Hey folks,
I know some of you have Boxsters. I'm trying to figure out what kind of costs I can expect if I buy one as a daily driver. It would be a 03-04 S if that makes a difference. The internet is full of horror stories about how much they cost but it seems like most of those guys/gals take their car to the dealer for everything.
Buy this and read it.
Oh, it's that easy eh? Haha, thanks
Maroon92 just bought one, plus he's a pretty knowledgeable Porsche parts guy. He has a thread around here somewhere about it.
thatsnowinnebago wrote: Oh, it's that easy eh? Haha, thanks
No, seriously that's what I did before buying my Cayman. I needed to know exactly what I could handle myself. You can probably do more than you would expect.
Woody wrote:thatsnowinnebago wrote: Oh, it's that easy eh? Haha, thanksNo, seriously that's what I did before buying my Cayman. I needed to know exactly what I could handle myself. You can probably do more than you would expect.
Sorry, there wasn't any sarcasm in my post. I honestly mean thanks. Reading a book is way easier than wading through forums :D
They're really not bad to own and maintain yourself. I did all my own stunts, some suspension bits, belts, O2 sensors, plugs, wires, etc. Expect to do everything from underneath the vehicle (obviously), which is greatly helped with a lift.
Parts are going to be more expensive than a comparable Chevy, but overall on consumables, it's not so bad. For example, the brake rotors cost ~100/pc, but they lasted 100k. Some of the cheaper cars I've had would only cost $30 for a rotor, but they would only last 30k or so. So, net price was higher per 100k. Same with oil changes. An oil change will cost you ~$80 (Mobil 1 with a good quality filter), but you only have to do it every 15k instead of $25 every 3k.
Other parts are of course subject to the P-car tax, so expect finicky top microswitches and stuff to be stupid overpriced, but that happens on a lot of cars anyway.
Ugh. Don't change the oil every 15k miles. You're just asking for a IMS failure at that point. Don't forget this is still an engine that likes to keep it's oily bits clean. Very clean. Very, very clean. Change the oil at least every 5k miles. With a spin on oil filter kit (from LN Engineering) and a magnetic drain plug. Cut the oil filters open and examine for shavings. At the first sign of shavings replace the IMS with the LN Engineering kit. Or before that if you have to replace the clutch.
Only buy a boxster from someone who's been doing the above. Otherwise the price must reflect the uncertainty of IMS health and possible cost of replacement.
At my last 5,000 mile oil change (23k miles total), I sent a sample to Blackstone Labs. They found nothing in there but oil.
And that's my point.
docwyte wrote: And that's my point.
So.......buy cars from me?
docwyte wrote: Ugh. Don't change the oil every 15k miles. You're just asking for a IMS failure at that point. Don't forget this is still an engine that likes to keep it's oily bits clean. Very clean. Very, very clean. Change the oil at least every 5k miles. With a spin on oil filter kit (from LN Engineering) and a magnetic drain plug. Cut the oil filters open and examine for shavings. At the first sign of shavings replace the IMS with the LN Engineering kit. Or before that if you have to replace the clutch. Only buy a boxster from someone who's been doing the above. Otherwise the price must reflect the uncertainty of IMS health and possible cost of replacement.
Do you have evidence of this claim? Has a more frequent oil change interval been shown to reduce/prevent IMS failure?
Mine tested clean @ 12k... I did not test at 15k when I replaced the oil, as that was the book interval and I wasn't tracking the car. Obviously, if you track it, change your oil more regularly, but if Blackstone is telling me it's fine, what's the problem? This is when my car had ~100k on it, and as far as I knew, it had never had an IMS issue.
That interval is the accepted mantra in order to catch the IMS before it does real damage to your motor. Obviously this isn't a panacea, some will fail even with that interval and some will never fail no matter when the oil is changed.
It's cheap insurance for a known problem, proceed as you wish.
You can definitely handle more than you think. These cars are so simple. As long as it doesn't involve an engine-out procedure, I'm more than happy to handle it myself.
You can do 90% of the work on these cars out of a single stall garage with some jack stands.
The majority of the "enthusiasts" don't really like to get their hands dirty, and therefore must pay 300 dollars for a dealership oil change. I can do it at home for about 100 dollars.
Maroon92 wrote: The majority of the "enthusiasts" don't really like to get their hands dirty, and therefore must pay 300 dollars for a dealership oil change. I can do it at home for about 100 dollars.
This is one of the major differences between the GRM forum and most make- or model-specific forums. A surprising number of car guys won't touch anything under the hood and I do think this unfairly inflates the maintenance/repair cost estimates on certain cars.
ShadowSix wrote:Maroon92 wrote: The majority of the "enthusiasts" don't really like to get their hands dirty, and therefore must pay 300 dollars for a dealership oil change. I can do it at home for about 100 dollars.This is one of the major differences between the GRM forum and most make- or model-specific forums. A surprising number of car guys won't touch anything under the hood and I do think this unfairly inflates the maintenance/repair cost estimates on certain cars.
This is why I like asking questions around these parts. My assumption was what you guys are saying. I have jack stands and don't mind getting my hands dirty
Let me resurface this thread. I'm just kicking around CL and came across something of interest. Now that the weather is cooling down, prime convertible buying season is coming. For my weekend toy, I want a car I can get in and drive. I'll do oil, plugs, pads, but more complicated projects will get farmed out so that I'm not without my car for weeks or months trying to do it myself. The reality of my life is I don't have the time or skills to handle major projects. That's why I've always avoided German cars.
But as I was browsing, I came across this... http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/4681026026.html It definitely caught my attention. I love my Miatas, and very well may just get another one. But I'd love a convertible with a bit more power. This car is at the very top of my buy in range, but just was curious what the ownership experience would be for a well kept example. Does the S have the same IMS issues as the non-S? Is the failure rate really high on them?
In reply to Klayfish:
Yes, the S has the same issue with the IMS bearing as the non-S models. Failure rate is supposedly like 5%.
On a unrelated note, I like that seller's garage!
In reply to Klayfish:
Great find! I may have to check that car out ;)
Steve, want to buy my NB in the spring? I'll be selling it then, likely for a Boxster S. Or an air cooled targa. Or a Mondial. Depends on when the MG sells too.
Sonic wrote: Steve, want to buy my NB in the spring? I'll be selling it then, likely for a Boxster S. Or an air cooled targa. Or a Mondial. Depends on when the MG sells too.
Maybe...but I'm kicking around ideas beyond Miata. As big a fan of them as I am, I'd love a convertible with just a bit more power. Sometimes it sucks balls to have to floor it to merge on a highway. Plus the NA/NB certainly can highway cruise, but it's not their speciality. About 40 miles of my 50 mile each way commute is highway. I really do like Boxsters, or Z3/4s, just don't want to get into a money pit. This one just looked real clean..and Kara likes them too.
Klayfish wrote: I really do like Boxsters, or Z3/4s, just don't want to get into a money pit.
All cars are money pits, but the makes you named are deeper ones. Something will always break - nature of the beast. When it does, it will cost you more to fix than most other makes. Goes with the territory.
wspohn wrote: All cars are money pits, but the makes you named are deeper ones.
Right...there are money pits and then there are money craters. There are no crystal balls, but I want to do what I can to avoid falling off a cliff...
People who buy a new Cadillac Escalade or BMW 7 Series will lose about $35,000 in depreciation before their factory warranty expires. Sure a used Boxster could pop its engine, but which is the real money pit?
My friend has a Cayman and it's an expensive car to keep
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