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As you can see, actually filling or checking this thing is almost impossible. Thanks amc....
Any way to cheaply and easily convert to a remote reservoir? Must retain the current master as it sits. Nothing else is same size, etc. Tpok me all day to get the factory hydraulic clutch setup in place too. Id rather not screw with going to something else.
The cheapest and easiest way, and probably the only safe and smart way, would be to get a fitting tapped into the hole at the bottom of the cast-in reservoir, and run a steel braided line to a remote reservoir higher up.
Or you could get a cheap USB borescope/endoscope and a funnel going into a long thin tube...
What about an npt to barb fitting drilled into a hole in the factory cap, and a factory remote reservoir from something? Or am i borrowing trouble?
I'm thinking the factory cap wouldn't hold fluid. Usually they're built to leak to the outside if overfilled.
Looks like a generic Girling or Lockheed master. (The output being nearer to the pushrod than the reservoir is a giveaway)
Meaning, there's probably four or five different Wilwood/similar masters that will work just fine. Most clutch masters I have seen were .625, which is commonly available. As are .700, .750, .825, etc. (Or 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 13/16, if you prefer, since the design dates back to when everything was done in fractional inches)
First image I found happened to be of a .625 master.
it IS stamped girling. so is the slave.
wow. how the hell do you know this stuff, knurled?
Dusterbd13 wrote:
it IS stamped girling. so is the slave.
wow. how the hell do you know this stuff, knurled?
He was over here tonight, he knows many things. Pretty sure he was here last night too but my days all run together
I don't know how I know, i just know, you know?
Also I have a small collection of those Wilwoods. I have one of 'em tucked between the passenger seat and tunnel on one of my RX-7s for the handbrake. I learned the hard way (like most people do) that this style of master has the input and output reversed compared to what you might expect. It works by having a cup on the end that blocks the main piston from pushing fluid up the reservoir, instead of having the main piston cross over an equalization port. Slightly more fiddly than (current) common practice, but them Brits didn't trust running a seal over a hole in the 1950s. It's still more or less the standard design for race parts.
(And that is why my nice neat brake line plumbing in the car turned into an ugly mess of oddly shaped lines and unions. Sigh)
Can you get a set of calipers into the ID of the cast in reservoir? Might be able to tap it for a big NPT reducer.
Inlet port oughta be 3AN or 4AN thread. Find a AN adapter w/ AN hose or barb to remote reservoir.
Don't go NPT unless last resort.
I did this back in '89 before my internet days so today oughta be easy. See Pegasus.
Yep, NPT fittings don't have an actual seal in them, they rely on sealant tape to keep the fluid in. AN fittings have a flared part that will seal on its own, the thread just holds it together.
Extend clutch pedal above pivot and mount existing clutch master under dash, with pushrod attached to Pedal extension. Win.
