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April 28, 2010 8:57 p.m. toad9977 New Reader

So I've been noticing that my breaks have been getting worse for awhile, but being a poor college stoodent, I've been putting off buying new ones until my drinking funds were stable. That was all fine and dandy until I had to slam on the brakes today and continued going at the same rate as before I applied them. So needless to say the beer fund is going to be tapped and and I'm going to be getting some new breaks. I've got the TurnerMotorsport slotted rotors on the way, but i"m held up on the pads. I like the Hawk HPS Street pads, but ideally I would like to find some a little cheaper, so I was also looking at the Satisfied GranSport 6 pads from tirerack and the Mintex Xtreme pads from Bavarian Auto and the Axxis Ultimate Street pads. Anyone have any experience with any of these pads? They all seem fine from the descriptions, but I don't know how well they will be for dd and the occasional auto-x event. Its a BMW 318is so its not gunna go too fast, but I still like to be able to stop. THanks in advance for the help!

Dan
April 29, 2010 5:46 a.m. Tommy Suddard SonDork

You're in college?

Btw, your problem sounds like a rusted out brakeline, not subpar rotors and pads.
April 29, 2010 7:37 a.m. bludroptop SuperDork

Be nice Tommy, creative spelling is nothing new here.

I agree with you however, the OP's description sounds more like a hydraulic issue than hardware.

On a budget, I would skip the slotted rotors in favor of brembo blanks for $35-40 ea. I bought the HPS pads from one of the well-known online retailers/spam generators for under $150. Are they better than the cheapos from NAPA at half the price? Yes. Are they twice as good? Not even close.
April 29, 2010 8:23 a.m. stuart in mn SuperDork

OEM quality rotors should be plenty for your purposes and would be less expensive, but it sounds like you already have the slotted rotors ordered. I've had good luck with Axxis Metalmaster pads myself. A good source for parts is http://www.blunttech.com/ , he knows e30s pretty well and can give you advice on your choices.
April 29, 2010 8:28 a.m. nderwater Reader

It doesn't sound like you're having a pads/rotors issue. When's the last time you checked your brake fluid level? Ever had it bled or changed?
April 29, 2010 9:53 a.m. amg_rx7 Reader

I like the Axxis Ultimates. Perhaps a little more than the HPS.
April 29, 2010 9:56 a.m. toad9977 New Reader

Well I haven't officially ordered anything yet, but everything is a credit card number away from being there. Brake fluid level is fine, but they're going to get bled anyway. I guess what i am hearing is just stick with OEM stuff? I guess I just budgeted myself $200 and the rotors with the pads with the exception of the Hawks fit in there nicely. BTW, I am almost metal on metal, so I'm going to need the brakes anyway. And stuart in mn, its an e36, but that site does seem pretty nice. Thanks for the help!
April 29, 2010 9:59 a.m. Giant Purple Snorklewacker SuperDork

The stock pads are more than enough bite for a street aplication. Look for the puddle under the car. You likely blew out a dry rotted $8 rubber brake line. The ones that go from the body to the trailing arms in the rear are easy to overlook and difficult to access. Murphy's law applied says those are probably it.
April 29, 2010 9:59 a.m. 914Driver SuperDork

Toad said:
That was all fine and dandy until I had to slam on the brakes today and continued going at the same rate as before I applied them

Did the pedal go to the floor? Did it feel squishy? Does it feel different now than it did yesterday? Does it feel differently than on another car? Once the car was stopped, did the brakes mysteriously heal and now they're fine?

Dan
April 29, 2010 10:08 a.m. toad9977 New Reader

So that satement may have been a tad exaggerated, but not too far off. All of the brake lines are fine and there's no puddle of fluid under my car. It felt like really bad brake fade or that they were all glazed over to be honest. There was stopping power there, I just had to push a little more than I really wanted to for an everyday type situation. The pedal resistance was what I've been experiencing for the last 1 1/2 years since I ahve had it.
April 29, 2010 10:22 a.m. stuart in mn SuperDork

I'm not so familiar with the e36, but could that be a sign of the brake booster beginning to fail?
April 29, 2010 10:32 a.m. mad_machine SuperDork

what model of BMW is it? If you have a 318 anything, you have smaller rotors and calipers in the front. A cheap upgrade is to move to the vented brakes from the 328.

I run the Hawk HPS and the ATE star slotted rotors.. and while I LOVE the HPS.. I hate those stupid rotors. they hold water when it rains and the first half second of braking after a long time without using them.. and you have no brakes untl the water gets squeazed out or boiled off.

Definatly replace the fluid and bleed the brakes. Brake fluid will suck water right out of the air.. even through your brake lines, causing corrosion and fade.

Also, most BMW have a 'check brake" light that comes on when the pads get too low.. is your's on?
April 29, 2010 11:09 a.m. bludroptop SuperDork

e36 brakes are all the same, except the M3. 318, 325, 328 - no difference. I've also seen enough of the brake pad wear sensors zip-tied to the strut housing so as not to trust them.

$200 is doable for all four corners - pads and rotors - if you shop around and skip the racey stuff.
April 29, 2010 11:10 a.m. Chris_V SuperDork

While stock pads do a great job of stopping, I'm going to recommend an upgrade to something like the Akebono Euro ceramic pads. I've had them on my E38 for a couple years now, and just put a set on the Range Rover. Great feel, and no overheat/fade issues, even on these heavy cars. Best part? No brake dust coated wheels anymore. Even when the car hasn't been washed in a couple months (like in the winter) this is the dirtiest thewheels get:

Anyone who has spent time around BMWs understands what I'm talking about.
April 29, 2010 11:46 a.m. z31maniac Dork

bludroptop wrote:

e36 brakes are all the same, except the M3. 318, 325, 328 - no difference. I've also seen enough of the brake pad wear sensors zip-tied to the strut housing so as not to trust them.

$200 is doable for all four corners - pads and rotors - if you shop around and skip the racey stuff.

I thought the Ti's and 4 cyl Z's had non-vented rotors front and rear?

He never said it was a Ti, just throwing that out there.
April 29, 2010 12:18 p.m. bludroptop SuperDork

I stand corrected. Ti models did have solid rotors until mid-'98. Don't know about the Z cars, I never really think of them as e36, although I guess technically they are.

Not to go off topic, but there is a 2.3 Z3 sitting in a driveway three doors from my house, and it hasn't moved in about 6 months. The last thing I need is another car, but I'm starting to get tempted to low-ball the owner - so I may get more familiar with them soon!
April 29, 2010 4:20 p.m. mad_machine SuperDork

I always liked the z3....
Oct. 12, 2010 12:12 a.m. Kompff09 New Reader

I also use Akebono for my Benz C350. Bought the performance part when the used car dealership told me that the ones in place needs replacement. Since I had it, never had a problem.
Oct. 12, 2010 5:34 a.m. jrw1621 SuperDork

Zombie Canoe!!!!
Brought back from the dead of 6 months ago.

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