in three pairs approx 120 degrees apart. After re-seating the TC I rotated it so two of the holes were at the top, which should have been right where the starter motor is on the engine, and that's the hole you have to get the bolts through. So, it's all together and I'm turning the flex plate little bit by little bit until I can see the holes. Here's the issue, I didn't quite have the TC in the correct orientation. Instead of two bolt holes being lined up with the starter motor hole, only one of them was visible, right on one edge. That meant that I couldn't use a tool to feed the bolt in, the tool diameter was too large so it was at too much of an angle. instead I had to feed it in by my fingers.
Now, if anyone is still awake, they may remember before I started pulling this trans AAZCD suggested pulling the engine and trans together. Damn I wished I'd followed his advice. If I ever have to pull an auto on a Boxster again I will. A manual car would be way less than half the work and I'd probably leave the einge in the car. All the extra work is to be able to bolt/unbolt the TC and flex plate which means all the stuff needs to come off the top of the engine and the job done through the starter motor hole.
So, I'm fiddling around trying to get the damn cap head in and of course I drop it several times down into the black hole. Luckily every time I managed to retrieve it with my magnet on a stick. Eventually I got it in and managed to turn the engine the few degrees to get it's partner in. That took 2 1/2 hours so I'll rotate and get the other four in tonight. In fact I'll pull the first two and apply some thread lock before leaving them in for good. Now I can align things through the hole it's dead easy to reach. As soon as that's done I can put the trans mounts in from below and return Patrick's motorcycle jack.
Here's a tasteful snap of me getting that damn cap head bolt started.
In reply to Adrian_Thompson (Forum Supporter) :
"Get a mid-engine car" they said, "It's DIY friendly" they said...
nderwater said:In reply to Adrian_Thompson (Forum Supporter) :
"Get a mid-engine car" they said, "It's DIY friendly" they said...
Yes, yes, I deserve that. But to be honest. This is the only difficult thing I've had to do, and more than 50% of the work is down to having to access the TC bolts. HOnestly I'll defend the platform, it's very DIYable.
I haven't cracked mine open yet, but I have an air/oil separator replacement due soon. Probably will need a clutch soon too. And an alignment.
In reply to nderwater :
I did my AOS while the trans was out. Wasn't the easiest thing to reach even then. Looks like a E36 M3ty job with the trans in. If you need a clutch I's wait until then.
nderwater said:I haven't cracked mine open yet, but I have an air/oil separator replacement due soon. Probably will need a clutch soon too. And an alignment.
On the 2003 Boxsters and later the AOS is a lot easier to do. The earlier ones have a flexible hose on the bottom that is unpleasant to attach and clamp unless you have hands the size of a 5 year old and an extra wrist. Your car ('06?) should have a solid tube there that simply slides in place. Just be gentle with the flexible semi-rigid hoses that attach to the other two fittings. They may be brittle.
Adrian, I'm glad to see the progress. ...almost done. The second time you do all this stuff it's a lot easier. Still, Pray that you never have to do it again.
There's a fairly long (and getting longer as these cars age) list of jobs that my Indy won't even agree to do unless step one in the process is "drop the engine", they insisted on doing that to change the AOS, so I got a bunch of other stuff done at the same time because it was a small additional cost whilst the engine was out.
Well, several steps forward and several steps back. I'll say it again, a trans swap on a manual will be easy. No problem from below just swapping the trans, but if I ever do this on an auto again the engine is coming out too.
A couple of pages back I mentioned in the tear down that I broke the oil fill tube that goes accross the top of the engine as I didn't know there were two bolts holding it down.
Well with it broken I could just about get at the hidden bolt using my narrowest 10mm and loosest extension. THe trouble is when I put the new one in, there was no way to get the bolt back in. I figured that it was the alternator that was in the way. No problem, I changed the alternator a few years ago and it's a doddle from inside the car. So I move the seat forward, pull out the carpet and remove the cover. I then slacken everything off, but I can't get the berkeleyer out. All I can think of is that with all of the jacking the engine and trans up and down removing and refitting the trans, the engine has somehow moved on the engine mounts and once I can start it and drive around it will settle back and there will be room. No problem, I don't need to remove it, I can just move it sideways and my taping the bolt to the 10mm socket with some patience and wiggling I can get it in blind. Success, I manage that! See, I didn't need to remove the alternator. OK, put the interior back together and call it good for the night.
OVer the last week I've been puzzling over the vacuum system. Well even without trying AAZCD came to my rescue again. This thread on 986 forum was a great help http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/62979-vacuum-confusion-solved.html But even better, and what finally made it all click is a vid on You Tube posted by my hero AAZCD here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A731OcZVGTI&t=171s. Dude, you rock. I finally have it all figured out.
There's only one problem. The one vacuum connection I didn't touch was too the 'electric change over valve', but with working on everything, it has come apart on its own. Anyone want to guess where this is hiding? Behind the alternator!!! Bork, Borketty bork, bork bork. Yup, the same alternator that I uncovered and didn't manage to get all the way out before covering up again yesterday. AAgghhhhhh.
Time to walk away for the night.
Anyway, I'd already changed some of the vacuum line, but I'm going to go out tomorrow and buy some more along with a few spare connectors to change it all, as some of the joints feel a bit loose. I'll worry about replacing it all and getting the effing alternator out on Saturday.
Still spirits are up after AAZCD's past self unknowingly rescued me via YouTube. Dude, if we ever meet in person, beer is on me all night.
Awesome, I didn't even know I was helping you. You probably already know about the bushing that clamps the alternator in, but just in case...
Bugger bugger bugger bugger berkeley bugger bugger.
So I finally have it all figured out. Get the alternate out to get the vacuum line attached at the front and I'm putting everything together. I went to reconnect the vacuum line to the vacuum reservoir and the nipple on the reservoir, being 20-year-old German plastic bolted to the top of a hot engine, snapped off. Another wait while I order a reservoir and I now have to take one side of the intake manifold off.
Walking away from it for the day to help with yardwork. I will post more later if I haven't dropped a match down the gas Tank
Adrian_Thompson (Forum Supporter) said:Bugger bugger bugger bugger berkeley bugger bugger.
So I finally have it all figured out. Get the alternate out to get the vacuum line attached at the front and I'm putting everything together. I went to reconnect the vacuum line to the vacuum reservoir and the nipple on the reservoir, being 20-year-old German plastic bolted to the top of a hot engine, snapped off. Another wait while I order a reservoir and I now have to take one side of the intake manifold off.
Walking away from it for the day to help with yardwork. I will post more later if I haven't dropped a match down the gas Tank
Could be worse - you could have eight or nine of them.
Right, well after Saturday I intended to walk away for a while then start removing the intake and or work on putting the exhaust back on. After yard work we went for a nature walk, picking up some sandwiches on the way. Well things went down hill quickly. About 15mins into the walk I started throwing up, frequently and hard. There were other people out walking, where I started throwing up was as the path crossed a field so I was a good 10 feet off the path so people had literally acres to avoid me. At least two groups just turned around and went back the way they came from. Not sure I blame them. Got home and collapsed. Had another session throwing up about 9:00pm that went on and on until it was nothing but bile. My shoulders, back and stomach muscles are sore and the back of my throat is sore from retching. Couldn't manage more than the couch yesterday and if I say I"ve been to the bathroom 15 times already today I"m undercounting.
On the up side I"ve list 8lb's in less than 48 hours so far. So I've got that going for me.
Back to the car. Before breaking the nipple on Saturday I'd figured out how all the vacuum went back together.....almost. There's one thing I'm not sure of. This being an auto rather than manual there's one more vacuum line that goes through a solenoid valve and then too a vacuum valve ont he side of the trans for a cooling circuit. When I took it apart I sensibly put baby colored zip ties on things, but they fell off. I'll snap a real pic when I get a chance, but I've added it to the diagram below. If you look to the bottom right of the drawing you'll see what was a three way 'Y' on the diagram an on manual cars. On the auto it's a four way 'X' with the extra going to the solenoid valve and then onto the trans valve. What I don't know is which way round the in and out are on the valve. Any ideas? does it matter?
Here's a quick pic from just now...
Front of the car is bottom right. This is the vacuum change over valve mounted at the back, top of the engine. Front facing hose connector goes to the vacuum source. Connector facing the right side of the car goes to the valve on the transmission.
I can do a quick video if this isn't clear enough.
Stay hydrated, wash your hands and don't touch your face. Get well Adrian.
Good thing all this rain we’re getting right now will wash that stuff away. Hope you fell better soon.
Crappola. So life's been happening, travel, work and family. But things have slowly plodded towards completion. I thought I was out of things to do the other night. What I have left should have been:
So I thought I'm >< close to starting so I better check the battery is charged. I went to reattach the negative lead, when I touched it, big big sparks, you know when there's load on something and you can fell a sort of click through the lead. Crap crap crap. I must have a short somewhere. How effing much am I going to have to undo to find out what's wrong.
AAZCD or others, any common lead you are aware of that people screw up? I'm concerned about damaging things so I obviously don't want to reatach the -Ve lead until I have some ideas.
I hate cars at times
Positive cable runs back with the shift cables to a junction block at the top front of the engine. From there to the starter. Main engine ground is from the bottom (right) bolt on the starter and runs to the bracket for the SAI air pump. Those are the most likely places to look considering the work you have done.
Tomorrow, I'm probably going to replace the AOS on a '99 Tiptronic. If you want pics of anything or want me to check exactly where a wire goes, I can get a look then.
In reply to AAZCD (Forum Supporter) :
Yeah, I guess I'll need to remove the intake again and check that area.
Remember I keep whinning how life keeps getting in the way. Sat was fixing a couple of gutter downspouts on one of the rentals, then the eldest graduation family get together in lie of a party. Then Sunday I got distracted by the deck. Two boards were coming loose at one end. Looked fine above, look what I found as I started removing things. Absolutely wiped out today.
That sucks, man. I remember helping you put the posts in for that deck, it couldn't have been more than about 12 years ago, right? I've heard that not all pressure-treated lumber is created equal...
OK, so life is finally allowing me to get back to the BOxster. Embarrassing issue. Some dumb ass (AKA Me!) Connected both the ground strap and positive cable to the starter solenoid. No wonder It sparked when I went to re-attache the battery. Obviously I was connecting things back to where the natural routing wanted to go. Luckily some fresh eyes in from Jeff (Gearheadotaku) spotted it. So the Q now is, where is the ground strap supposed to connect to the engine, I'm not finding it. The other end of the sire with the red arrow in this pic.
AAZCD (Forum Supporter) said:.... Main engine ground is from the bottom (right) bolt on the starter and runs to the bracket for the SAI air pump. ...
Made bold and deleted the rest.
In reply to AAZCD (Forum Supporter) :
Yeah thanks. I'd just attached it to there before coming back and finding your post. Well at least I've got it right now.
next issue, attaching that I moved the four way vacuum joint out of the way and the damn hose to the valve under the intake pulled out from the valve. Joint 19, hose 25 in this diagram. Now from above, engine bay side I can't even see it. I've just pulled the fire wall carpet and access panel again and can just see the valve behind the alternator, but simply can't reach it. I guess I need to pull the alternator again. Bugger said Poo
OK, Alternator out, again, I think this is the third time, and I've got it back on. Not doing much more today before family stuff as I was at the Kart track yesterday and have things to do. One step forward, 90% of a step back, but it's still progress. Let's get this damn thing back together before winter takes it off the road again!
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