A2 engine removal question: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

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Jan. 18, 2010 11:54 p.m. mrwillie Reader

I have a question for the watercooled v-dub guys. I started my first engine swap awhile ago and have been doing little stuff to the car for more time than I care to admit. Recently between school, and a new baby there hasn't been alot of free time but I got a chance to get outside for a few hours on Sat. My goal is to remove the existing 1.8 shortblock and install the 2.0 that I have, but I'd like to leave the tranny in the car while I do it( the less I remove, the less I have to replace, and the quicker I can get it done...). Bentley manual and the web is saying to remove the engine and tranny as one unit, but is it really necessary?? I don't have a cherry picker, don't have any place to store one if I borrow one and don't know when I would be able to dedicate the time to rent and use one. So I've been using a setup w/ 2x4's screwed together across the fenders w/ tie downs and a jack stand supporting things.

My plan is to pull the block( using a jack to lower the old and raise the new one ), and pull the flywheel to have it re-surfaced and do the clutch. Is there any reason logisticly why this won't work? Part of the joys of working outside in the open is that I have to be at a stopping point at the end of every session. I've got the late feeding tonight( 2am-ish ) and I'm tired already so I may not have made myself totally clear. Let me know if you need anymore info. Car is an 1987 gti if that matters.

Thanks, Will
Jan. 19, 2010 12:29 a.m. 7pilot New Reader

It is possible to do so but it is a real pain to reinstall. You would have more room if you left the timing gear off the front of the engine, but still.... It is preferable to pull or drop the drivetrain. It is easier on the mind, the back and the transaxle mounts to remove both at once.

m
Jan. 19, 2010 4:04 a.m. Travis_K Dork

That doesnt sound fun to me at all. Most people that i know pull the core support, and then remove the whole subframe from the car, then procede from there.
Jan. 19, 2010 4:56 a.m. Brotus7 New Reader

I've done several mk2 engine swaps. I found the easiest way was to remove the core support and the whole front of the car. Also, pull off the crank pulley. Then you can just pull the engine forward. You may be able to use a creeper/furniture dolley rather than a cherry picker since you can drop the engine/tranny down.

I would remove them as one piece, it will really be easier for you to work with the tranny since it can be somewhat tricky to align the engine and tranny, even on a bench since it has to be perfectly aligned.
Jan. 19, 2010 7:14 a.m. 7pilot New Reader

Yeppers. What will really torque you off is that the trans has to be manipulated rotationally and off axis in order to get the right side trans drive flange past the webbing on the block before you can mate the transaxle to the engine.

m
Jan. 19, 2010 9:13 a.m. mrwillie Reader

Brotus7 wrote:

I've done several mk2 engine swaps. I found the easiest way was to remove the core support and the whole front of the car. Also, pull off the crank pulley. Then you can just pull the engine forward. You may be able to use a creeper/furniture dolley rather than a cherry picker since you can drop the engine/tranny down.

I would remove them as one piece, it will really be easier for you to work with the tranny since it can be somewhat tricky to align the engine and tranny, even on a bench since it has to be perfectly aligned.

what do you mean when you say "the whole front of the car"? If I remove the core support( I'm assuming that you mean the support for the rad, lights, etc.... ) and then the bumper that would give me room?? Do I need to remove the fenders, also? I'm alittle confused.
Jan. 19, 2010 9:34 a.m. fifty Reader

In reply to mrwillie:

Right, you remove the front of the car (grill, lights, etc). The "core support" is the metal framing that the headlights install into. It also supports the radiator. You also need to remove the radiator, front bumper and the front part of the subframe. I don't think you can get it out without removing these parts.
Jan. 19, 2010 9:38 a.m. 16vCorey SuperDork

I've done it both ways, (insert bad joke) and it's MUCH easier to take it out the top with the transmission still attached.Just remove the core support, unbolt the axles, exhaust, wiring, and cables, and pull it straight out the top. No need to pull the crank pulley, sub-frame, fenders or bumper. It's really pretty straight forward and easy. The only tricky part is reattaching the down pipe if you have those stupid spring clamps. You can pop them right off with a pry bar, but putting them back on is a serious mother berkeleyer.
Jan. 19, 2010 11:35 a.m. Paul_VR6 Reader

I always go straight out the front (remove core support, rad, bumper, etc). Coming out the top requires a hoist that can go pretty high and more swearing.

Corey, you've had too many Mk1's where the out the front option isn't in play.
Jan. 19, 2010 9:15 p.m. mrwillie Reader

I really appreciate all the info. Ya'll make it seem so easy. I envy you guys at times. I tried labeling things and taking pics when I started removing stuff( over 3yrs ago.... )and I was trying to avoid removing anything else but thats out of the question now. I hope I didn't tweak things too bad doing it the hard way. A friend suggested using an A-framed support ( think lawn swing frame... ) and a come-along to replace the contraption I was using or a cherry picker. Should be fine in the weather,and I won't have to worry about it being stolen. I'm sure I'll back w/ more questions, but thanks again.

Will