So today I was offered an '83 e28 528e for the outrageous price of free.
If it had a manual gearbox I would already be dragging it home, no questions asked, but sadly it has an AT.
The owner says that after replacing the engine a few years ago, it was never quite right, and he thinks the fuel pump is bad.
I'll cut straight to the chase now, I don't care about what's keeping it from running right now, I'm sure I can sort that out. What I want to know is: (1) Where do I need to check for hidden critical rust issues ? It has some visible rust on the back edge of the drivers side front fender, and the owner said that there is some rust in one of the rear wheel wells, but I didn't see it.
(2) How hard is it to convert one of these to a manual gearbox? If it helps, I wouldn't be committed to keeping the current engine. There are lots of Bimmer I6's with manual gearboxes already attached in the junkyards, I just need to know the easy route, if there is one.
It's only going to cause you pain. Send me your address and I'll take it off your hands. That way you can stay HAPPY. 
beans
Dork
4/25/14 12:03 a.m.
Probably pretty easy, it's a fairly old car(simple) and they made lots with a manual. Probably just a pedal swap and the other stuff.
Rust in the floor above the rear subframe mounts is what caused me to eventually retire my E28.
typically the rear license plate light area is rusted out. shouldnt stop you from "buying" it though. Just a thought, I've driven a 528e, custom turbo 535i and an M5(all e28's) back to back and they all handled like they were not even of the same platform. Fortunately with a bit of work any of them can be made to handle well enough for a 4 door sedan.
You could part it and get your money back 
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The floor of my similar vintage E21 was in bad shape. The foam rubber pad they used was like a sponge. I didn't notice it until I stripped the carpet. The outer edges of the trunk were in bad shape too. Other than that, its the usual places. Sunroof drains like to get plugged up too.
Rust will appear around the license plate lights, in the lower door seams, sometimes around the edges of the front and rear glass, in the lower rear part of the front fenders where they bolt to the body. More critical is rust in the floorboards, right where you put your feet - underneath the gas pedal, and next to the kick panels. The jacking points under the floorboards will rust as well.
An auto to manual swap has been done many times, it's easiest of course if you can find a complete parts car. There's a synopsis of the swap here: https://www.bmwcca.org/forum/index.php?threads/transmission-swap-thread-omnibus.3479/
FWIW, I'm still bench racing this idea. I do have another project car iron in the fire that I would rather pursue,(not a Bimmer), but if that one doesn't work out this is still there and still free.
I checked the links about auto to manual conversions, sounds like a PITA with out a complete parts car. If I'm going to track down another e28, I'll just find a manual with an M30 to start with .
That being said, my research says that an '83 528eA has a 3 spd auto. Are those units any good?
How are the M20 2.7 eta engines to drive? I've never driven an eta powered Bimmer, but they sound boring, and it looks like only the super eta's have performance potential with a stock bottom end.
Oh, and I read a swap thread on one of the BMW forums yesterday about an SBF swap, that sounds like fun, but probably over my head.
There is no point in working too hard on an 2.7 auto E28. It isn't the car anyone wants. Hell, I hear they are giving them away!
Wait for an M30 manual to appear and even if it costs you actual dollars you will be much happier. Unless SBF or LS is really a plan you can execute. Then... just find one sans rust and make a monster.
cdowd
Reader
4/30/14 10:28 a.m.
I can't belive I am reading on people telling you to pass on a free car. Even if it is only lawn art you must take free car. I has to be worth a couple hundred at the scrap yard.
