GameboyRMH MegaDork
Dec. 13, 2016 12:22 p.m.

I've been thinking about getting one of these recently because when I had heat problems at the last track day, high revs alone really seemed to aggravate it, suggesting cavitation was a factor which is a known problem with these engines. I've been looking at the T3 +18% pulley in particular. I've heard that sometimes underdrive WP pulleys cause cooling problems at idle, which I definitely can't have. Anyone have any experience with a 4AGE in particular?

Dr. Hess MegaDork
Dec. 13, 2016 1:07 p.m.

What condition is the radiator in? What radiator fluid and what ratio are you using?

I used to beat on my 20v AE92 pretty darn hard. The only times I ever had it overheat was when a heater hose blew out and I lost the fluid and when the radiator turned to dust one day on the way to work.

If your radiator is in good condition, you should be using only Toyota Red coolant and if you're having issues, use a ratio of 1:2, that is 1 part Toyota Red and 2 parts distilled water. Not 50:50, 1/3rd Red. And add a bottle of Water Wetter.

trucke Dork
Dec. 13, 2016 1:13 p.m.

I agree with Dr. Hess.^^^^^^

When I had cooling problems with he FX16 it was because of the deteriorating radiator. Only had issues after back to back autocross runs. A new radiator fixed it! I'm running a 50/50 Toyota Red coolant/water mix with no issues.

GameboyRMH MegaDork
Dec. 13, 2016 1:13 p.m.

It's a 1-row radiator (stock JDM, US models got a 2-row), decent shape (just a few chewed fins on the back) running about 1/4~1/3rd Prestone Orange with Water Wetter.

This was also the first time I'd had any engine in this chassis go significantly above normal operating temperature without a hose blowing out. I'm sure the fact that I had some too-lean areas on the fuel map was part of it, but after the engine cooled down I went back out just keeping it under 6500rpm without any other changes, and while the temp did slowly creep above normal over the course of a few laps it was nothing like the first time out, where temps skyrocketed by the end of the 2nd lap.

trucke Dork
Dec. 13, 2016 1:21 p.m.

My radiator is an OEM replacement single row.

No overheating while bouncing off the 7,500 rpm redline.

www.coolestradiator.com

GameboyRMH MegaDork
Dec. 13, 2016 1:28 p.m.

Hmm maybe mine is giving up the ghost. A local radiator shop told me they could re-core my current radiator with a 2-row core for $350. Maybe I should go that route.

Dr. Hess MegaDork
Dec. 13, 2016 2:01 p.m.

Do you not have an O'Reilley's on your little island? Hell of a lot cheaper than three and a half bills. Oh well. Yeah, start with a new radiator if that one is original or a couple decades old,and a 2 core would probably fix your problems. I used to hit the 8K rev limiter EVERY BERKELEYING DAY in that car. I have not heard of cavitition being a problem on any 4AG motor. Far as I know, the 16v Formula Atlantic motors used the same water pump. I never heard of a different one. Different cranks to handle 10K RPM all day long, yeah, but never heard of a different water pump or drive. I think your overheating at extended high RPM is more of a high HP/high heat generating and weak cooling system, rather than cavitation, but that's my GUESS.

GameboyRMH MegaDork
Dec. 13, 2016 2:04 p.m.
Dr. Hess wrote: Do you not have an O'Reilley's on your little island? Hell of a lot cheaper than three and a half bills.

There are parts stores selling replacement radiators, but they cost about twice as much as they do in the US due to import duties. And they're all 1-row and plastic-tanked

Trackmouse Dork
Dec. 13, 2016 2:05 p.m.

Check your thermostat. It could stop functioning 100%. And only be like 75% travel. Also, check shaft play on the water pump and be certain the pump isn't missing a fin. It happens. Happened to me on a z car. I web too the pump off, check shaft play and looked at the fins. I saw one was missing and said "hey that's good enough!" Man was I wrong.

GameboyRMH MegaDork
Dec. 13, 2016 2:14 p.m.

All those parts are new on my car (and are Toyota-brand parts) - they only have a few hours of run-time on them.

The radiator probably is 25 years old now, looks like a factory unit.

Trackmouse Dork
Dec. 13, 2016 2:25 p.m.

Oh, 25yr old radiator? C'mon man, change that thing.

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