In reply to BrokenYugo:
Apparently its done is software now, and not adjustable on the one I have. I will check and see what setting its on, gas/oil vs electric are my only options AFAIK.
In reply to BrokenYugo:
Apparently its done is software now, and not adjustable on the one I have. I will check and see what setting its on, gas/oil vs electric are my only options AFAIK.
I'm only familiar with the mechanical kind, but you normally set them (as a starting point anyways) based on how much current the furnace controller is putting out. Googling around for a bit it seems that the solid state kind are supposed to more or less figure it out on their own, probably just not programmed with enough range for a RV fitted with an oversized furnace.
If you go to a mechanical one I'd go with a really cheap one that doesn't use a mercury switch (the house not being consistently level and all), like this one.
Awesome! By the way, I'd never seen the quick fist bracket before. Turns out a web search for those terms yields some interesting results!
In reply to BrokenYugo:
Yeah it seems they dont exist on non manual ones. There is no draw on this one, just an open/close circuit to tell the furnace to turn on or off.
In reply to ManhattanM (fka NY535iManual):
Thanks! I can imagine what that might have returned now that you mention it 
For those not brave enough to google, they look like this, and come in many sizes!
What he meant with the thermostat is set it to 65 instead of 70. Don't over think it.
In reply to Petrolburner:
Then the temp will swing between 64 and 70 or so, not ideal from a comfort standpoint.
In reply to BrokenYugo:
Exactly, I set it to 55, temps goes up to 64 after the burner cool down cycle then drops to 54 before the heat kick back on. Big cycles.
java230 wrote: In reply to BrokenYugo: Exactly, I set it to 55, temps goes up to 64 after the burner cool down cycle then drops to 54 before the heat kick back on. Big cycles.
I swapped a cheap digital Honeywell thermostat for the stock Attwood mechanical one and the temp swings were much smaller.
Petrolburner wrote:java230 wrote: In reply to BrokenYugo: Exactly, I set it to 55, temps goes up to 64 after the burner cool down cycle then drops to 54 before the heat kick back on. Big cycles.I swapped a cheap digital Honeywell thermostat for the stock Attwood mechanical one and the temp swings were much smaller.
In using the cheap honeywell :D Its just a matter of the cool down cycle on the heater making it over shoot the temp set point.
Poop tank just about all the way installed. Just barely fits.
Water tank arrived. Its going to be tight. Will need to pull my stops for the seat top to get it in..... Seems to be decent quality for the price though!!
Water heater set in place. Didnt eat quite as much of the cabinet as I expected. Lots of connections to make.
wow this build took off in SHORT order. I love what you're doing with this. Amazing work.
In reply to golfduke:
Thanks! Yeah being stuck without a winter camping truck kicked it in gear thats for sure!
Did nearly nothing yesterday, one coat of glue on the pooper connection. Will probably need another tonight.
It was a little wet Saturday.... Makes working on the truck miserable. I strung a tarp up between the garage and truck, that helped a little....
That's a gravel driveway under there....
And a half block from my house.
Didn't get much done. Started layout for the counter top. A lot of weird ass radiused angles on the stove... 1 3/16" radius corners?! Really?
Holes cut and nailed in place.
Weather cleared up for Sunday, good. Tile time.
That was a pain in the ass...
But my lovely wife polished all the edges of the tiles for me!
First row in. Glued down with polyurethane adhesive caulk. That was interesting to trowel.
Done! Well need to grout still....
Anyone recognize this extrusion? I'm guessing its not proprietary to TriVan. I need a couple pieces. You can see my dirt finger line plan :sombrero: Bob the rear end a bit. Should really help with the departure angle. I will have to re-do the hitch, but this thing is built like a bomb shelter. I don't plan to tow much more than my little aluminum boat.
These came to try to tame the ass end a bit too.
Man the progress on this has been awesome.
Sportwagen F450!
Interior is really looking nice. Way nicer than I plane to build my box truck. Maybe I'll need to step up my game a little bit.
In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid:
Thanks!
Petrolburner wrote: Sportwagen F450! Interior is really looking nice. Way nicer than I plane to build my box truck. Maybe I'll need to step up my game a little bit.
Did you upgrade to a box truck and I just missed it?!
Looking good! The countertop is a nice touch.
I was this >< close to starting my own RV build over the weekend. Found a Dodge extended, raised roof van for $1800 on Facebook. Damn near perfect foundation for what I want to build. Then the seller got weird.
In reply to Ian F:
Dooo ittt.... 
Thanks, Im excited to see it grouted. Just using a silicone caulk for that. Gonna be messy....
In reply to java230:
I was ready to. Was all ready to set up a time to see the van yesterday and without so much as a "nevermind..." the seller deleted me. Not sure what got up his butt. 
I love that countertop! I searched through the thread and it didn't jump out at me, so I apologize for asking a question you may have already answered: What type of tile are you using for that countertop? Just a regular ceramic?
Just got done reading the thread. Damn that's awesome.
OT: You just reaffirmed my love of tongue and groove board I think I'm going to do the wife's garage in it now rather than drywall work.
In reply to Ian F:
Thats super obnoxious....
In reply to wae:
Thanks! Its 18x18 marble tile. Home depot special stuff.
In reply to The0retical:
Yeah I was unsure of the cedar ceiling, but SWMBO wanted it, I am so glad we did, it looks great and really breaks up the space. And drywall works sucks.
"Grouted" the counter last night. Used black RTV silicone so it have a bit of movement.
Tape off all the edges.
Work it into the crack, then wipe as clean as possible down the tape line. Carefully pull the tape.
Then I crawled under to finish mounting the poop tank. Added large fender washer to the screws.
Now a question. This section of the tank is not supported. I hung off the back corner and it didnt really seem to flex much at all. Is it worth making a bracket to hold that back corner? Its 1/4" abs on that top flange.
Not much time yesterday, but hit the stove hole with a grinder to get it to slip in. Ebay damaged sink, of course its the front corner, oh well, it was cheap.
Dropped the water tank in, perfect fit (after removing my seat top ledgers :D )! Need to get some 1.5" insulation for it to sit on, then it will get permanently installed.
Connections are still going to be tight.
My solution for quick release tail light panels came too, needed to be able to drop them to get to the poop tank dump and the heater fuel tank. Should work ok, hinges were not working.... These will be a bit slower.
Its amazing how much time all the little stuff takes now...
Opinion Time!
Thoughts on propane tank right in front of the drive wheels? I found a ASME (permanent mount, DOT approved) tank, Its just slightly longer than I wanted.
It almost fits just right, right here:
A couple options, say berk it and it sticks into the wheel well a couple inches. Not ideal, especially is bigger tires are involved in the future. And it will get constantly pelted.
Option 2: Hack the box in front of it up. I could cut enough of it out so the tank would tuck forward, so the back is just flush with the wheel opening. This kills my dry storage though... I could put a divider back in, but it would never seal that well. Plus I cant weld aluminum. The up side is the stairs eat most of that box anyway, and they are often wet/snowy/messy anyway.
Option 3: BBQ style tank, originally I planned to mount it on the rear door, but it would fit in the space as well if I could find a nice way to mount it... Tank in question.
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