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275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 5:55 p.m.

after a test fit, I ran into a little snafu. The springs and outer edge of the rails had a little interference issue and needed to be notched.

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 5:56 p.m.

So this is the last post before we're caught up to the current status of the project.

The rack, control arms, spindles, rotors, calipers, and springs are all bolted up. I left the shocks out for now so they avoid damage from any more grinding and dust.

old vs. new. Anybody need a full front end for an 1800?

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 6:04 p.m.

Okay maybe I have a little more to post. The xjs ran a 3spd automatic th400 variant. I wanted to run something fun. There are a couple options out there but I decided to go with a t5 based setup. I purchased a bellhousing from the guys over at 5speeds. The strongest stock t5 out there is from late model 3.8 mustangs (99+ iirc) rated at 310 ft/lbs. We will see how it fairs. The jag motor makes somewhere in the mid to high 200s stock, and with the planned custom intake manifolds and stainless headers I might be pushing it a little.

opened it up and checked everything, sealed with rtv just to make sure it wasn't junk.

bluej
bluej UltraDork
6/8/17 6:10 p.m.

Woah.

Edit: nvmnd

Please keep sharing!

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 6:11 p.m.

Next steps from here...

Immediately, I need to address the hub bore issue as the wheels will not bolt up to the mustang/pinto rotors. I have figured out a fix for this that avoids machining but I'm waiting on some supplies.

The engine will be set into place for motor mount fabrication next. before I take it off the stand, I need to seal up the upper valley cover on the engine. To do that, I need to pull the distributor, and to do that I need a lower timing mark plate to set the motor to TDC. For whatever reason that was missing from the engine when I purchased the car. I have one on order and it is supposed to ship soon.

mck1117
mck1117 Reader
6/8/17 6:12 p.m.

So there are now at least three of us here with T5-swapped "Volvos"?

In quotes because I'm not sure how car and NOHOME's car count.

Edit: Never mind, NOHOME has an auto =(

(but I'm still counting it because a T5 swap would be really easy!)

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 6:16 p.m.

Over on the turbobrick's forum, where I stole a few ideas about the frame rails , I decided I will build bent 1 5/8" down bars to connect the frame rails to the a pillars. I may take a more direct shot from one point to the other, but you get the general idea. I want to have the motor set in place before this point.

jimbob_racing
jimbob_racing Dork
6/8/17 6:17 p.m.

Wow. Amazing project. I can't wait to see how you tackle the bodywork.

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 6:20 p.m.
mck1117 wrote: So there are now at least three of us here with T5-swapped "Volvos"? In quotes because I'm not sure how car and NOHOME's car count. Edit: Never mind, NOHOME has an auto =( (but I'm still counting it because a T5 swap would be really easy!)

I've seen some guys throw t5s behind the b18/b20. Looks like a neat setup!

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr UltraDork
6/8/17 6:22 p.m.

Ermagawd! Yesss!

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 6:22 p.m.
jimbob_racing wrote: Wow. Amazing project. I can't wait to see how you tackle the bodywork.

Thank you. The tentative plan for that is to cnc a buck out of foam to use to build a fiberglass body and build the door jambs and outer door skins from steel. Another alternative I'm considering, building a buck from plywood and strips of masonite.

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 6:27 p.m.

For the rear end, obviously the wimpy dana volvo rear end can not handle the added power. They are known to break axles when pushed just over the factory power rating. I have an exploder (explorer) 3.73 lsd, disk brake axle that will be going in. I will have to narrow the driver's side ~3" and run another passenger axle in the housing to get it to a 56.5" track width.

Crackers
Crackers HalfDork
6/8/17 6:34 p.m.

Go big or go home! LOL

A CNC plug for the whole body? What the hell kind of work do you do to have access to that scale equipment?!

oldtin
oldtin PowerDork
6/8/17 6:47 p.m.

Subscribed! How did you do the bend for the rear crossmember to run over the driveshaft tunnel?

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 6:57 p.m.
Crackers wrote: Go big or go home! LOL A CNC plug for the whole body? What the hell kind of work do you do to have access to that scale equipment?!

Hah, I wish very much that I did. That would be something I outsource. There are a handful of guys on the kit/replica forums who've approached buck building this way that I'd probably head to first but I do have a couple friends in the aerospace and mold/die making world the might be able to help too.

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 7:00 p.m.
oldtin wrote: Subscribed! How did you do the bend for the rear crossmember to run over the driveshaft tunnel?

easy peasy, just buy it that way! The only drawback is it's 14 or 16 gauge rather than 11 like the rails.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chassis-Engineering-3638-2-X-3-Drop-Crossmember-/162500439422?hash=item25d5c7ed7e:g:L~IAAOSwCU1Y3FV9&vxp=mtr

T.J.
T.J. UltimaDork
6/8/17 7:11 p.m.

Awesome project. Looking forward to more.

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
6/8/17 7:40 p.m.

Are you 3D scanning an existing body or will it be your own creation from scratch?

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 UltimaDork
6/8/17 8:30 p.m.

In reply to 275nart:

I saw a North Carolina plate in one post. Are you a local? If so, im down for helping when/if i have time.

rodknock
rodknock New Reader
6/8/17 9:13 p.m.

Before they had access to a cnc/laser cutter, one of the guys at my last internship used a projector to trace the different parts of his buck at full scale. That might be a more cost effective way to make the buck. Machine time can be crazy $$$.

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 10:26 p.m.
NOHOME wrote: Are you 3D scanning an existing body or will it be your own creation from scratch?

Unfortunately the availability of these cars is pretty low and we're talking multi million dollar figures too. I have a scale model and there are a lot of 3d models available to play with online as well as many reference photos for making the buck.

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 10:26 p.m.
Dusterbd13 wrote: In reply to 275nart: I saw a North Carolina plate in one post. Are you a local? If so, im down for helping when/if i have time.

Hey man I'm outside Charlotte, just over the SC border.

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 10:30 p.m.
rodknock wrote: Before they had access to a cnc/laser cutter, one of the guys at my last internship used a projector to trace the different parts of his buck at full scale. That might be a more cost effective way to make the buck. Machine time can be crazy $$$.

That's a great idea. Along with that... there's this really cool program I know of called 123d make by autodesk. it lets you slice solid models and section them in various ways. This would allow for laser cutting or plotting then tracing in flat sections then piecing back together as a ribbed structure. check it out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ4cGrWDgG4

To have the body cnc'd I'm probably looking at $3-5k based on what I've seen others fork over. I could have the more intricate nose and tail sections cnc'd then fill in the rest with one of the methods I've hinted at or maybe another I'm not aware of. Finding symmetry across the nose and tail would be very difficult and the cnc would be an easy way around that.

Things like the grill, bumpers, and trim I can fabricate myself and I already have period headlights, genuine taillights, and genuine side reflectors. The headlight covers will be a breeze too.

275nart
275nart New Reader
6/8/17 10:37 p.m.

The nose and tail are drool worthy. This example I was able to see in the flesh a few weeks back and photograph heavily for reference. Although it's not a spyder, it's equally as breathtaking (I just want another convertible). I had a chat with the owner for 15 or 20 minutes too.

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
6/8/17 10:44 p.m.

Where did the suspension go? Last I checked it was welded in pretty good before you cut the frame rails short?

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