In reply to loosecannon :
Enjoy!
FWIW, his chassis engineering book is a really good read too. Doing what you do, I imagine you'd like it too!
In reply to loosecannon :
Enjoy!
FWIW, his chassis engineering book is a really good read too. Doing what you do, I imagine you'd like it too!
loosecannon said:In reply to frenchyd :
What weave of CF did you use and where did you get it? I looked at Fibre Glast for supplies and one 5 meter roll of Cf is $250. I am definitely interested in doing the car in CF but just bought a few other bits for the car so my budget is tight.
Yeah, I work with these good people;
https://www.sollercomposites.com/Carbon-3K-Fabrics.html
They tend to have more sales than the other companies out there, plus they've provided great advice along the way as well.
Worked on it all day and made good progress but things are getting a little scary now
When I started making changes to the frame, my wife immediately started questioning if it would be as stiff as it was before (yes, my wife was asking about stiffness) so I dug up the old CAD file and started comparing. I spent pretty much all day today watching the IMSA race and trying to remember how to use the GRAPE CAD program. I made the changes in the program and ran the tests for stiffness and weight. To test it in the program, I constrained 3 of the 4 shock attachment points then applied a vertical force of 2000 lbs to the 4th shock attachment point. The result was a vertical deflection of .16" for the original frame design. I performed the same test on the updated design and it resulted in .16" vertical deflection as well. The old frame design weighed 274 lbs according to the program and the updated one weighs 224 lbs, a healthy 50 lb loss with no loss in torsional stiffness-Nice! On the left is the original and on the right is the updated design, as seen from directly above.
Whoa !!! What???? Wider front track too????..............you're getting way too serious now......this has ear markings of when you tossed the v12 and bgt coupe..hmmm stay tuned eveyone the Swatskinator is ALIVE!!!!
In reply to 759NRNG :
I know that it looks a lot wider than before but it's actually only 1/2" wider than the old splitter. I am allowed to be as wide as the bodywork covering the rear tires and that is 66", the splitter is 65.5" wide. The old splitter was widest at the bottom and tapered inwards but this one is straight up. It should provide more front downforce and that is what I need. I hope it's visual size is toned down with a coat of semi-gloss paint
I would have a video but forgot the sd card at the track. I've been getting the new splitter just right. It looks better in satin black
Looks like you're avoiding more sawzall action! Splitter looks good.
Adam
loosecannon said:I would have a video but forgot the sd card at the track. I've been getting the new splitter just right. It looks better in satin black
where's your engine intake pulling from again?
edit: just went back and watched "winter improvements #1"... I need to go back and watches more closely.
edit#2: new radiator... hmm, I think I'm going to enjoy where this is going this winter
In reply to loosecannon :
Will you add end plates to your splitter? I seem to remember S. Mcbeath(sp?) Areobites article gaining down force with a simple flat panel at the edge ahead of the wheel arch. And if the panel is removable. It could be used as a tuning device.
In reply to BarryNorman :
Technically, the splitter has endplates and the rules limit them to 34 square inches on each side. Mine are 34 inches long and 1 inch high. Trust me, I'm running things to the limit of the rules. New video coming later today, watch for it.
I had to wade through 42 individual videos to smash this video together. I finished up the splitter and started on the new hood. Here is the latest of the Winter Improvements Part 5
I cut out the roll hoop today, made me nervous. I worked on the car for 8 hours but don't have enough video to show you yet. A lot of time spent measuring, trimming, measuring, etc
I cut out the remainder of the old roll cage and started welding in the new one. I have the front end and door attached and have started getting the rear framework built. Click for Video
First View!
I'm not sure the word "improvements" really describes what you're up to and its not even winter yet.
Keep up the good work, it's looking really good.
Adam
In reply to adam525i :
I think making the car lighter and with more downforce is an improvement. I guess technically it's not winter yet but it has snowed already.
are you going to have enough room between the diff and the rear of the bodywork to lay the radiator horizontally? or maybe... more horizontally... because that could help you make more rear downforce.
In reply to sleepyhead :
The radiator position/mounting hasn't been finalized yet but I'm leaning towards making it more vertical and directly behind Panhard bar. The mounting for the rad needs to be robust (heavy) so I want the rad mounts to be as short as possible, plus there is a benefit in having shorter rad hoses because water is heavy.
Stupid question for the day......additional gusseting is in the future eh???
Why not mount the rad horizontally, under the diff?
In reply to SkinnyG :
He’s working with aero and using the air underneath the chassis to suck the car into the track.
Mounting the rad horizontally and putting a big fan on it to suck air up from the ground has been considered but I think it has some problems that I don't want to deal with. I will be having tabs come off the vertical panhard mount to mount the rad.
the other option is to mount it so it sits on top of the diffuser and is angled so it's "vertical" to the diffuser's top face... still pull air from as far forward as you can, and then exit it between the top of the diffuser and the bumper.
That will do two things: Use the fans on the radiator to "pull" the slowing boundary layer along the bottom of the car/diffuser back "into use" and leave "more energized" (i.e. faster) flow to travel along the diffuser. Secondly, it will fill the area behind the diffuser with low pressure flow (hopefully, depends on the fans' power), thus reducing the car's "effective" thickness there, and again help draw air out the bottom of the diffuser.
although, to do that "the best way", you'll want to duct that air as much as possible... which might be more trouble than it's worth
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