Broken bleeder screw, advice needed.

I'm finally getting started on the Saab, and already hit my first snag. Both rear bleeders are wrung off. I've got enough material for vice grips to grab, but I don't want to turn too hard and break them off flush. I'm afraid an ez out is just going to make them expand and make matters worse. I'm sure it's happened to someone else, so any advice would be appreciated.

Hammer a 12 point socket on the stub, pick a size that forms pretty good splines (the screws are dead soft). You could also try tapping the area of the casting around the screw with a hammer.

Here's what I would try:

1. Take calipers off car (you'll have better access and wont be tempted to shortcut something) put in vice.
2. Spray with PB blaster, wait 5-10 mins. Then do it again. And one more time for good luck.
3. Get a torch and heat the crap out of the caliper around the bleeder.
4. Place vice grips, and rock them back and forth. A little clockwise, a little counter, etc.

You might get lucky. If not, you already have the calipers off the car to try and drill and tap bleed holes (or, my recommendation would be to just replace the entire caliper at that point).

If they are available, order calipers. The screws broke off because they are seized. By the time you are done, the holes will be buggered.

I'm as good as anyone at getting rusty fasteners out, and bleeders are the worst for some reason.

In reply to Robbie:

That's assuming the brake line fitting isn't also rusted like berk into the caliper, like the the bleeder screw.

Also, be aware- you take the caliper off now, and fail in your bleeder screw quest, you are unable to bleed, and parked until the new calipers show up.

Robbie's plan is the best non-destructive solution so try that first. If that fails, and the problem is that they're rounded off, try cutting a nice deep slot into them with a Dremel and then turning them with a flathead screwdriver.

Robbie wrote: Here's what I would try: 1. Take calipers off car (you'll have better access and wont be tempted to shortcut something) put in vice. 2. Spray with PB blaster, wait 5-10 mins. Then do it again. And one more time for good luck. 3. Get a torch and heat the crap out of the caliper around the bleeder. 4. Place vice grips, and rock them back and forth. A little clockwise, a little counter, etc. You might get lucky. If not, you already have the calipers off the car to try and drill and tap bleed holes (or, my recommendation would be to just replace the entire caliper at that point).

+2

Take your time and heat/soak. It took years for the bleeders to become one w/caliper. If the car is on a hoist, you could do it on the car. If not, as stated, it might better to remove them. However, as stated, the brake lines are also corroded and need time to be removed.

Brake lines are usually a much bigger bolt, and certainly take much more torque before twisting in half. I generally haven't had issues with the brake line at the caliper. Now, that can be different since you normally need to pull the other end of the soft brake line so it can spin, and the soft to hard line connections can be awful.

If it's a hard line going into the caliper at the rear like my Saab, you should be fine with PB and a flare nut wrench. Or use a vice grip carefully.

Left-handed drill bits can really help out in a situation like this.

Last year I had a minor rant about spending an hour trying to EZ out a broken off bleeder on my Suburban. It was pointed out to me that a new caliper was about twenty bucks.

Your Saab is probably more expensive than that but sometimes a part is telling you it's time to just replace them.

I've had lots of fun dealing with broken off bleeders, I swear some of these were designed to shear off after a single use. I've had luck carefully drilling out the bleeder a bit and just hammering in a small torx screw bit in and using that as an extractor, the larger you can fit in the better. Be careful if you are drilling into it though, too deep and you'll ruin the sealing ability of a replacement bleeder. If everything fails you can always just drill them out to 3/8", tap it for 3/8" NPT and screw these in - Willwood 220-0627 Brake Bleeder, I've used these on the rear of my Subaru and they solved my problems.

When everything is said and done, don't overtighten the bleeders, they don't need a lot of torque to seal properly and you'll thank yourself next time (and curse whoever screwed you over this time).

Adam

Get a bleeder repair kit from the local parts store. They are just like the Willwood item. If you break an EZ-out off in the bleeder-and chances are very good you will-the caliper will be worthless.

When adding heat to a caliper you will find that it I easy to damage the rubber seals both in the caliper and the dust seals.

just get some different calipers... remans probably aren't that expensive..

i'll go to heroic efforts to save some parts, but brake calipers are wear items and i won't put much effort into them unless the car absolutely has to be on the road that night and no stores are open.

Thanks for the advice, They are soaking right now. If I can't get them out this weekend, I'll order new calipers.

for future refrence.. when dealing with screws like this that are softer than the surrounding metal/aluminum in steel, always give it a tug in the tighten direction to help break the rusted/crusted threads loose, dissimilar metal corrosion is a pain and this is what they teach in A&P school.it works most of the time.

Also good blows on the top of the bleeder. Same concept. If you do use heat, only heat the caliper. Also, you can use spray air upside down. It will come out cold and shock it.

To get bleeders and brake lines loose, heat as much as you dare, touch it with a piece of bees wax. Heat again, and touch with wax again. the fitting should come apart like it is new. The wax won't destroy the rubber parts like petroleum products will.