Advice on fabbing a new AC bracket on 13B turbo?: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

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Nov. 14, 2010 5:40 p.m. sevenracer New Reader

Hi there.

I'm trying to restart my 13B turbo swap into my 1st gen project.

I think I am going to go ahead and get the rack and pinion kit from ReSpeed, but it apparently doesn't allow the stock A/C location to be used (don't have the parts to confirm yet).

I definitely want AC in the car, so I would need to fab a new bracket to move the compressor.

Anyone ever done this? Advice on how to? I don't have any precision machining equipment (or skills). I will be ditching the power steering on the 13B, so I may be able to use that location. Not sure I can adapt the actual bracket because it's cast aluminum and made for a much lighter/smaller part.

It seems like I would need to build in some adjustability to align the pulley with the drive pulley. Seems easier than fabbing the new bracket so precisely that it is perfectly aligned. I don't have a lot of good idea's yet on how to do this.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Neil
Nov. 14, 2010 5:54 p.m. Jensenman SuperDork

For years, aftermarket A/C used brackets made of 1/4" steel plate. On a 13B, that should be pretty simple to do. My suggestion: make the compressor bracket 'fixed' (the compressor stays in one place) and use an adjustable idler pulley to tighten the belt.

You could also move the alternator down on the drivers' side where the A/C compressor would normally be (I think ReSpeed has a bracket kit for this)and use one of those 'mini' compressors (like one from a Suzuki Sidekick) in the stock alternator location.
Nov. 14, 2010 5:59 p.m. Knurled HalfDork

FC engine?

Use an FC crossmember and rack - srsly. It's a little bit of fab work, but you get to use 100% FC engine that way, as well as the much nicer control arms, and the world opens up as far as suspension availability is concerned.

You will need to fabricate two mounts for the rear of the crossmember (chunks of 1" angle iron work perfect) and redrill/extend the front crossmember mounting holes. You will also need to find a FB power steering column, which makes for the easiest way to connect the steering together. I used '98-up Ford Escort strut tops, which are the same bolt pattern as FB (10mm instead of 8mm studs, though) and have a D-shaped strut stud like the FC (need to file out a little). Made my own spring perches out of steel plate and washers and used 10x2.5 coilover springs.

It seems like a lot of work, but compared to adapting a rack to a suspension that really shouldn't have one and trying to fudge a turbo drain into a front-mount style front cover...

Oh! I traced some oil pressure problems I had to front cover flexing allowing the O-ring to pop out. Stopped having problems when I went to the FC subframe... and used the RX-8 front cover gasket.
Nov. 14, 2010 8:30 p.m. sevenracer New Reader

Appreciate the input Knurled, but really not willing to tackle the FC swap.

Already have the front cover mods done, and don't want to swap wheels for the later style bolt pattern.

Kind of stuck on the 99% bolt in aspect of the Respeed kit. I can live without AC for a while, but I'd rather sort it out prior to doing the final install of the engine. I am trying to get the car back on the road by Spring (a stretch for me with limited time to spend on it - just can't get my priorities straight ).
Nov. 15, 2010 7:56 a.m. Greg Voth HalfDork

I have the Re Speed rack waiting to go in. I would also like to keep my AC.

From my talks with Billy it is not that difficult to adapt but I can't remember the details since its been about a year since I got the kit. Call or email him and he should be able to help you out.
Nov. 15, 2010 3:40 p.m. Brett_Murphy Reader

In reply to sevenracer:

A guy in the local car club here in NC did a 13b turbo 1st gen.

Here is a link to his page, he might have something on the AC in there.

http://www.cris.com/~Asam/Res7/Res7.html