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  • PHeller

    Oct. 11, 2009 8:31 p.m. PHeller HalfDork

    KNB13 just rolled his 01 Mustang home, and it needs a few things (some of these things differ in opinion between us).

    It's got FRPP C-Springs and Tokico's, which lowers it a bit, but not like "omg that car is low" kinda lowering. He and I are both thinking that the car needs more curb appeal. I've heard H&R Supersport's go lower, and then there is always coilovers. Any other options that are in -2.25 or so range? Camber plates would be a big deal, but I'm not thinking he wants to spend more than $400 on a lower car.

    Also thinking 17x10 Bullit wheels (he's got 17x8s now).

    I think the exhaust is too quite, even with an aftermarket setup on there now. I like my V8's obnoxiously loud at WOT, but at least somewhat subdued at lower RPMs.

    Gears? Yes, it needs them. No idea how low to go though.

    What are the options on new seats? Ford put bench seats in the damn Mustangs. You call this a sportcars?

    Cams? Intake? Headers? What's REALLY gonna liven this beast up.

    Last but not leastly, all of these parts should not detract from the resale or trade in value.

    Let's say "if you had $1000 to spend a 01 Mustang, what would you do?"

  • Oct. 11, 2009 9:05 p.m. mndsm New Reader

    Spray it. Enjoy confused looks.

  • Will

    Oct. 11, 2009 9:05 p.m. Will Reader

    If I had $1000 to spend on an 01 Gt I'd keep saving my money and get a blower. Those engines respond to boost way better than NA upgrades.

  • V8er

    Oct. 11, 2009 9:18 p.m. V8er New Reader

    on my 2000 Mustang GT I dropped it 1.5 inches with Eibach springs and shocks. I like the look but in the future I plan on putting coil overs on it. As for more horsepower, I'm saving up to put a twin turbo kit on it. If I had to start all over again with just $1000 to start. I would put the Eibach springs on for now, try to find them used becasue I would upgrade at a later time, follow that with the short throw shifter. The orginal shifter caused me to tip anything that was put in my cup holders. And finally the gears are a good way to get the car moving without going in the engine. I went with 3.90 and I love the extra get up and go and still have decent gas mileage when I'm in 5th gear.

  • Volksroddin

    Oct. 11, 2009 9:18 p.m. Volksroddin Dork

    mndsm wrote:

    Spray it. Enjoy confused looks.

    sorry but the plastic intake dose not like presure

  • pres589

    Oct. 11, 2009 9:58 p.m. pres589 Reader

    Lighter wheels, lighter driveshaft, nice aftermarket shifter like a Pro 5.0 rig? Decent stereo that doesn't use some big stupid subwoofer box that takes up half the trunk.

  • Irish1

    Oct. 11, 2009 10:56 p.m. Irish1

    Don't screw up the suspension geometry by going TOO low. Better to work on tightening up the Fox body lack of rigidity with Sub-Frame connectors and clunk in some SA Konis. I think the H&R Supersports are utter crap: bad spring rate, wonk-up the ride with no handling benefit. Find the GriggsRacing and Maximum Motorsports web-sites and do the job right, and go to Corner-Carvers.com and get reamed for working up a "Low" Mustang for looks rather than function. Good luck.

  • PHeller

    Oct. 11, 2009 11:43 p.m. PHeller HalfDork

    It's my understanding that to go below 2" that camber plates, ball joints, bump steer kits, and all that razzamajazz is require to keep everything legit. Right? Hence why Griggs and MM sell coilovers as part of larger $2,000 suspension kits.

    Sounds like gears and wheels may be the only options as far as short-term fun is concerned. KNB is planning on keeping the car very long. Long enough to find the right STI, but the V8 is still tons of fun in the meantime.

  • P71

    Oct. 12, 2009 8:42 a.m. P71 SuperDork

    Mach 1 grill and chin spoiler, fogged/black background headlights (like the Mach 1 got instead of the bright chrome GT ones), 17x10 Bullit's in the rear ONLY. That'll get the "look" down pat. Seriously, it's the nose that makes GT's look wimpy with those bright lights and stupid "corral" around the pony. Do the above little things and revel in what a GT should look like.

    As for performance, the existing suspension sounds good. Throw in 3.73's and a pair of seats (Look at used Cobra and Mach 1 seats for the factory look/fit) with a new shifter (I like the Hurst and the Pro5.0). Get a better cat-back, a real CAI (I like the K&N FIPK kits), and a tuner (Diablosport or bust) and call it good.

  • John Brown

    Oct. 12, 2009 8:52 a.m. John Brown MegaDork

    +1 on 3.73s and a shifter.

    +1 on a set of GOOD headers and exhaust.

    +1 on a set of Mach1 seats.

    I would suggest a Diablosport tune as well but I prefer to take the car to a place like Livernois or Pauls High Performance and have then do a tune to the car versus a box tune.

  • ultraclyde

    Oct. 12, 2009 9:53 a.m. ultraclyde New Reader

    Waking up the beast requires a tune. Canned is okay and will cost you less, but dyno time will gain a few extra ponies. The tune also gives it an edge in sport driveability in things like throttle response and such. It made a WORLD of difference on my 05, but it's all drive by wire.

    I agree that the suspension is good for now, and that gears would be great. Doing a tune and gears for under 1k will require lots of wrenching on the rear end yourself, but it will be a different beast when done. Make sure to break the gears in right, they'll crap if not.

  • ReverendDexter

    Oct. 12, 2009 10:30 a.m. ReverendDexter HalfDork

    '01 has the PI motor, so that's a good start.

    Were it MY car, I'd start with 4.10s (only FRPP gears!), CC plates (Maximum Motorsports makes the best, and they're far from the most expensive), a CG-lock (seats are expensive!).

    I can't recommend CC plates enough. Without them, you have NO adjustment for camber OR caster. Dialing in 4+ degrees of caster does wonderful things.

    Assuming it's a 5-speed, depending on when it was made in '01, it either has the T-45 or the T3650. If it's the T45, you NEED to get an aftermarket shifter with positive stops. The stock shifter doesn't have them, and neither does the tranny. There have been many a bent shift fork caused because of this. My suggestion is for the MGW shifter.

    The rear suspension in these cars is HORRIBLE. The UCAs are responsible for 100% of the lateral axle location AND prevention of axle-wrap, and they don't do either well. Whatever you do, do NOT put poly bushings in them, or things will just bind worse. If you insist on upgrading the UCAs, get ones with spherical joints.

    The best suggestion is to replace them entirely, the popular swap is to a torque arm/panhard bar combo (though that's probably $800 if you buy new).

    You can go to what's generally referred to as the "poor man's 3-link" by getting a good set of LCAs (spring for a set with spherical joints on at least one end), removing the quad shocks, installing a panhard bar, and then removing the driver's side UCA. This is the setup I'll have on my foxbody once I stop being lazy and actually install the panhard bar sitting in my garage.

    I'll probably post more... these are the questions I answer all day long on moddedmustangs.com's forums... but right now the coffee's getting me all jittery.

  • Autolex

    Oct. 12, 2009 11:49 a.m. Autolex HalfDork

    Volksroddin wrote:

    mndsm wrote:

    Spray it. Enjoy confused looks.

    sorry but the plastic intake dose not like presure

    huh? pressure from what?

  • Will

    Oct. 12, 2009 12:11 p.m. Will Reader

    Autolex wrote:

    Volksroddin wrote:

    mndsm wrote:

    Spray it. Enjoy confused looks.

    sorry but the plastic intake dose not like presure

    huh? pressure from what?

    Nitrous backfires on mod motors w/the plastic intakes are particularly epic...at least I assume that's what he means.

  • knb13

    Oct. 12, 2009 2:51 p.m. knb13 New Reader

    Hey guys.. I'm the owner of the car.

    It currently has a Flowmaster catback and already has a pro 5.0 shifter... however there is a nasty grind going into 3rd gear so I think the syncro is on it's way out. It has the 3650 trans as well.

    I think it's loud enough but PHeller seems to want it obnoxious... however due to my 80 mile commute each day, i need to keep it civil.

    I'm thinking gears are next on the list and some 17x10s in the rear and calling it a day. Maybe the mach 1 lip up front.

    Thanks for all the ideas and keep them coming!

  • ReverendDexter

    Oct. 12, 2009 3:26 p.m. ReverendDexter HalfDork

    Based on an 80 mile commute, I retract my statement for 4.10s.

    Stock gears are 3.27s, though, so a bump up will definitely help of feel as judged by the butt-dyno. I'll jump on the 3.73 bandwagon.

    Depending on the backspacing, 17x10s may rub on the quad shocks. If you replace the LCAs with good aftermarket units, you can remove those, though. I've also heard of people flipping them for extra clearance.

  • Oct. 12, 2009 7:17 p.m. dj06482 Reader

    3.73s are a good compromise, I'd save some money to swap in another transmission before anything else. CG-Lock will take care of 80% of seating issues, and you already have a good shifter and exhaust.

  • ReverendDexter

    Oct. 13, 2009 8:28 a.m. ReverendDexter HalfDork

    dj06482 wrote: I'd save some money to swap in another transmission before anything else.

    Why swap out the 3650? What would suggest instead?

  • P71

    Oct. 13, 2009 9:14 a.m. P71 SuperDork

    I think he meant with one that has all good synchros

  • ReverendDexter

    Oct. 13, 2009 9:18 a.m. ReverendDexter HalfDork

    P71 wrote:

    I think he meant with one that has all good synchros

    OOOOoooh. I get it now, hahaha.

  • Oct. 13, 2009 9:45 a.m. dj06482 Reader

    ReverendDexter wrote:

    P71 wrote:

    I think he meant with one that has all good synchros

    OOOOoooh. I get it now, hahaha.

    Sorry, I should have been more specific. If it's grinding, I'd get that resolved sooner rather than later. Either fix what's in there, or find another one. Plenty of guys swap in T-56s into their SN95s, so finding a 3650 shouldn't be too hard. If you're using the car as a fun DD and aren't going the forced induction route the 3650 should hold up well, providing you aren't going to abuse it.

    If you'd like you can start with changing the transmission fluid and see if that helps the issue, a lot of people are running around with very old fluid in there. For the T-3650, I'd stick with the OEM stuff that Ford recommends. I've done a lot of research on synthetics in the T-3650, and came to the conclusion that I would use the stock fluid (my Dad has a Mustang GT with a T-3650).

    3rd gear is a common issue with just about every Mustang from the fox body era to the SN95s, as it's the easiest to miss. My theory on this is the drivetrain torques so much that there are a lot of moving parts when you try to shift. The aftermarket shifters can help in this regard, but part of it is that you have to be careful, especially since your synchros seem to be damaged.

    If you have an adjustable clutch cable setup, I'd check the adjustment on it to make sure the clutch is enaging properly, and check the preload on the clutch cable at the clutch fork. Improper adjustments (i.e. too much preload) can cause premature throwout bearing failure.

    The SN95s are great cars, the prices are dropping to a point where it's on my "to-own" car list. Enjoy yours!

  • ReverendDexter

    Oct. 13, 2009 12:26 p.m. ReverendDexter HalfDork

    I believe even Ford says to use GM Syncromesh in the T45 and 3650. I know everyone else does.

  • PHeller

    Oct. 13, 2009 1:04 p.m. PHeller HalfDork

    I thought SN95's were the 93-99 models?

  • knb13

    Oct. 13, 2009 1:08 p.m. knb13 New Reader

    but being an '01 it isn't an SN95...

    On my to do list from what you guys have said:

    • Obvious maintance... all fluids changed, brake pads, front end movement, ect.
    • 3.73s in the rear
    • New adjustable clutch cable (current one is not adjustable)
    • Pull the trans and replace whatever in third gear needs to be replaced.
    • While trans is out and I'm in there, new clutch depending on condition, possible lighter flywheel, and headers.
    • Once tires wear out on rear, get some 17x9s or 17x10s depending on backspacing.

    What do you guys think about wheel spacers to bring out the wheels to fill out the fenders a bit more. This can't won't be used for auto-x or anything. It's my semi fun DD until I can find the exact STI I want. I have a Honda F4i and a Cherokee as my other rides when I want a variety.

    What can I do to firm up some of the driveline movement... poly engine mounts/trans mounts? I don't mind vibration in a trade for less movement during shifting.

  • ReverendDexter

    Oct. 13, 2009 1:10 p.m. ReverendDexter HalfDork

    PHeller wrote:

    I thought SN95's were the 93-99 models?

    Common vernacular is that foxbodies are '79-'93, SN95s are '94-98, and New Edges are '99-'04.

    Technically, all of the above are on the fox chassis, '94-'04 on the "Fox-4" variant. '94-'04 all all technically SN95s.

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