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93EXCivic
93EXCivic MegaDork
6/19/11 4:04 p.m.

Ok so this is the start of my build thread. Here are some pictures of the Spit in question it is a '64. Right now I am not sure where to go with the car. I can either keep it most stock just rebuild the engine and hot it up some and add some GT6 suspension parts. Or I maybe getting a RX7 rear diff and transmission and I can get a rotary engine. Which way does GRM think I should go? If I do go with the RX7 drivetrain, what autocross class would the car be in?

emodspitfire
emodspitfire Reader
6/19/11 5:26 p.m.

E mod

erohslc
erohslc Reader
6/19/11 8:02 p.m.

It's remarkably easy to fit a Subaru R160 diff without chassis mods. Mind you, that's just the diff. Adding the suspension bits and CV axles is a different story. But with the time and trouble you saved by not re-engineering. cutting, welding, etc on the frame, you'll have extra time to devote to the suspension, which you would have to address anyway

93EXCivic
93EXCivic SuperDork
6/19/11 8:15 p.m.

I figured if I didn't redo the rear suspension completely I would use a 240Z rear diff.

PS122
PS122 Reader
6/19/11 8:42 p.m.

Any race history, logbooks, etc?

93EXCivic
93EXCivic SuperDork
6/19/11 8:42 p.m.
PS122 wrote: Any race history, logbooks, etc?

I have tried to find some but I can't.

PS122
PS122 Reader
6/19/11 9:03 p.m.

You might check with SCCA oldtimer's in the region where you suspect it came from.

PS122
PS122 Reader
6/19/11 9:09 p.m.

Without any known race history you're options are wide open. Looks like a lot of fun regardless of the route you choose.

Travis_K
Travis_K SuperDork
6/19/11 9:22 p.m.

I think it would be better with the stock engine+performance mods than a rotary. I think rotarys sound really annoying. lol

erohslc
erohslc Reader
6/19/11 9:27 p.m.

The 240Z diff is a R180, and although it will handle the side loading from swing axles (the stub axles use a center bolt into a button on the end of the diff side gear), it is just enough bigger than a R160 to require some chassis surgery to clear the rear of the case. GT6+ Roto parts (uprights, lower A arms, shocks, trailing links) are easy enough to find and are nearly a bolt-on to the Spitfire chassis. Use CV axles instead of the Roto axles, along with Subie R160 LSD and you have it knocked. Should easily handle up to 300 HP.

Regarding race history, look for stamped numbers on the roll bar. If it was SCCA they will be the car's logbook ID.

Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon SuperDork
6/19/11 9:35 p.m.

Okay, stop and think SERIOUSLY about your future plans.

Think you might road race? Build a Spitfire motor. Stay with the stock rear suspension, no matter how crappy it is. Trust me, that will save you a LOT of trouble regardless of logbooks, etc.

Don't see that in your future, planning to do Solo 1 and 2 only? Look into an engine swap, from personal experience rotaries aren't the easiest swap but are VERY gratifying. Expect a LOT of aggravation building a rear suspension that will live under the pounding but again it's worth it. BTDT.

For that matter, either way you decide to go get a copy of the SCCA GCR (General Competition Rules) and sit down on the toilet with it till your legs go numb. That's the FIRST step. The last thing you want to do is build some fantastic superfast whatever and show up only to discover you are so far outside the rules that you are just plain screwed unless you want to start from scratch. For instance I know a guy with an Alfa transmission in a '71 Spitfire, the car runs in DP in AX but anywhere else he's in trouble. He can't road race it even though otherwise it fits in.

93EXCivic
93EXCivic SuperDork
6/19/11 10:02 p.m.
erohslc wrote: The 240Z diff is a R180, and although it will handle the side loading from swing axles (the stub axles use a center bolt into a button on the end of the diff side gear), it is just enough bigger than a R160 to require some chassis surgery to clear the rear of the case. GT6+ Roto parts (uprights, lower A arms, shocks, trailing links) are easy enough to find and are nearly a bolt-on to the Spitfire chassis. Use CV axles instead of the Roto axles, along with Subie R160 LSD and you have it knocked. Should easily handle up to 300 HP. Regarding race history, look for stamped numbers on the roll bar. If it was SCCA they will be the car's logbook ID.

I will try that.

93EXCivic
93EXCivic SuperDork
6/19/11 10:04 p.m.

In reply to Curmudgeon:

My plans are to basically do autocrossing and HPDEs but if I can find out about a logbook I may do road racing.

93EXCivic
93EXCivic SuperDork
6/24/11 4:08 p.m.

Well. An FC RX7 transmission and two RX7 differentials followed me home today.

triumph5
triumph5 Dork
6/24/11 6:27 p.m.

Are those genuine Panasport rims??? Looking past the garish color, they look like the real thing.

93EXCivic
93EXCivic SuperDork
6/24/11 7:03 p.m.
triumph5 wrote: Are those genuine Panasport rims??? Looking past the garish color, they look like the real thing.

I wouldn't be surprised. There are also two four spoke rims.

napa02
napa02 None
6/25/11 12:28 a.m.

do you need a decklid ?

93EXCivic
93EXCivic SuperDork
6/25/11 8:48 a.m.
napa02 wrote: do you need a decklid ?

I have one which I don't think is too rusty.

Maroon92
Maroon92 SuperDork
6/25/11 9:58 a.m.

Yellow is a "Garrish" color? I rather like it.

93EXCivic
93EXCivic MegaDork
7/9/11 10:46 p.m.

Here is a picture of the other wheels.  Any ideas of what these wheels are? Also where would the numbers be stamped on the roll bar?

MG_Bryan
MG_Bryan New Reader
7/10/11 1:17 a.m.

Those wheels look like revolutions to me. Suppose the could be a copy though. http://www.revolutionwheels.com/4-spoke/

T.J.
T.J. SuperDork
7/10/11 11:55 a.m.

I have 5 of those wheels, but mine are 10"x6" and painted black. Definitely Revo's or a copy of them.

T.J.
T.J. SuperDork
7/10/11 11:56 a.m.

Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon SuperDork
7/10/11 2:21 p.m.

The logbook number on the Jensenator's roll cage are on the right side forward brace near the junction with the main hoop.

Looking again at the main picture, I'm thinking that bar won't be considered Solo 1 or W2W race legal unless you can come up with the logbook number. The main hoop diagonal goes to the wrong side (it should meet the hoop near the driver's head) and the rear stays do not go all the way to the top. It's just about guaranteed to not be made of DOM tubing as well. If it has a logbook number stamped in it, it may be possible to 'grandfather' it in.

93EXCivic
93EXCivic SuperDork
7/10/11 5:46 p.m.

Ok so I think the plan is going to be rebuild the engine and add an early 1500 head, hotter cam, header and custom intake manifold probably with individual throttle bodies and Megasquirt running the injection. Strip it down to the bare chassis, add a R160 diff, custom bushings, GT6 front brake, GT6 front uprights, motorcycle shocks, and adding a camber compensator. I need to read up some more on the rear suspension but I don't think I am going to go crazy on re-inventing the wheel on this car.

The body is at best rough shape. So I have two ideas. The first is too find another body and bolt it on. The problem with this is finding a clean MK1 shell is very unlikely for cheap. So what other then the rear lights changed on the body (not including the hood) between the different years of Spitfires? If it is only the rear lights, I was thinking of just modifying what ever body I can find to take the MK1 lights. Since the commission number is on body, can I just swap that tag on too the new body? The other idea I had was just find another body in whatever shape and patch the two bodies together to get one good body.

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