Volvo P1800ES...kinda

Loved that build thread.....great work while tip toeing around MOLVO. Praise be to HIM that it wasn't greenB....

759NRNG wrote: Loved that build thread.....great work while tip toeing around MOLVO. Praise be to HIM that it wasn't greenB....

You seem to have a soft spot for the GT...It is for sale for what amounts to $7500 USD

SOMETHING needs to become the project once the Molvo is on the road and since it is not being driven, the GT is at the head of that line. I am thinking LFX V6 with an 8 speed auto. If the GT gets sold, it becomes wheels-tires and Fox coil-over kit for the Molvo.

Don't want to do rust repair on my ES anymore?

NOHOME wrote:

759NRNG wrote: Loved that build thread.....great work while tip toeing around MOLVO. Praise be to HIM that it wasn't greenB....

You seem to have a soft spot for the GT...It is for sale for what amounts to $7500 USD SOMETHING needs to become the project once the Molvo is on the road and since it is not being driven, the GT is at the head of that line. I am thinking LFX V6 with an 8 speed auto. If the GT gets sold, it becomes wheels-tires and Fox coil-over kit for the Molvo.

Sure do, if I had it $$$$$, you'd have it, but I don't so you won't.

Ian:

I am the patron sint of lost causes, but I suspect that the parts car that I made coleslaw from was less rusty than what you have.

That said, replacing tin is not that hard and we could certainly discuss a project requirement list to see what might be done and at what price. Still ponder on occasion how it would have to come across the border. Probably the easiest would be if it were totally stripped and it came across as parts.

Speaking of interesting projects, I just ran across this over on the Garage Journal website:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6636126&postcount=38

Some guys are racing in the LeMons series. They started out with a BMW Z3 but kept getting penalty laps for being too cheaty. The judge told them to not come back with it as is, and they should do something interesting like put an AMX body on it.

They rose to the challenge, found an AMX, made fiberglass molds off it, and fitted them to the Z3 chassis.

I'd like to see someone do this with a real AMX for use on the street.

LFX....Lexus somethingorother???

300hp gm v6

In reply to NOHOME:

Well... I did try to tell you that. If it makes the challenge any more enticing, the driver's side is about as bad, if not worse. The car's saving grace is it's straight. The shut lines are pretty good for a car of this era.

It is pretty much a rolling shell now. Engine/trans and interior are all out. The dash (stripped) and steering are still in, but that's about it. Because there's nothing in the car to hold water, the rust hasn't really gotten any worse from sitting like this for nearly a decade.

The nose is pretty rusty as well. A previous hack-restoration slathered fiberglass and bondo all around the front turn signal areas in an attempt to make them whole again. However, that is the one "part" I have acquired. At Carlisle last year I ran across a complete and fairly rust-free nose clip for less than one of the CVI repair panels. Otherwise, most of the rust is typical for an 1800 and repair panels are available. The only area that would really need to be fabricated from scratch is the bottom section of the hatch opening.

But yes... how to get it across the border and back again is an issue I am not sure how to solve.

easy to get it across the border.sell it to him.then its just 13% tax to bring it across,plus transfer fees at the border,its negligible.then when its done buy it back,same procedure AND LESS TAX!!!!

What great progress! This is what I would consider now the fun part of the build, going from functioning to functional.

Run_Away wrote: What great progress! This is what I would consider now the fun part of the build, going from functioning to functional.

Interesting because this is where I struggle. I want it to be done, but know that there is a year of debugging ahead.

By the way...Mrs NOHOME did her first short drive and more she likeee what she feels.

In reply to NOHOME:

If there is a way to get it insured, just drive it as often as you can and fix one little thing at a time. I have my old Suburban (in another thread) that I got a sympathetic shop to overlook some things and give me a safety and now I drive it every day and keep tinkering with it. One by one all the rattles are going silent, wiring issues solved, sloppy shifters tightened and it's becoming a much easier vehicle to drive.

loosecannon wrote: In reply to NOHOME: If there is a way to get it insured, just drive it as often as you can and fix one little thing at a time. I have my old Suburban (in another thread) that I got a sympathetic shop to overlook some things and give me a safety and now I drive it every day and keep tinkering with it. One by one all the rattles are going silent, wiring issues solved, sloppy shifters tightened and it's becoming a much easier vehicle to drive.

exactly!

For a car with such a happy face, it has a sinister overtone when you crank the wheel. Banished to the front garage while I sort the MGB sill

<img src="" />

Here is what has to happen to the MGB...The front part of the sill that lives under the front fender. Needs little bit of caslte-rail, a little bit of middle membrane and a little bit of outer sill. Rot cut out.

Gotta do something to help offset the bet loss.

The B is gone. Came out nice and the effort will cover some of the cost of the new suspension that I need to order as soon as I make up my mind what suspension that will be Coil-overs or Koni?

This was the bad side. Took about twelve hours to piece in a new piece of castle rail, middle membrane and a chunk out of a spare outer sill.

The other side was not as bad but still took 4 hours to do since I had to fab and fit the repair panel from scratch. There were about 100 trips to the grinder to carve the fit for a butt-weld into the awkward shape of the sill nose.

The shell as it is now...the owner is doing a great job of getting it back on the road. It has been sandblasted and epoxy primed since it left my place the first time. The owner had a lot of the other bits chemically striped and has a lot of stuff ready to bolt back on. Also returned from the UK with a hefty over-weight baggage fee due to a bunch of stuff he bought like interior and wiring harness. The plan is to turn this into a roller and drop it off at the paint shop in September. Then re-assemble over the winter.

The next project into the shop is going to be a 1954 Healey 100-4. This thing is a dream barn-find in that it looks ugly at first sight with peeling paint and four falt tires, yet there are no rust holes anywhere on the car and it has never had any welding. Been sitting for 7 years and the owner wants to drive it again.

On the Molvo front, I spent an hour or so chasing a squeak from the engine. After changing an idler and lubing the rest, the minion walks over with a can of silicone spray and hits the belt with a squirt...instant quiet. I have now launched into the wiring: While I am fully aware that I could have the job done in a day if I used an aftermarket harness, where would the challenge be? Instead I will take a month or so to thin out the Miata harness. Fun starts with none of the connectors being tagged. Plan is to start with removing anything that was attached to the computer.

Playing soon at a theater near me....

This is going to take a while. Small bite out of the elephant last night. The pile by the floor perch is the redundant wire pile. Computer connected conductors are out of the loop. Starting to think that a wiring diagram would be useful.

NOHOME wrote: Playing soon at a theater near me....

NOHOME, You're my hero.

It is a 54 100-4. The thing has sketchy paint and one of the most solid unmolested bodies I have seen on a Healey. I was almost thinking I did not want to take on the job until I met the car. It would be a shame to take this one apart to restore it.

Full nohome rotisserie resto on the 54 100-4? or only those areas that present themselves as you progress? Staying tuned....

Wake the thing up from a seven year slumber so it goes and stops. Then home she goes.

Wham bam thank you Mam......eh

Ok I see you do touch and goes with POR15 info mercials....are we looking at six more weeks on the 54 110-4.... before molvo receives your undivided attention or pete comes in and finishes it for you ?

759NRNG wrote: Ok I see you do touch and goes with POR15 info mercials....are we looking at six more weeks on the 54 110-4.... before molvo receives your undivided attention or pete comes in and finishes it for you ?

Pete is helping out with the Healey and has another 68 Mustang fastback in his garage to keep him busy.

It is not necessarily a bad thing for me to take breaks from the Molvo. It was meant to be a 5 year project and I am at about the end of year 4, so no point in trying to get ahead of schedule.

Insert mandatory POR product placement on rear brakes of the Healey...