Tim Suddard
Tim Suddard Publisher
12/22/17 8:00 a.m.
feature_image

We used our lift to raise the engine/gearbox combination and gently rested it onto the engine and transmission mounts.

While the gearbox mount fit fine, we could not figure out how to fill the gap between the engine mounts and the engine. After making a few calls we learn that the odd tubular 1 1/8-inch spacers sitting in our parts bin were supposed to be used on the left side of the engine block to move the engine mount closer to the Elan’s frame.

While this was just about the wackiest engine mounting system we had ever witnessed, it worked perfectly.

Once the engine and gearbox were fitted we could connect the driveshaft—which we had placed inside the frame earlier.

Sadly we soon learned that the later 3.7:1 final drive we had fitted from a newer Series 4 Elan—versus the original 3.9:1—had a different sized yoke than the earlier style differential.

Thankfully, we had another yoke that we had on a spare later style driveshaft. We managed to get the problem driveshaft out of the frame and easily make the swap without taking the engine back out.

Read the rest of the story

gjz30075
gjz30075 HalfDork
12/23/17 5:45 a.m.

Looks good!     You may or may not know this but you'll have to remove the carbs  and the rearmost carb studs to fit the

body.     You probably do know this and the carbs are mounted for picture purposes :-)

Tim Suddard
Tim Suddard Publisher
12/31/17 8:11 a.m.

Yes, we know that the carbs, heater valve and even the studs that hold the carbs on need to be removed. This was done to make what we think is a super cool picture of a naked Elan.

 

APEowner
APEowner HalfDork
12/31/17 5:32 p.m.
Tim Suddard said:

Yes, we know that the carbs, heater valve and even the studs that hold the carbs on need to be removed. This was done to make what we think is a super cool picture of a naked Elan.

 

I too think it's a super cool picture

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