Taiden
Taiden HalfDork
7/16/11 2:12 p.m.

I would like to discuss methods of breaking in clutches. There are a few things that come to mind

1) what exactly does 'breaking in' a clutch look like? 500 mile break in period, does that just mean driving easy for that amount of time? Because if the clutch doesn't slip, it shouldn't matter if you hammer on it, if you aren't slamming it into gear

2) how do people with track only cars break in clutches? Is this better or worse than the street 'break in period'?

parker
parker New Reader
7/16/11 3:21 p.m.

I never heard of needing to break in a clutch.

triumph5
triumph5 Dork
7/16/11 3:32 p.m.

For the first 100 miles, or less in stop and go, it's simply a matter of the parts "getting to know each other". That is, work in harmony. So, no, no, do not 8k and dump the clutch. The plate springs will NOT like that, neither will the clutch disc.

Take it easy on take offs, no abnormal clutch slippage (no hill holding with clutch and gas) and and let the parts seat.

Racing clutches are built for abuse right out of the box. stouter, beefier, and different clutch face material. The install and 8k dump, yeah, for Nitro-class cars with 5 disc clutches. Yours, nope.

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork
7/16/11 3:41 p.m.

Organic clutches usually don't need a break-in period.

Metal-faced, yes.

oldeskewltoy
oldeskewltoy Reader
7/16/11 5:38 p.m.

who told you it needs breaking in? I'm with parker on this, if the flywheel is correct, clean, with a properly machined surface, there should be no need for a break in period. Now, on the other hand if they didn't machine the flywheel, then some time may be needed for the friction disc to "find its seat" by wearing pre-maturely to meet the irregular surface of the un-machined flywheel

Taiden
Taiden HalfDork
7/16/11 8:16 p.m.

http://www.competitionclutch.com/store/dsp_part_detail.php?vinvid=1182

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