1 2
Bent-Valve Reader
9/9/18 10:09 p.m.

The good engine is from an automatic, as accordianfolder said, "RUH ROH".

After some research I find that since it is a 6 port it will fit. Now I need to get this off the old engine.

I read some people have trouble removing either part from the e-shaft. I notice the bolt holes lined up with the ridge on the main seal ring. I threaded the bolts through and added even pressure, a few blows from a small hammer and both the flex plate adapter and the flywheel popped loose.

It did take a 54 mm socket and this is where Pyro needs to be nominated as a Saint. I was using my very old 1/2" breaker bar and it got the first one loose, it failed on the flywheel. The 5 foot cheater pipe may have had something to do with it. I think one piece that flew past my head may be in orbit still. The pieces I found are in the bag.

So I was going to get a new 3/4 inch impact ($99) and Pyro decided to get me a pretty good HF 20v max 1/2" impact. It took the nut off in less than a couple of seconds. Advertised as 1200 ft lbs of torque, I hope it holds up I like it.

I had to use oil pan off the blown motor, so I had to clean the metal flakes out. This is with the baffles out:

And ready to seal up:

Cleaned up and baffles back in:

In the morning I plan to finish transferring the intake, electrical and exhaust stuff.



Bent-Valve Reader
9/10/18 8:09 p.m.

Totals for car right now

$2000 for the car and spare engine

While it's not a $2018 Challenge car I am building it in that spirit. So today I have to order my first parts. I found a good intake gasket and reused the exhaust gasket which was in good shape. The pan is sealed with RTV I had in the shop. I bought another tube just in case but didn't need it. The parts I have to order are the pilot bearing gasket, and a pilot bearing. I slipped getting the seal out and tore it.

But when that comes in, the "good" engine is ready to go back in.

The part I thought would be difficult was the oil injection pump. It turns out its a sensor and was a simple remove and replace. it slips over a stub kind of like a CAS on a Miata, just 2 bolts. The old one was smashed, who ever removed this engine was a little rough, sawed cables, hole in oil pan, intake vacuum tubes were mashed  and a smashed oil pump sensor. So I had to remove everything off the blown engine short block and put it on this one.

Finally I cleaned out the oil cooling system to flush metal flakes from the bearing. I used this old air compressor to blow the cleaning fluid through. It may fit the GRM spirit. A guy gave me 3 blown up air compressors (free) and this is made of the compressor from one, the motor from another and the tank from the 3rd one. I built it over 16 years ago and it is still running.

And Ziggy tortures and kills anything that moves, I feel sorry for the mice. Not. smiley


Bent-Valve Reader
9/16/18 10:12 a.m.

I made a new clutch pilot bearing shaft to handle the extra seal. It has 3 steps. The second one is .020 smaller than the seal. I'm just posting pictures of the tool for now, at 11:30 last night when I had gotten the engine in place but not bolted down I didn't feel like taking pictures, beside it's just an engine in  the bay.



Brett_Murphy PowerDork
9/16/18 12:27 p.m.

On the RX-8, it looks I think the rear counterweights are the same for all engines, but the front is different between the manual and the automatic. While you've got everything out, it may be worthwhile to confirm this, especially since you'd have the correct manual one from the blown engine available.

Bent-Valve Reader
9/16/18 9:20 p.m.

 That odd shaped counter weight with the 6 bolts is what the flexplate on the automatic bolts to. The round part just slips off and under that is the 54 mm nut.

On the flywheel there are thick places cast in and they serve as the counter weights. Sorry I didn't get pictures of the back of the flywheel.

Either one fits on the eccentric shaft (don't say crankshaft I found out...) using sealant, a key and that crazy big nut. I took the shot below to show the seal, but it shows the automatic counterweight on the toasted manual engine. I was trying to get the pilot bearing out. The grey goop is the sealant.


This is all relevant to the 6 six port high output motors, I have no clue on the early 4 port motors.

The only thing on the front of the motor is is the main pulley mount with a toothed wheel for ignition timing. I can't find any difference in the pulleys but did use the one from from the original motor. When you asked I realized it doesn't have a harmonic balancer, I guess because there are no pistons stopping and accelerating the other direction.

Now to add to my worry there are different numbers for manual and automatic e-shafts, but from what I can find out that is for the four port motor. So if it vibrates when I fire it up I guess I get to start over....

Tonight I got it snugged down on the mounts and 2 of the transmission bolts in. I'll get the others in tomorrow if I have time. I am on the down hill part of getting the "good" motor in.

edit -- posted 2 pics for some reason, removed one

wvumtnbkr UltraDork
9/17/18 7:12 a.m.

Does the rx8 have the issue of the Torrington bearings "falling" when you remove the front pulley without pressing on the flywheel?

Mr. Lee
Mr. Lee UberDork
9/17/18 2:13 p.m.

It's been a long time since I've snorted the magic dorito dust, but IIRC 50k was nothing for a NA rotary. more like 200k then you started thinking about a reseal. The street port/stock port turbo motors would go ~90k between rebuilds if it wasn't abused. 

Brett_Murphy PowerDork
9/19/18 8:23 p.m.

The front counterweight is under the front cover, number 11 in the diagram below.

fidelity101 UltraDork
9/21/18 8:10 a.m.
Brett_Murphy said:

Getting the engine out of the top is possible. It's just not easy until you do it the first time and learn the arcane tilts and wiggles you're going to have to use, and it has to come out at a steep angle. Unbolt it from the transmission for sure.

you mean the 350 shake? no problem!


@bent-Valve - why unicorn rx8 though? I see a sunroof. 

easy way would be to pull the engine alone, get yourself a series of LONG extensions and you can get at every bell housing bolt from the tailshaft end of the trans pretty easily. 


keep up the good work!

Bent-Valve Reader
9/23/18 8:30 a.m.

just drop it in...


Well I did, but now I am regretting that a wee bit.

This is what it looks like and has since last week before the front counter balance was mentioned. I started trying to get the front covers off, that means the e-shaft bolt needs to come off first.

A brand new impact that spun a 54 mm nut like it was a twist tie won't even budge it, the socket started to get warm from the hammering. I put so much torque on the one in the car I started to worry about damaging something as the parking brakes gave in and the car started to move.

I am researching front counterweights, they are different. One thread I found on another forum said its not a problem unless you run lots of high rpm.

So here is the experiment:

1) Control -- Finish install with auto counterweight, note vibration.

2) Variable -- Rebuild manual engine, install, note vibration.

I am not sure I can get this engine apart to replace the front counterweight without pulling it. Even locking the flywheel requires it separated from the transmission.

Brett_Murphy UltimaDork
9/23/18 1:06 p.m.
Bent-Valve said:

I am researching front counterweights, they are different. One thread I found on another forum said its not a problem unless you run lots of high rpm.


High RPMs are kind of the point. It may be fine for street driving for a while. I mean, it was a used engine in the first place, right? I wouldn't run LeMons or Chump in it. 

(oh, wow, this was my 7500 Post, glad it was trying to be helpful and not in the hotlink thread)

Bent-Valve Reader
9/23/18 7:43 p.m.


I think I found what killed the last engine, Renesis are oil cooled as well as water cooled. This is the oil cooler and the other one looks the same. I think the PO just washed it with a pressure washer and mashed the fins flat.

And I got the radiator in, here I am using double sided tape to reattach the foam. There are seriously 2 billion screws that hold this bottom tray in, it is nicely designed to control air though....

Now here is where "Smoky" earns his name....


Wait for it....




Wait for it....









I oiled the short block before I spun it so this is not bad or unexpected. I could only run it for a few seconds though, there is no antifreeze in it. I have misplace the hose that comes off the MAS and have to figure that out in the morning. Oil pressure came up and it died once or twice until the air was out of the injectors then it was smooth.


Indy-Guy UltraDork
9/23/18 8:46 p.m.


yes wink

Bent-Valve Reader
9/23/18 10:33 p.m.

Couldn't leave it until morning, it was not the MAS but the throttle body, and the hose was hidden under it. So with all put back together I strained the antifreeze through a coffee filter (Pyro's idea), filled it up and ran it for a few minutes.

CEL is on, and TPS warnings, I will sort that out in the morning, no really I'll wait until morning this time. cheeky

We put the hood on and I took it for a real short drive.

Transmission or throw out bearing is whining, I'll have to check the fluid level. Engine is smooth even on really old gas.


1 2
Our Preferred Partners