1971 - 1973 Mustang: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

Subscribe get a full year for only $23.95 Sample Free Test Drive—no strings attached

Dec. 15, 2008 9:56 p.m. Xceler8x HalfDork

I may be going to look at a 1973 Mustang Convertible in the next few days. It's the typical 302/c-4 drivetrain with some decent options installed like disc brakes and AC. I'm fairly familiar with these cars as I owned two in high school and college. I am a bit rusty as that was ten years ago.

I'm going there to check for rust in the usual places - frame rails, fender edges, sheet metal around the glass, and floor pans with the ol'ice pick trick. I'm at a loss how to check the suspension components short of a test drive as I know Mustang front suspensions can be weak. Drivetrains are robust from my experience. The prev owner says the car has 103k miles on it but I'm at a loss to verify that. I know of the pedal pad wear trick, interior wear, cold start to check engine and trans condition. Any other way to verify mileage?

Thanks for the help fellas and ladies.
Dec. 15, 2008 10:26 p.m. Trans_Maro New Reader

My buddy is a Ford guy but I know nothing about Mustang chassis.

I remember he mentioned to watch for rust in the torque boxes under the toeboards, apparently they're a bugger to replace.

Check for soldered in washer-looking things in the cylinder head freeze plugs. If the engine or heads are rebuilds they'll be there. If it's got 103,000 miles and a rebuilt engine it may have had a hard life.

Good luck with your purchase, at least it's not a ghia.

I do like the big mustangs styling.

Shawn
Dec. 16, 2008 12:01 a.m. HappyAndy Reader

Trans_Maro wrote:

I remember he mentioned to watch for rust in the torque boxes under the toeboards, apparently they're a bugger to replace.

correct, and since its a convertable also double check the rear torque boxes, rear floorboards and front edge of the trunk. don't worry to much about the front suspension, its realy easy to rebuild and you will probably want to add poly bushings any way if its not going to be a concourse type restoration. speaking of front suspension, check the front shock towers for cracks, not likely on a 302 car, but still check it. I like big body early seventies stangs alot. good luck
Dec. 16, 2008 6:46 a.m. petegossett Dork

I had a 72 notch in high-school. I was rather surprised when I backed into a telephone pole & the whole rear quarter-panel fell off as a chunk of newspaper & bondo.

Of course, I knew nothing about cars back then...
Dec. 16, 2008 6:52 a.m. SoloSonett Reader

check on the valve job history. My personal expereince , 302's need a lot of valve attention
Dec. 16, 2008 7:27 a.m. spitfirebill HalfDork

My wife and I bought a 66 Mustang in 1976 that was one owner with about 65,000 miles on the odometer. The damned thing smoked, apparently due to bad valve seals. It had a 289 4V.
Dec. 16, 2008 7:58 a.m. Xceler8x HalfDork

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm planning on bringing a magnet to check for bondo as well. It's just been awhile since I've checked out Amurican iron.
Dec. 16, 2008 9:24 a.m. Woody Dork

Pour a little water into the cowl and check to see if it leaks under the dash.
Dec. 16, 2008 10:30 a.m. neon4891 Dork

I still want a fastback 71-73, I fell in love after "dimonds are forever"
Dec. 16, 2008 9:47 p.m. HappyAndy Reader

Woody wrote:

Pour a little water into the cowl and check to see if it leaks under the dash.

'71 to '73 don't have that problem, at least not nearly as much as '64 through '68. in '69 ford changed the design of the internal plenum of the cowl. it was changed again in '71, so unless it was parked under a tree that filled the cowl up with leaves and debris it should be just fine. OTH if you do the water in cowl test and it comes out on the brake pedel, run away fast.
Dec. 17, 2008 8:52 a.m. Hal HalfDork

On the front check the "shock tower" where it is spot welded to the unibody. My B-I-L had two eartly 70 Mustangs where those welds had broken.
Dec. 17, 2008 9:19 a.m. MustangSix Reader

The 71-73 doesn't have quite the aftermarket support that the 65-70 models do. Not all the chrome, trim, and interior bits are available, so if anything is missing or broken, beware that it might have to be hunted down used.

I can't think of any other specific weak points. The level of finish and assembly were pretty sloppy from the factory, so panel gaps may be pretty inconsistent. Just look for rust. That's the big enemy.