Your frame, it looks like it was dipped in white chocolate. MMM white chocolate.
Your frame, it looks like it was dipped in white chocolate. MMM white chocolate.
maschinenbau said:I still only have about $3500 in the whole project.
I'll give you $3501 for it, right now, cash. 
In reply to NickD :
Sure, but first let me just add up my labor at book rate, say $100 per hour? 
When you're spraying that paint, what is your measurement ratio on the hardener? Are you thinning it at all? Sorry if you spelled this out three pages back and I missed it.
In reply to TVR Scott :
2:1 paint to lacquer thinner, with a decent splash of hardener added to that. So probably 8:4:1 paint:thinner:hardener or something like that.
maschinenbau said:a decent splash of hardener
Sounds like you're telling me your martini recipe.
I rebuilt the coilover brackets. I like them a lot more now.
I just love me some project creep!
Pete
In reply to chandlerGTi :
Bought a running (sort of) "53 Ford Convertible for $15.
purplepeopleeater said:In reply to chandlerGTi :
Bought a running (sort of) "53 Ford Convertible for $15.
What was this in reference to? My name changed a Loooong time ago haha
Comment about cheap transport.
Gotcha, I lived that for a long time
My gosh this is coming together beautifully.
The paint color on the frame is excellent. Keep up the good work!
I've just found this project, and only read last page so far, but... wow. The improved mounts are fantastic. Looking fwd. to seeing the rest of the "fab" fab work!!!
Back when Tokyo Drift came out I had wondered what a real car would look like when Japanese power and chassis where crossed with American cars. And now I know!
Great work!
(PS, if I had the skill to build the Mustang from F&F I would!)
Just spent half the afternoon catching up on this. Not sure how I missed it. Amazing work!
Thanks everyone for the kind words. I'm glad to know other people are enjoying this!
This weekend I focused mostly on the gas tank. First I drained out some 2+yo gas. It was pink. Then I had to touch-up all the cuts and rounds on the mounting brackets with the flap disc. I washed all the storage crud off and went full detail. 180 grit sandpaper, then 400, 1000 wet, and finished off with some Meguiar's 105 on the DA. It's all mounted up now with some rubber washers between the brackets and the frame. I still managed to scratch the E36 M3 out of the frame.
Finally just got caught up on this, I remember last time I had a look the new frame wasn't even done!
It looks great but I have one important suggestion, one I wish I'd made before you painted the frame, about the step-up in the frame at the back of the cab. If you triangulate the rear section like this, it'll make the whole rear of the frame much stronger:
It also looks like it could use a "front upper strut brace" of some kind, maybe either triangulating them both to a common point on the bar between them or joining them directly together with a straight bar if there's room, ideally you'd want to do both if you want a ton of chassis stiffness there.
Travis, you are a god!
What a badass thread, thoroughly enjoyed reading!
Among my long list of automotive shouldas is an opportunity some years ago to purchase a largely stripped Model A pickup w/Nissan engine and transmission. Not the car for long-distance travel but just the ticket for entertaining passage around the block -- or part-way around the block. In marked contrast, this project looks good --
In reply to GameboyRMH :
By racecar standards, I'm sure the chassis could be much stiffer. By hot rod standards, I'm bringing a nuclear warhead to a knife fight.
I spent the past few evenings researching wheel center caps to cover the wheel bearings and line mounting clamps for the fuel lines, brakes, etc. I simply wasn't satisfied with what I could find, so I designed my own and 3D printed them. Now I can make bespoke clamps for every combination of lines I need. These in particular are for the middle of the frame, holding both 5/16" fuel lines (feed and return), a 1/4" rear brake line, and a 3/8" spot for the rear wiring harness. All printed in ABS, so it should be somewhat durable.
After sanding away the "3D printer texture", they are almost a perfect match for the satin powdercoat finish. Everything I could find was flashy chrome and stuck out super far, like for off-road wheels. I'm really happy with these center caps.
Looks great! It's awesome the possibilities a 3d printer opens up.
I need a 3d printer! Thats amazing.
The level of detail here is just mind blowing. I've really enjoyed seeing the progress on this, thanks for sharing.
In reply to maschinenbau (Forum Supporter) :
outstanding work, as always.
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