Volvo P1800ES...kinda

759NRNG wrote: Ok I'm going to be the E36M3bird here, nohome, maschinebau, crackers, if using Fitech TB and say perhaps O2's to dial in the 'tune' why bother with the cats?

Cause belts AND suspenders.

I have no personal experience with the Fitech and if it does not deliver on the scrubbed exhaust smell I don't want to be under the car doing a retrofit later on. Easy enough to do with the car on it's side. The Cats will do a bit of noise reduction. Plus they are cheap and I can't think of a downside to running them.

That said, I have read repeatedly that the cleaner exhaust smell is one of the big pluses for the catless muscle car crowd when converting to Fitech.

759NRNG wrote: Ok I'm going to be the E36M3bird here, nohome, maschinebau, crackers, if using Fitech TB and say perhaps O2's to dial in the 'tune' why bother with the cats?

I'm not sure I understand the question. I don't see how Fitech, properly tuned or not, is capable reproducing the function of a catalytic converter.

Perhaps I'm just misunderstanding scope of Fitech's capabilities.

Got an idea for how to get the mufflers where I want them.

Oh boy, I just discovered this build and it's going to take a while to read it all. Can you make a movie that compiles the whole thing into a 30 minute video? ;)

NOHOME wrote: Got an idea for how to get the mufflers where I want them. HOLY HELL that looks amazing,is this guy some kinda pipe savant or what?

petey wrote:

NOHOME wrote: Got an idea for how to get the mufflers where I want them. HOLY HELL that looks amazing,is this guy some kinda pipe savant or what?

...gonna go with the "or what" option.

I'm not sure I understand the question. I don't see how Fitech, properly tuned or not, is capable reproducing the function of a catalytic converter.

Having hung around the Mustang sites for many years -- there are LOTS of Fox body stangs in various states around the country that with STOCK Ford efi in good working order passed a sniffer test without the h-pipe (cats) in place at all. It would appear that back in the early 90's, the EPA specs were such that the cats helped assure that it would also pass a sniffer after the wear/tear of 75k-100k miles was hurting the cause.

So - the properly working efi system won't replace the cats function -- but if everything is new and working correctly, you don't necessarily need them to have the motor hit the early 90's emission targets.

Crackers wrote:

759NRNG wrote: Ok I'm going to be the E36M3bird here, nohome, maschinebau, crackers, if using Fitech TB and say perhaps O2's to dial in the 'tune' why bother with the cats?

I'm not sure I understand the question. I don't see how Fitech, properly tuned or not, is capable reproducing the function of a catalytic converter. Perhaps I'm just misunderstanding scope of Fitech's capabilities.

In theory, better control of the AF mixture "should" make the exhaust smell better, although I also agree with running cats. I also have no problem with EVAP recovery systems when they work properly. Reinstalling the missing charcoal canisters is one task I want to do on my Spitfire.

The plan at the back is a bit out of the box in that it involved ignoring the nicely located inlet that Flowmaster put on one end of the muffler, and making a big hole in the sides of the nice new expensive mufflers. How could I resist!

The challenge is to get the muffles spaced more outboard; at least to the point where the exit goes into the stock Volvo cut-out in the apron. Maybe further?

The traditional way would be to use two 90 degree bends to make a chicane. But that would push the muffler back a few inches and it soon runs into the rear apron. So, after taking a peek at the inside of the Flowmaster, the question was "Why not just make a new inlet on the side of the muffler and weld up the factory inlet? That was I can take a 90 degree turn after the suspension cradle and space the muffler where I want it without using any rearward space.

Might loose a little efficiency as the exhaust gasses will bounce off the other "side" rather than the baffle, but I dont see any reason why it wouldn't work just fine

Why not just install the muffler's at an angle?

Crackers wrote: Why not just install the muffler's at an angle?

Yeah, that. Couple tight 45's and bob's your uncle?

Crackers wrote: Why not just install the muffler's at an angle?

I'm fairly certain the desire is to leave the rear floor as open as possible for the fuel tank, which hangs down below the floor and on a OE car is pretty much level with the bottom of the apron. Even on a stock car, there isn't much room between the side of the tank and the unibody structure and rear bumper mount.

Ian F wrote:

Crackers wrote: Why not just install the muffler's at an angle?

I'm fairly certain the desire is to leave the rear floor as open as possible for the fuel tank, which hangs down below the floor and on a OE car is pretty much level with the bottom of the apron. Even on a stock car, there isn't much room between the side of the tank and the unibody structure and rear bumper mount.

I think you might be thinking about rotating the mufflers around a different axis than Crackers and I are thinking. I could be wrong, of course. I just don't see how rotating them the way that we're thinking of would affect anything in the way you describe that they already aren't affecting where they're shown in the pics.

Ian F wrote:

Crackers wrote: Why not just install the muffler's at an angle?

I'm fairly certain the desire is to leave the rear floor as open as possible for the fuel tank, which hangs down below the floor and on a OE car is pretty much level with the bottom of the apron. Even on a stock car, there isn't much room between the side of the tank and the unibody structure and rear bumper mount.

Give this man a Cupie doll! Yup, gonna leave as much room as possible for a fuel cell in the middle.

ah. i see. i'll shut up now!

loosecannon wrote: Oh boy, I just discovered this build and it's going to take a while to read it all. Can you make a movie that compiles the whole thing into a 30 minute video? ;)

Turnaround is fair play...remind me how many years I have been reading your MGB build thread? Going back to when it was a stock Red MGB GT?

...Like so.

Or are you putting in a side mount tank?

I did what you're contemplating -- but to get a dual center/exit set up on my 242. Used a set of Coyote 5.0L mufflers so it would be reasonably quiet. For idea generation....

[URL=http://s937.photobucket.com/user/MichaelYount/media/Exhaust%20system%20Change/2013-08-14175831_zpse56fcc7a.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s937.photobucket.com/user/MichaelYount/media/Exhaust%20system%20Change/2013-08-22101748_zpsabb08db5.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s937.photobucket.com/user/MichaelYount/media/Exhaust%20system%20Change/2013-08-26182103_zpsd783e755.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s937.photobucket.com/user/MichaelYount/media/Volvo%20exterior%20shots/rear_zpsku4pttnf.jpg.html][/URL]

!! What does that sound like??

Like a stock new Mustang or Corvette.

In reply to NOHOME: Loose released the condensed ytube build of the Pink P yesterday......

This weekend was going to be dedicated to designing a new transmission cross-member.

Before I can do that, I had to finalize the drive-line alignment. With the goal being to have the transmission output and the diff pinion input parallel but offset, I took some measurements.

The gearbos tailshaft was adjusted to -3 degrees (pointing at the ground). this was a best compromise for space in the tunnel and to clear the new exhaust pipe routing.

In the perfect world, if the transmission is pointing down 3 degrees, the pinion input should be pointing up +3 degrees. Mine was at 0 degrees So, I had the joy of trying to shim the diff so it pointed up 3 degrees. I only made it 2.3 degrees before I started to worry about hitting the cradle. Called it good enough?

I really should have thought about this when I was welding the diff into the cradle. Lesson learned for next time.

Driveshaft angle turned out to 1.8 degrees. That should be plenty to keep the needle bearings rotating the u-joint bearings.

In order to not have to build the new gearbox cross-member while laying on my back, i decided to weld the transmission pan to the exhaust support that was already there. Its a scrap pan, so no harm possible. Credit the Minion for this idea; proof that feeding beer to smart people does pay off. I was busy mentally fabing a fancy jig to do the same thing!

Now I can work on the cross-member with the car on its side again.

The one task that was completed by the other Pete who helps with tin was to cap off the front of the engine compartment.

New goal is to have the transmission cross-member and exhaust done by next Sunday.

waiiiiit a sec. this build is Pete and Pete?!?!

headasplode

bluej wrote: waiiiiit a sec. this build is Pete and Pete?!?! *headasplode*

Actually, it's worse that that...Pete (moi), Pete (aka repeat) and Pete (aka "minion") can be found in the shop most Sundays