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  • patgizz

    Jan. 21, 2009 9:27 a.m. patgizz Dork

    i decided to let the old thread die since 90% of it was off topic since i had not touched the truck since last summer.

    here are the pics from 2 days ago.

    so what you are looking at is a full tube chassis salvaged from a very retired camaro stock car.

    the racing class must have required an OEM front and rear lower control arm, because the fronts are mustang 2 and rears are B body GM. both of which are easy to cheaply source tubular replacements for. and i will be doing so as soon as i'm done with my post. tubular lowers in front allow me to ditch the strut rod setup.

    the front sway bar is a huge splined unit with greasable bearings in the frame, the front spindles and hubs are from speedway motors as is the steering setup. the rear suspension is a 3 link w/ panhard bar. the axle was a tacked in 12 bolt chevy truck unit which is worthless for my use, i'll be using a 8.5" 10 bolt 9C1 caprice posi/disc brake axle, bonus is the 5x5 bolt pattern matches the front hubs.

    it is set up with coil springs all around, not coil overs. as an added bonus to cheaper shocks, it has weight/height jacks at all 4 corners. front brakes are 12" with off the shelf GM D52 calipers.

    the body is in proper fore-aft and side to side location, but the cab needs to go up some. the running boards will cover the outside rails of the frame. the front suspension is jacked all the way up just to make it easier to work on, but when finished i anticipate a very low but speedbump friendly street ride height with the ability to drop it more if necessary for tracking. although i'll be completely outclassed in some wild unlimited class, it will be fun to show up to autocross in a 1940 chevy truck.

    the wheelbase is short of the original by about 6" which will help turning. plan there is to just run the rear fenders that much farther forward on the bedsides. behind the cab the frame is excellent length for the bed, in front of the cab is a slightly different story.

    forward of the actual front end of the frame rails is an additional 8" of structure housing extended strut rods for the OEM mustang II lower control arms. this all needs to go, and i ordered tubular lower control arms last night which delete the strut rod and all that stuff can be removed which will leave me in a very good place as far as frame rail versus front of fender goes. the previous S10 chassis i planned to use left the frame cut off at the very front of the steering box and stuff was going to be very tight. this chassis having the steering aft of the crossmember is perfect.

  • patgizz

    Jan. 21, 2009 9:29 a.m. patgizz Dork

    oh yeah, last night i built the cab mounts which i'll get pics of today.

    today i plan to rebuild the drivers side front cab mount area of the floor, which is rotted beyond use. it crumpled when sat down on the mount. the passenger front as well as both rears are structurally sound, i'll reinforce them all though.

  • patgizz

    Jan. 21, 2009 9:52 p.m. patgizz Dork

    here is the rear cab mount and the supplemental front mounts, the main front mounts are there but i'm not sure that i like them yet. i added the ones at the firewall because the structure of the cab mount wraps up there, the holes were there already, and i needed something to hold the cab in place while i rebuilt the driver side mount area. and 6 bolts holding the cab on appears what the factory had so that's good for me. my new cab corners, rear panel, front lower valence, and grille shipped today.

    tomorrow i'm going to rebuild the cab mounting area on the drivers side and hopefully locate the engine/trans to make mounts and get my mockup rear axle out from under the foot of snow and see how that looks.

    once i get the motor mounts, crossmember, and cab mounts completed and welded on i can roll the frame outside and go to town with the grinder and remove the last bits of roll cage then hit it with the wire wheel on the angle grinder to get it shiny and clean and then paint. then any other spots that need welding done can just be spot stripped/painted.

  • MitchellC

    Jan. 22, 2009 12:01 a.m. MitchellC Reader

    If anyone asks you what color you're painting the frame, just say iron oxide

  • patgizz

    Jan. 22, 2009 4:02 p.m. patgizz Dork

    working on motor mounts

  • eastsidemav

    Jan. 22, 2009 6:32 p.m. eastsidemav New Reader

    Cool. Well, you're a lot farther along than I am on my 28. LS1?

  • geomiata

    Jan. 22, 2009 6:47 p.m. geomiata Reader

    you sir, are the man.

  • patgizz

    Jan. 22, 2009 8:05 p.m. patgizz Dork

    5.3 iron truck LS engine with ls1 intake and stuff. i was going to run it in my old caprice so i put all the car stuff on. have a agressive tuned pcm, headers, and some other stuff that'll make it put out more than a stock ls1 so i'll be happy for a while.

    engine mounts are built, just got done with an hour of cutting and welding. so therapeutic, who needs a shrink when you have a welder?

    tomorrow i'll post pics of them and i'll be building the tranny crossmember and probably a bunch of other stuff. ordered adjustable rear lower control arms for an impala SS today to use in place of the stamped OEM ones. i'm trying to get all the welding done on the frame so i can roll it outside and clean it up then bring it back in and paint it.

    entire engine except the front edge of the crank pulley and water pump pulley is behind the front axle centerline.....

  • MitchellC

    Jan. 22, 2009 9:35 p.m. MitchellC Reader

    It's going to be a neat one, for sure. What transmission do you plan on mating it to? Did you get one with the truck engine as a package deal?

  • Travis_K

    Jan. 23, 2009 8:25 a.m. Travis_K Reader

    Doesnt the truck intake make more power? I seem to remember reading a magazine dyno test that said someting to that effect. If you have room for it there is no reason not to go back to the truck stuff. :)

  • patgizz

    Jan. 23, 2009 12:13 p.m. patgizz Dork

    the car intake makes more power, the truck intake sacrifices power at higher rpm for more torque off idle.

    i picked up a 23k mile 4L60-E from an 03 silverado on ebay for $250 because the seller wouldnt ship, so it kept the price down and i ran up to buffalo to get it. i have a camaro floor shifter setup.

    and stainless 4th gen headers. pretty parts. i'm brainstorming trans crossmember design right now.

  • racinggeek23

    Jan. 23, 2009 11:17 p.m. racinggeek23 New Reader

    My dad just purchased a 1938 Dodge Truck and the previous owner just swapped in a Buick 455 Stage 1 motor from a 1970 Buick GS. since the engine is rated at 425hp and 510ft/lbs from the factory, I'm trying to talk him into installing a Mustang II front suspension so he can get rid of the solid axle, and to get a 4 link for the rear so he can put the power down.

    I'll have to show him your build up and hopefully it will serve as inspiration to start working on his new toy.

    Mike

  • patgizz

    Jan. 24, 2009 8:51 p.m. patgizz Dork

    tranny crossmember done. engine/trans mounted with no additional support = big win.

    started defeating cab rust. have to deal with both rockers, corners, back panel, lower cowl sides, and drivers front mount area was shot. tackled the last first

    old crap:

    cut out the old

    make new

    weld in new where old crap was

  • patgizz

    Jan. 29, 2009 7:11 p.m. patgizz Dork

    heres an update

    i just bought this

    http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/1011803970.html

    i'm going to use all the new bling on that(grille, fenders, engine, trans)

    the 40 is now going to be a fenderless beater rod.

  • aussiesmg

    Jan. 29, 2009 7:17 p.m. aussiesmg Dork

    Neat stuff Pat, nice welding

  • ckosacranoid

    Jan. 29, 2009 7:49 p.m. ckosacranoid HalfDork

    cool project, keep up the updating and can not wait to see you finsh it. is going to be for the challange?

  • patgizz

    Jan. 29, 2009 8:43 p.m. patgizz Dork

    nah tube frames aren't legal. since i picked up the 46 to make the pretty one i could certainly get the 40 done under 2 grand, but it has a tube chassis which is verboten by the rules.

    the 46 is going to end up with the 40 front clip - i like the 40 one better and i've got brand new fenders and grille for it.

  • patgizz

    Feb. 2, 2009 8:37 p.m. patgizz Dork

    since i bought the 46 to make a pretty truck, i started making this one out of stuff i had laying around. today i got the new rails started. drivers side is almost done, passenger side is just tacked in and the old rail is still there. the drivers side front rail up to the spring perch is offset 1 1/2" for steering box to engine clearance so the passenger rail is running butted straight off the front rail and the drivers side is running off the inside of the front rail and i'm boxing everything up and using plates to make it strong.

  • patgizz

    Feb. 3, 2009 2:54 p.m. patgizz Dork

    new frame rails are done, i'll put up more pics later of how i did it in detail but here's a quickie trio of passenger side rail shots and cab back on the frame before i hop in the shower and go have dinner

  • patgizz

    Feb. 4, 2009 10:13 p.m. patgizz Dork

    even had time to bolt a greasy th350 to an equally greasy 350 that i had laying around. the 5.3 LS engine is going into the 46.

    so far i'm at $0 for the initial 1940 purchase(my mom gave it to me - she worked a deal with our drywall guy for helping him learn how to run his business).

    the camaro stock car cost $500 frame rails cost $73.81 rear springs and perches were $110

    everything else was laying around from past projects or was free. i'll have to buy 2 tires, some brake and fuel line tubing, a battery, possibly a fuel pump, and a carb.

  • AngryCorvair

    Feb. 5, 2009 7:00 a.m. AngryCorvair Dork

    i know where you can get a vortec-head, roller-cam, edelbrock carb and intake 5.7L with a new-in-box aluminum water pump, HEI distributor, 168-tooth flexplate and reman ACDelco starter for $600....

  • patgizz

    Feb. 5, 2009 9:57 a.m. patgizz Dork

    deal but let me pull some $ outta my arse first. i can paypal you a $100 deposit.

    the 350 w/ mild roller, vortec heads, rpm vortec intake, cheap blockhugger headers and full exhaust, HEI, and a free holley 600 with a rebuild kit got my 54 to a 13.9 quarter mile with a 2.73 gear - i'm a believer in those heads.

 

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