1 day ago in Articles
The physics behind load transfer are crucial to performance driving.
For those of you that saw my other thread titled "Should I? (Toyota Starlet Content) this is no surprise. For those that didn't see the first post, for shame!
Anywho, I brought home the Starlet and somehow managed to do it without having to live in it (my wife doesn't get cars the way I do but she is a great and understanding person). I have plans to build this puppy for the $2013 Challenge. The current list of "to dos" include
This car may be rusty (also a lot of hail dings) but once you get past that it is REALLY nice. The doors open and close the same as if they were new. The windows all work and are in good shape. The interior is above average for its age. It starts right up and runs pretty well. Also, it was $250. Yeah, 250...
And then one of my Galaxie for fun.
This might be considered playing dirty..
When I had my Starlet, I remember reading about a recall on them involving the rear control arm mounting.
You might want to check it out.
I don't know if it would still be covered but you never know.
Interesting. I feel like the would just want to pay me fair market value for the car ie 200 dollars
Sweet! I love Starlets! The guy over at JDM Legends has a sweet little project Starlet that he just put a 4AGE in. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this!
You were thinking light weight, DOHC V6? Maybe KL?
Want something sorta like the KL, but already in a RWD version? H25A or the H27A V6s out of the Suzuki Grand Vitara/XL-7 respectively.
The H25A could be found in basically every year the GV was made, and could be found with a 5 speed manual, in RWD. Made about 140 hp and 150 ft-lbs in stock trim.
H27A was in the XL-7. Pretty much everyone of them was mated to the slushbox, but the 5 speed can be bolted right up. Extra 0.2L of displacement gives you 180 hp and 180ft-lbs of torque. Engine is small, compact, and weighs in the neighbourhood of 260-300lbs ready to run (as reported by an aircraft company that converts them for aviation use).
Problem is, computers. ECU, BCM, Gauges, trans (for the auto), and all really, really like to see the other ones.
I keep hearing about those and might have to look it up. Clem Sparks here on the board wants to maybe build engine transmission swap plates so this might turn into a KL to w58 how to.
There used to be a kit to put a 3TC in a Starlet.
If a 3TC fits, then a 4AG will fit with the same parts.
I think the 3tc or 4 ag has enough power for my needs.
Rotary...I will have access to one that needs rebuilt soon. I'm not going to have any use for it.
In reply to ScottRA21:
Kl sounds awesome.
I like that h27 too
In reply to psteav:
Thanks man but I HATE the way rotaries sound. Just can't do it.
singleslammer wrote: In reply to psteav: Thanks man but I HATE the way rotaries sound. Just can't do it.
Really? That's about the only thing I DO like about them.
If you're blue-skying motors, a 2.2/2.5 Turbo Chrysler would make 200 hp easy and cheap-cheap. They're really compact and light as well, and RWD trans is easy to do, cheapish, and will hold up to 200 hp just fine.
Awesome! I used to have a Starlet and a Corolla GTS. I was planning on a 4AG swap but the Starlet got rearended and so I sold the Corolla to some fanboi.
In reply to psteav:
Yeah I had a 12a powered 84 and loved the smooth power but found it obnoxious.
F2T. Or just grab motor out of a b2200 and turbo it.
FE3 out of a base Sportage?
While I fully admit that the power would be ungodly, a F2T doesn't do it for me. I LOVE your car but I don't like it for this project. I am going to be looking pretty hard for those H25/H27A motors and the associated manual transmission. With that said. If anyone has a line on one, let me know.
Trans_Maro wrote: This might be considered playing dirty.. When I had my Starlet, I remember reading about a recall on them involving the rear control arm mounting. You might want to check it out. I don't know if it would still be covered but you never know.
Okay, I'm lurking all over this because I lack the interweb skills to show pics.But I gotta ask-Scott RA21, do those suzuki V6's bolt up to the standard Samurai/Tracker trans? If so, that's another great reason for my undying Suzuki love. Love the thread. Subscribed, voted up, etc.
I had an '83 Starlet a few years ago. I drove it to the Toyota dealer to pick up some parts that I ordered and it cleared the place out. Literally every sales, parts and service person came out to the lot to check it out. I think that the car was older than some of the mechanics.
After wasting hours on cruising the net it appears that the best rear axle is a RX7 GSL SE. These are a bit wide BUT they have a 1.25" pinion offset so I can chop the long side and use the short side axle for a reduction in length to make is pretty close to the same as the toyota.
Thinking about these wheels. Can be had in either a 7" or 8" width for around 70 a pop. Obviously this is a purchase for a later date after I have everything that is necessary for the build.
wheelsmithy wrote: Okay, I'm lurking all over this because I lack the interweb skills to show pics.But I gotta ask-Scott RA21, do those suzuki V6's bolt up to the standard Samurai/Tracker trans? If so, that's another great reason for my undying Suzuki love. Love the thread. Subscribed, voted up, etc.
The G-series and the J-series share the same bell housings (but different flywheels), but as far as I know, all the other engines use different transmissions.
Does mean you can mount a J23 to a Tracker's trans...but you need the J18 flywheel.
The H-series uses it's own transmission, and unfortunately, you do need to look for the 2wd versions, as they stopped using the divorced transfer cases.
Tore out the interior. I have my work cut out for me. The entire floor pan has issues. The center is ok but the edges are screwed. I am thinking about cutting it all out and putting a flat floor with square tube frame to support it. I think this may be the easiest and quickest way to repair.
More to update. I will eventually start taking pictures.
I removed the rear bumper which was rusted on. I then wirewheeled the entire lower rear section of the car. MOST of the metal out there is salvageable but not all.
I am starting to collect various parts to finish various drivetrains I have laying about. As of right now I have two possible options.
2001 CBR 929 RR motor making 150hp in stock trim. This would probably get some boost and an extra HG to decrease compression.
Pros: LIGHT, lots of revs, will fit with very little mods. Con: No torque, no reverse, rumors of fragile gear box but I have knowledgeable people who will argue that point.
1997 Buick 3800 FWD mated to a toyota W58 via a AX5 bellhousing. Why the yota box? I have it already, along with the motor. It cost $75 and should be at least as strong as the camaro T5 or s10 T5 that are my other options.
Pros: TORQUE, plenty of power, I can easily and cheaply do a top swap from a S/C motor for lots more torque and power. Cons: fairly heavy for the car, WILL have to upgrade axle, custom oil pan and maybe exhaust.
What is the word?
4 days ago in News
The Goodwood Festival of Speed delivers again. A Nissan Juke is taken up the infamous hillclimb on two wheels.
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